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Khornukopia

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Posts posted by Khornukopia

  1. On 10/16/2023 at 9:34 PM, jbohlscheid said:

    A repair question with regard to the Klipsch Forte ll passive radiator.

     

    A section of the high density foam on the external part of the passive radiator is separating from the basket/spider. It appears to be lifting the cone material up. The portion that is separating is about a 3-4" arch and lifting up about 1/8". The cone is in good shape. Can I give it a shot of glue under the separation and clamp it down or is this the sign of a general failure and requiring a full replacement (not what I want to do)?

    Thanks, JCBOHL

     

    23 hours ago, Khornukopia said:

    @jbohlscheid   Yes you can brush on a thin layer of glue and apply pressure. Place some wax or parchment paper between the cone and the form fitting clamp, so the clamp doesn't stick to any glue.

     

    23 hours ago, OO1 said:

      the foam is deteriorating ,  best to replace it 

     

     

    @jbohlscheid  I do not see the picture showing the area of your concern. Can you attach a photo to this thread, so I might see and form a better informed observation?

  2. On 9/20/2023 at 10:28 AM, Mighty Favog said:

    Lots of other projects have crept up till I can dive into this again.

    I can relate to that situation. Let us know when you eventually solve the puzzle.

  3. On 9/3/2023 at 5:19 PM, RickD said:

    plug my McIntosh directly into the woofer input and give it a spin.

    Any progress?

     

    My next question is not about the problem discussed in this thread, but when you replaced your AK-2 network with the aftermarket x-over network, how did you bypass the components inside the woofer chamber, between the binding posts and the woofer?

  4. 3 hours ago, RKH said:

    finding time to enjoy music once again.  Bought walnut K-Horns after visiting Hope facility in 1978 and still have them and love them.

    Nice that you kept them all these years. I would loosen and re-tighten the screws holding the speaker wires to the crossover board. Also give the K-55-V midrange driver a gentle twist to make sure it is snug against the horn gasket. Then I would play some music sort of loud, as a test, to make sure everything sounds clear and trouble-free at normal volumes.

  5. On 6/4/2023 at 7:05 AM, IndyHT80 said:

    Yeah I mostly got it flat (in-room but on my desired house curve. I may try dialing it in further on my XILICA once I get the extra XLR cables. My only complaint is I wish I could bring up the air frequencies details 11khz and up without also bringing up the ringing/breakup from around 12-15khz.

    I still wonder if your complaint may be caused by the room acoustics. Is it possible to aim a speaker at an open doorway, turn up the music and listen from the other room, for comparison?

    • Like 1
  6. 2 hours ago, IndyHT80 said:

    Greetings, I do not have the Jubilee but the KI-396 (3 across the front for home theater) with the K-510 horn with mumps. I am mostly satisfied with the B&C DE-75 driver (nice midrange) but have had to attenuate the breakup above 11khz quite a bit with a shelf of around 7 db which lowers the “air” details.
     

    Would the Jubilee Celestion driver work well in the K-510 horn? I’d probably still want it crossed over around 1000 hz. I prefer passive crossovers for simplicity as I have limited space and patience to bother with bi-amping 3 LCRs. 
     

    If the driver would work in that k-510 horn, would anyone know who could custom build the crossover network for it?

     

    Thanks!

     

    Yes, the Celestion could work well on your existing horn, but I wonder if your situation might be caused by room acoustics. You mentioned using a 7db shelf filter. Can you instead try a narrow PEQ filter?

    • Like 1
  7. On 3/2/2023 at 9:50 AM, rplace said:

    I used a Niles DSP-1 to basically do what you are after for 10+ years with zero issue.

     

    It is good for me to learn from your experience with that device. I can't find a schematic during a quick search, but I do see pictures of somebody's switch that has resistors inside the case. The switching devices with resistors appear to make for a safe design.

    • Like 1
  8. On 2/28/2023 at 1:18 PM, rivlinm said:

    I'd like to use the DPS-1 to amp switch to the Fisher.

    A switch between your tube amp and the speakers is not recommended. An unintended momentary open circuit while powered is bad for tubes. Safer to buy a second pair of speakers, if you have the funds and the space.

    • Like 1
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