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Paducah Home Theater

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Paducah Home Theater last won the day on May 14 2021

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  1. I used a single PB-2000 with La Scala's with better results than I expected. Two is always better though. More headroom, less distortion, smooths out room modes a little. Biggest problem with this statement though is that unless you have a steep slope crossover then you'll still get frequencies coming through the subs that are significantly higher than 50 hz even if that's what you set the crossover to.
  2. If you're going into a preamp, I mean most preamps have a good DAC, feeding it a digital signal and letting the preamp decode it is ideal. This setup will do much better than a typical streamer. If you must use the analog output of the laptop, be aware that even a $70 USB DAC does much better than what's typically included on a laptop. Just doesn't cost that much extra to up your game.
  3. World's first. Similar to teak but more golden and has more character.
  4. Do not get bookshelves with a horn and put them 3" from your head, it will suck in all kinds of different ways. Get the RP-502S II or if you want it to be the most correct for Atmos with direct radiating monopole speakers, get the RP-500SA II and run it in surround mode.
  5. B-black. There's also W-white and R-raw (birch). I forget what it stands for but the SMA-II versions basically tell you that they have flypoints for hanging them from a ceiling. Some older versions without this designation don't have the flypoints.
  6. People think the bass is bloated like on Cerwin Vegas or something. That's not the case at all. If you twist the bass knob and give them some juice they can thump. But basic frequency response without there being extenuating circumstances such as EQ or SBIR shenanigans just isn't going to be bass heavy.
  7. It can be done cleanly. For those saying get a streamer, I mean, a streamer is just a stripped down computer with a decent DAC. Only bad thing is that most laptops come with a cheap DAC built in. At least get a nice sound car or get an external DAC. Cyrus even made a tiny little USB key DAC that was only like $69 that would be much better than what most stock laptops have.
  8. I mean, the baffle situation is real, however, it's not the tweeter that is affected. it's all based on the wavelength of what is being reproduced. Having a horn loaded tweeter / compression driver sitting in an 11.5" wide cabinet that's 4' tall... it's going to be crossed over higher than the frequency of where the response starts to flatten out. What happens is that with lower frequencies, the longer wavelength allows frequencies to wrap around and go behind the cabinet, so you get some loss. Manufacturers account for this by having the natural output of the woofers higher. By extending the baffle, or adding a full baffle wall like in higher end home theater applications, you get a bump in the bass / midbass / lower midrange because that loss isn't the same. Your response ends up being totally different. All this is very well known and nothing new. However doing this while specifically concentrating on the tweeter is backwards.
  9. Although this thread probably isn't the appropriate place, drivers / woofers made for home use can be used in cars just fine. Several top cars in terms of sound quality are running Acoustic Elegance which is high quality home woofers. Cars that want super low response are running Stereo Integrity which is known for home theater. JTR actually uses drivers made by Fi Car Audio. The guy that runs the data-bass site and has tested tons of home subs picked out his favorite for home use and it was apparently the Rockford Fosgate 19". So it's all very interchangeable. Really the biggest difference as a blanket statement is that car subs for maximum SPL are often made for rattling your teeth out around 36" in a ported box while being fed massive amounts of power, and not much else.
  10. What happens in my opinion is that the high level inputs allows higher frequencies through more. The sense of a "fast" subwoofer actually comes from the midrange, it's not sub-bass. The people I've talked to in the past were comparing a high level full range signal, to a low level signal that had been ran through a crossover. IF you do that then also have a crossover on the subwoofer, the crossover slope will be steeper than intended, and it's going to sound bloated and sluggish, with none of the faint upper harmonics which makes a subwoofer sound more musical. I've never bought one but that's what I suspect is happening.
  11. Yeah I'm curious about this. You actually have to search pretty hard to find material where voice bleed into the subwoofers with an 80 hz crossover. With movies about the only one I could find was where the little girl was talking to Don Luis in Colombiana in the opening scene. The vast majority of voices ought to never even touch a sub. So I'm curious as to how a subwoofer helps with voices that much.
  12. What's interesting to me is that people fall for that marketing gimmick. You can actually make any subwoofer accept high level inputs in a superior manner by investing in a Jensen transformer. I can't confirm but multiple people have said that all REL is doing is using a resistor. If this method were that much better you'd hear tons of people singing the praises about those transformers. But you don't. You've probably never heard it mentioned a single time. What you do hear is people singing the praises of REL's cheap resistor setup or whatever it is due to their marketing. Not to mention that this method is worthless in a home theater setup. It doesn't make any sense.
  13. There was actually a pretty good scientific study on this. They found that if they injected music with harmonic distortion on the bass, at the lowest frequencies it literally took around 100% harmonic distortion before people thought something wasn't quite right. Intermodulation distortion is arguably a different story but a decent amount of harmonic distortion largely centered on the second harmonic is just going to blend in. It's interesting how people will argue against that and worry about harmonic distortion on the bass but then turn around and purposely get tube amps that often have 2-10% harmonic distortion on the second harmonic and think that it's pleasing to the ear. Biggest problem I've heard as it pertains to this issue with subs is that cheaper subs that have cabinets that are too small will often ring and sound colored plus some have limiters that aren't linear in terms of frequency response. The end result is that when you spank them you can get distortion artifacts and unnatural response that is well above 100 hz which is very localizeable and sounds like crap.
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