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Paducah Home Theater

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  1. I was just wondering what you thought when you saw that Klipsch had the C-308ASWi priced at about $1500 at least for awhile.
  2. My personal opinion is that direct radiating subs could work but those are a little colored for the K horns. I'd try to get something that is known to be super tight / accurate / neutral. A lot of folks would describe such subs as "fast" although that term makes me cringe so you didn't hear it from me. Although, for LFE purposes, the SPL-150 could work just fine, ideally two of them. I'd never use that combination for music with a crossover in place myself. You'd be surprised at how much 20-40 hz LFE goodness can come out of two of those subs considering their price.
  3. Even if your mains are flat to 10 hz it would still typically help. The problem is that unless you have a high end pre/pro that can reroute the LFE channel to your mains, you're just throwing all that content away, which is very significant.
  4. And yeah Marantz is really slow right now. Some things take months. Strangely enough Denon is significantly easier to get generally speaking, which is strange since they share a lot of parts. So I don't know. We basically have to just order a bunch of stuff and hope it comes in some day. We have no idea when or what order or if the entire order will ship or just a partial, or maybe two entire orders at the same time.... maybe we'll even get a huge order then our card will be preauthorized for two other big orders and max out our card with 6 digits worth of receivers... nobody knows. It all happens. Luckily we have a direct account and aren't scared of large orders. All the small dealers who have been going through distribution and has been counting on their distributor having a few of every model in stock is probably having a real hard time right now, I'm not sure how they're making it. I do have an MM8077 in stock, haven't seen the 5 channels in awhile.
  5. Apples to oranges. All their stuff is refurbished.
  6. If budget isn't a big issue, for anybody looking to do this in the future, I would look at the IC-650-T. I've actually sold more of the 8" 800's but the dispersion angles are a little narrow on those, these 650's are all you need for the home. It has a transformer for 70V applications but you can bypass it for use with normal amps. Only problem is that they cost significantly more than typical street price of the 5800's, cost is the big draw on those. Anyway, these are ported and Roy designed that horn, there is a patent on it. It's going to be the best match. https://www.klipsch.com/pro/distributed-audio#ic-650-t
  7. An article worth checking out is below. Note that some parameters can wildly change over the course of 80 hours on some woofers, others not so much. Also worth noting is that this is a 40 hz sine wave which will be more aggressive than simply playing material at normal volumes. Also, these are just normal 5-6" woofers. If you get a large 18" or something with dual spiders and a very stiff suspension, that's going to be much worse. You can't break in a stiff 18" sub with normal music at normal listening levels in 15 minutes, doesn't work that way, those spiders needs to be spanked for quite awhile. https://www.gr-research.com/burn-in-myths.html
  8. I've had Forte III's sustaining 110 db with only a 45 watt half sized Marantz receiver, playing bass boosted Eminem. So yeah they thump. But the Eminem songs I was playing was pretty low, most of his stuff is low 30 hz, Killshot for example is 27 hz. The problem is that passive radiators work like ports, and if we consider what ports do, well they stop doing much of anything once you get to an octave above the tuning frequency. I suspect that by the time you get to about 70 hz they're just not doing much. That's not to say that they don't produce bass or that they can't thump but rock music in particularly with the kick drums is all about the punchy 60-80 hz area and I'm just saying that I don't think the radiator is doing quite as much as people think it is once you get up that high. Even without a rear firing radiator you still ideally need a wall behind you for it to sound punchy though. It's not ideal either way.
  9. There's a few thoughts of his that I don't always buy in to. For example never wanting nicer speaker cables than zip / lamp cord. He always used lamp cord or the equivalent it seems. Lamp cord nowadays is 18 gauge but I've done research on the subject and it seems that speaker wire in the 60's was often closer to 24 gauge, you could pay extra for the larger stuff and get more like 20 gauge. Even at 18 gauge, all it takes is 13 foot of the stuff for you to be into the danger zone of less than 20 on the effective damping factor when you're dealing with some of the impedance dips that Klipsch speakers have. I can't even use a calculator to enter a smaller gauge, at this point nobody seriously considers using smaller than 18 gauge but if you could use those figures obviously it would be significantly worse. I'm sorry but I'll stick with my 12-14 gauge flexible pure copper wire with a nice jacket, either CL2 in-wall rating or with a nice braid. PWK would probably label such things as total BS. Sorry but it is what it is.
  10. I wouldn't speculate on such a thing but REW has a way that you can generate frequencies even down to the 10th of a Hz, and I had four sealed 18's I was able to figure out exactly how low I can hear. Takes a lot of guess work and speculation out when you can step through it and not have to worry about whether the equipment can actually produce the frequencies in question. Like I said though, 15 hz is very faint. Personally I wouldn't call 18 hz an infrasonic frequency.
  11. You may not be able to hear 18 hz. I definitely can. 15 hz is more debatable. 16 not an issue. 15, I can make it out but it's very faint. 14, all bass is gone, it's just air moving or stuff in the room shaking if I hear anything. 18 hz is completely audible.
  12. Sorry but this just isn't correct. I've done plenty of tests and have even measured them outside. If multiple units are not doing anything below 30 hz then you've got something going on in your room Actually I've even done the Barbie Doll test. Played an 18 hz sine wave and it was moving so much air that I got my daughter's Barbie Dolls and lined them up for a hair trick video. Was epic.
  13. From what I hear, tube amps as a whole really weren't all that great during that time period. William Zane Johnson founded Audio Research and reintroduced tubes into the high end world in 1970 but it was mostly him against the world at first. The rest of the community didn't catch on until the 80's and there was somewhat of a tube revolution / renaissance at that point. On the flip side, the early solid state amps weren't all that great either, the early transistors being made of germanium, being unreliable, and producing a bunch of odd order harmonic distortion, which is why Johnson did what he did. Basically everything kinda sucked back then.
  14. I've taken four identical 18" Ultimax woofers, used two for six months, then built a new box that used four. I A/B'ed the old ones vs. the new ones in an identical box. Down low there wasn't really any perceivable difference, a 35 hz thud sounded about the same on either. Where I could tell the difference was in faint upper harmonics such as on bass guitar, just was not the same at all. The old ones were crystal clear with lots of micro-details. The new ones sounded like you threw a wet blanket over them comparatively.
  15. Cones shouldn't flex much. It's all about the spiders. The spider contributes to about 70% of a woofer's compliance according to the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. It's often coated with a layer of epoxy. Basically as the cloth moves you create little micro-tears which loosens it up. Just as a visual, consider buying a new pair of jeans, what those feel like vs. ones that are 10 years old, and those aren't even really stiff like new spiders are, yet you can still tell a big difference.
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