Paducah Home Theater

Yeah I got a cute little $8,000 JVC projector being delivered around lunch time. I apparently offended a coworker by calling my own tv "dinky", not knowing he had the same thing.

Mmmm... kick drums.

I didn't think they were getting quite that low but I saw something like a 55" Vision 4K the other day, pretty good sized, for like $1,200-$1,300. It looked amazing with still pictures. When the image moved, it went downhill pretty quick though. The Samsung and Sony's that cost 3-6 times as much were MUCH smoother. Otherwise, my jaw was dropped.

There is a good chart and explanation somewhere but if I remember correctly, supposedly 1 db of loss is acceptable over a fairly long span, and for example if you're talking about 14 gauge, you're good with that up to about 25 feet before you hit that threshold. Seems like all of the recommendations for wire sizes is based on keeping you less than the 1 db of loss threshold given a particular distance.

So basically an unnamed high end place recently told me to run an extension cord from your projector to your rack. Except, that would involve some kind of weird stuff if it is ceiling mounted, which he recommended, which unless it was butt-ugly, could only be possible by lacing an extension cord through your wall and whatnot. I've ran this by master electricians and they weren't exactly on board with it. Getting power to it generally speaking is no problem, but I don't quite get running an extension cord through the wall and whatnot. Any thoughts? What is this guy talking about? IF he was worried about surge protection alone seems like whole-house surge protection solutions would be recommended. Seems like a dedicated circuit with an outlet in the ceiling would be nice but according to the guy I talked to that's not the optimal way to do it.

A-stock finishes shouldn't be advertised at a significantly discounted or "best offer" option for speakers alone. This combination should throw up a red flag. I overlooked the "B-stock" comment in the OP.

Apparently normal rules doesn't apply to "B" stock... For the record this is in fact a typical shady deal on eBay. Basically sellers will get an unauthorized back door deal with a distributor, sell them on eBay, but scratch out the serial number so it can't be traced back to the distributor. Multiple sellers are in trouble for doing this with projectors, I've heard talk of lawsuits. On some of them the only way to get a warranty is to pay a third party to provide you one. Pretty much any significantly priced item in the A/V world has a shady dealer trying to do this. The OP didn't really mention a particular seller but generally speaking, if you've done your homework then I'm sure you're good but yeah it's quite common.

Biggest thing is the black woven fiberglass driver vs. the copper driver that matches the Reference drivers. Supposedly it has been totally re-eingineered but I can't directly compare the two right this second so I can't comment on that. All I know is that two R-sw115's shake the hell out of my house.

Anybody "asking for offers" online is not an authorized dealer BTW, period, the details doesn't matter. I'd bet good money that the serial number has been scratched out. It's basically a sketchy gray market distributor scheme and the warranty does not apply. I'd highly recommend sticking with authorized dealers.

It would probably be hard to beat a Denon AVR-X5200W. I'm a Marantz fan due to the clean face and warm sound so I'd choose an SR-7009, actually I did, but the flagship Denon receivers are supposedly built in such a way that rivals a separates setup elsewhere. Atmos and Audessey XT32 on top of that.

It probably depends on the material. We can talk about subjective sound all day and you'll still question it but there's no way you're going to lose anything or make anything get worse. Not possible. Nothing to lose, superior sound on certain material to gain. Worst case, on lots of material there probably won't be a huge difference. Visually though, no doubt, wow factor will be there as compared to the plastic baffle of the 62, just no comparison between real wood and plastic, not to mention it perfectly matches the RF-7ii. My theater is a dark bat cave so I usually don't pay much attention to the finish but I do have a window, and if I walk in there during the day where they are lit up... wow, that real wood veneer looks killer. Makes me stop, do a double take, and stare, every time. Yes, my opinion... and everybody else's who have seen both.

Watch "through the never" and crank up One and Master Of Puppets. Super tight kick drums coming through the center. Something that may surprise some people is that a good chunk of the bass drum sound actually comes through the tweeter. 2-4khz gives kick drums a real nice snap, makes it sound super tight. The RC-64 sounds great with this kind of material.

The rest of the girls in the room seem to have no idea what's going on. At least they can keep time.

Might be easier to set the thing on the ground kinda like this. If you were to put one above the screen, the top of the bookshelf would be close to whatever that round thing is on the wall and the tweeter will be pretty far away from the screen.

Back in the early 90's in high school I used to get free industrial scrap, so basically when I started playing with car audio I had things going on like my RCA cables being made out of token ring networking cable that was going to be thrown away. Well, my power cables were 00 gauge welding cable, and my speaker wire was 8 gauge in some instances, which was especially dumb since it wasn't stranded. It was a bit overkill, but, it was free.

I've heard of guys using 10 gauge for absolutely everything, even very short distances, but that don't mean it helps anything. Any time anybody thinks that electrical current works like a water hose and a small wire is choking off the flow, pick up a massive 2,000 watt subwoofer and look at the size of the wire from the terminal to the voice coil.

I was specifically talking about cymbals. RF-7ii's and the RC-64 has a lower and fuller tone than THX on cymbals and hi-hats when directly comparing the same material, aka. playing Metallica through them at high volumes. Comparatively, yeah the THX is a little tinny here, cymbal crashes seem to have a higher pitch and not as much lower depth. This is the only time I have noticed this. Yes they are very flat which is great for speech. "the clone wars" is awesome on them. I really like them but do think the high end reference stuff has a much better rock growl. I think the RC-64 exaggerates the lower frequencies of male voices sometimes. That's the only thing I don't like. Crossing over at 80 hz helps with this a ton but it still happens sometimes. THX sounds better in this regard, more realistic. Not for the 60-80 hz part of kick drums as compared to your wall of six 15's, no. But, the attack of the beater on the skin does in fact sound really nice and super tight. The thud from the subs follows the attack and it is anchored to the screen. I'm not talking about two channel music, I'm talking about concert blu rays like the Metallica "through the never" movie that I watch 2-3 times a week. Yeah, drums and lots of other stuff comes through the center, and yeah, the RC-64 sounds nice when it does.

The 64 handles bass so well that Audessey on my system tried to cross it over at 40 hz. You're not losing any meat.

I can directly compare the RC-64 with a KL-650-THX and in my opinion the RC-64 is in fact in a different league on the midbass. Hell it takes three KL-650's just to hold my RC-64 up, I'm using them as speaker stands temporarily. THX actually sounds better in terms of being more realistic on male voices but it can't hang with the 64 on drums and bass guitar. Music in general sounds better on the 64 due to warmth and more realistic (less tinny) cymbals, but on certain instruments it goes way beyond that, on some material the 64 is very strong while the sound is barely there with the THX, it's a pretty big difference. Kick drums are anchored to my screen which was never possible with the THX. With that in mind, I can't imagine that the RC-62 would be significantly better than the THX in this regard. All of them are nice but the 64 is pretty amazing.

Seems like retrofitting would be even worse, that's why I thought the EluneVision motorized would be nice. Just mount the center and pull this thing down in front of it. Done. Trim out the ends with big RF-7ii's.

This makes a ton more sense to me. I don't want to hide my RF-7ii's but would like the center to be behind the screen plus don't want to go through the construction phase all over again. Seems like the perfect solution. Plus that would hide where my electrician screwed up and put a big ugly hardwired smoke detector in. Thought they were $1,100-$1,500 but looks like a little more than that. http://www.amazon.com/EluneVision-Reference-AudioWeave-Tab-Tensioned-Motorized/dp/B00CJI86QQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415921117&sr=1-1&keywords=EluneVision+Reference+audioweave "The only screen on the market that will preserve the mid-range and high-range frequencies" interesting.

The finish is the same real wood, so everything matches. The tweeter is what I think is the same 1.75" driver as the RF-7ii. Most importantly though, for concert blu-rays, this center has super tight midbass when you crank it. I've never heard a center that sounds so good on drums and bass, it anchors much more than voices to the screen really well, just really detailed and tight. It won't cave your chest in or anything but the attack on drums just sounds so sweet. The 62 may be voice matched enough to work but I don't think it can keep up with the 64 in this regard.

Just out of curiosity, has anybody ever ran an RF-7ii as a center? I know what to do when building a house from scratch, at least NOW I do, but I don't know how to retrofit an AT screen when carpet is already down and trim is already installed. I'm not sure about the depth either, some of these screen manufacturers say put the speakers 12" back from the fabric, then add 12-16" for the speaker itself, assuming it is front ported or you're plugging a rear port off. You're losing 2-3' in the room if you do this. Considering I'm going short ways right now which is 15', that's a lot. Could switch the room around but then I have a door to deal with. Would be nice to go back and rebuild my house with certain things in mind but at this point that would be hard. Do speakers really need that much clearance behind the screen? I can understand subs but for speech I can't see why this much is needed. As for the RF-7ii's, I think they look badass so I'd have a hard time covering the left and right's up but hiding a center would be nice.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/ele/4759085953.html

Also I don't like seeing reflections off of a nice shiny RC-64ii that is directly under the screen, it's distracting.