RoboKlipsch
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Posts posted by RoboKlipsch
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Having an idea what you want to build and WHY helps a lot.
youre searching for overseas drivers when u know full well at avs there are 21s 24s and 18s with builds capable of doing ANYTHING
im rarily critical and try to stay out of your threads but i cant tell if you just want attention? you have multiple threads here and at avs and have gotten some of the best minds from both to respond. you are losing credibility changing your mind constantly....imo
you have no idea what you want...if u did u would say i want xxxx and you would have it
i challenge you to articulate what exactly youre trying to do
nobody can tell and im surprised youre still being taken seriously
i apologize if this seems rude but ive never seen anything quite like this...a half dozen threads and not one with a goal
am i out of line suggesting this?
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its true the 81s can be placed further back, but if you have 3 or 4" behind the rp160ms i prefer them for better sound quality.
in-wall speakers are also a clean option to consider.
no matter which u choose they need to be far enough forward that the tweeter horn is free of reflections from the bookshelf. it will severely compromise the sound if they are back so much that the sound reflects off the top or sides. it depends how close the sides or shelf top are but likely 1 or 2 inches from flush...if a high shelf above and pointed away from the sides perhaps 3 or 4 inches back.
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In most cases bookshelves are just placed on the stands. It would completely depend upon the individual and their parameters. In a kids and pet free environment no stands would be fine.
Those RP160ms are bricks though so I would at a minimum strap them down if not find a way to attach them. There are sticky connectors you can use like a putty that stick them down well, or if made for the speaker, holes might line up. I used velcro for a friends setup and it worked amazingly. I stuck a big set of strips onto the stand, plugged them into their counterparts, removed the sticky tape and then pressed the speaker down in the right place and then we tested it by pulling the speaker off. It has worked great.
Mine are on wall mounts, and also safety strapped for good measure. I dont want one person or pet hurt by a falling speaker nor do I want to damage the speaker or furniture/floor.
There are many other options, look around and pick what u like. It only needs to support the weight and be relatively stable. Some have clamps or connector screws.
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The rps have a plinth, or wood base that is screwed into the speaker itself.. i do not know how/if u might be able to make them work with the base too. The screws do come out in case u dont want to use the base so . it's possible, but I have no idea how the might line up. I looked at mine, there are 4 screws and they look to be about 2 inches from each edge of thr base.
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they have a big footprint so ones with a large shelf are good for stability, as are ones you can fill as mentioned above.
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13 minutes ago, daddyo said:
Robo - very interesting and thought-provoking comments. I was aware that new space is going to be a challenge to deal with since it is very open, high ceilings, hard floors, and various architectural features to deal with. I had gone as far as considering some sort of area rug in the listening zone but not to think about how the positioning of furniture might impact the audio. Obvious sound panels are not going to be approved by the "higher authority" but drapes, chairs, rugs, and/or sofas might get passes. Good inputs - thanks.
My pleasure to share the ideas. Any Klipsch center will allow you to turn it up plenty. Im more concerned you get that good setup to begin with as it will make a big difference and make you a lot happier. If i can help further just let me know. 👍
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I agree that ideally a matching lcr is best. When u have only 8" under a tv though of course that can be a showstopper.
Im going to say something different than most. I can point u to diy centers or klipsch ones that will do a great job. But the real issue people have with center channels is how they are setup in a room. They often have a lot of interference from wall bounce where center clarity isnt good no matter what. This leads a lot of people to think if they get a really big center it will fix the issue.
At 73 im not going to lecture about room treatments...instead i will say that how you place your furniture in the room will dramatically impact the center sound. Say you have a few plush chairs...placed strategically they will make any center sound better by absorbing some of the wall bounce. Same for a carpet between u and the center channel. Sound panels are ideal at first reflection points but furniture can do a nice job instead i.e. chairs mentioned before.
I have heard all of the klipsch consumer centers. Although you want to pick the center first, i do think it would be better to consider the front 3....whether they match or not....together.
Many members here think the rp250c isnt the best. They believe a 450c or rc64 (earlier series) are better. I disagree and would argue they all are excellent. Setup matters more.
In a well setup or treated room i can make any center sound really good. Understanding that interference from the room....walls, floor and even ceiling is the key to creating the clarity u want.
The best advice I have is to look up on google room treatment or acoustic treatment 101 and read about it. Im again, not saying put up sound panels...instead learn how to best setup your room within the constraints you and you significant other have.
So my shorter version is this - all the Klipsch centers are good. It is the rooms they go into that need changing/enhancement. I watch people go througha lot of centers thinking oh yeah that one has 2 8s or 4 6s....must be better. Maybe...maybe not. What you want for the front 3 combined matters more.
People with rf7s like rc64s because it more or less matches in capability and timber, not just due to it being the biggest one.
Right now i have an rp250c with rp160ms, and would not upgrade to any other, because it closely matches. The only change i would make is to switch it out with another rp160m.
I hope this helps.
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Bump for the gorgeous picture. Truly beautiful speakers gl with the sale ☺
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DTS used to be and still has more detail in its coding but in the newer uncompressed formats it is a very small difference now.
So in earlier versions DTS every time imo, in todays true formats they are quite similar ime.
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how u run audyssey has a massive impact on the sound. you can spend 100s or 1000s on equipment when some time spent getting the autocal to do better will have a better result. just my 2c. the 3300 is no slouch (i have a similar x4000) and i have a 3808 so i know what u mean. and i have external amps so i have compared. imo your issue is not amp related.
is dynamic eq on?
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used rf52s or 62s....i know from experience. u want that extension down into the 30s thats the cheapway to get almost identical to the 82s without the huge cabinets. honestly 52s will crush the rb81s or 61s imo.
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i had r28fs and then a pair of rf52s and the 52s killed the r28fs in quality
size is important but a 15 in a main is no match for a sub
my rp160s are matched with sealed subs capable of under 10hz trust me it blows away your old bloated beauties 😀
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I have a hard time thinking at those levels....say 10watts max, the issue is the amp. Either Denon should sound great imo. Did u run Audyssey and if so do u like it better with or without? So often these issues are the room, not the equipment. It could be as subtle as how u run your Audyssey setup that u (we all) may be able to help you get a far better result before moving towards new equipment.
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THKs idea imo is superior to your current setup and really any set of floorstanders from Klipsch. A used pair of RF7s can be found at times for 1k and that would be superior in sound quality to any of these options but would have low end extension that stops around 30hz....vs a sub which will dig much deeper.
I have rp160ms with subs and have firsthand experience....its awesome.
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I personally find the rp160ms to be better than either. I dont think a bookshelf by itself can match an rf82 without subs no matter which bookshelf u choose, the low end extension and double 8inch woofer are superior when used without subs. If u are seeking that punchy solid sound with music i dont think you can fully replicate it. However, ive had rf52s, which you can find quite cheap, or rf62s and i think you would then have a winner that would be much more manageable sizewise and still get excellent low end extension and punch, they are part of the same series as the 82s.
Used u can find either of those rfs for the same or less than rb81s
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I think how far away you sit and how loud you listen are deciding factors.
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9 hours ago, MetropolisLakeOutfitters said:
I don't think so, there's a big difference between my Marantz receiver with 140 watts and my Parasound Halo A23 with 150 watts. I don't think that receivers like impedance dips very much. A nice amp opens them up more.
Excellent point. Its not my fault the rf7s were designed with that dip ☺
Im interested to hear if the 3s addressed this. My diysg speakers dont have a dip like that, there was a lengthy discussion about how many 8ohm speakers arent truly 8 and i hadnt considered that in this case. Nice point MLO
I thought him having a receiver with say 150watts and even a 2nd with similar maybe it wouldnt make much difference until headroom was higher but I stand corrected. Always happy to learn additional facets of design and actual use...thank you. 👍
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Your pc will load a driver for the inukedsp. Then when u connect it will ask u if u want to connect, and in the software has a tab where u can tell it to connect.
I have 5 inukes....wait 6, i got another recently for a giant llt sub i will build☺
I blame ddj for the inukes and cec for being right u cant build just one sub...
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Imo u need an amp with clean power of 300watts or more to make a significant difference. Since u already ran an extra avr as an external i wouldn't think it worth it to switch for less than 2x power.
I actually use inukedsps (cheap class D) to externally amp my diy fronts and mbms. They work very well at 8ohms with a flat response. But fan noise and s/n ratio of the amp itself are issues (which i resolved and of course would share) but....with a 99db sensitive rf7, similar to my diy at 97...i would recommend u go with very clean power.
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listen ur a big guy you can shoulder press those tubas 😀
go the extra mile and separate them and try again. the larger the sweet spot the better
at worst they go back together at best its another evolutionary step, now that u touched the monolith 👨🚀
ive said many times ive put in prob 200hrs in my basement theater not bc im smart or good but simply on a quest to have it be perfect
because u have an open room the decay of the low end bass under 30 will be quick already whuch is often a stumbling block
i.e. u would need 50 bass traps in the concrete basement to speed the decay of 20 to 60hz
but upstairs with a roll off around 20 or 25 its likely perfect.
because u have open wall on one side...even though corner loading helps i would tend to say the bass will become better in the room placing them on the open side. in a corner wall they get a ton of reenforcement which they dont need unless u run out of spl. on the other side the bass escapes into the kitchen. by putting one on the front wall on that side and one on the back wall, you create 2 point sources that provide the most bass ouput precisely where its the least by structural design. it will bounce of the wall side with plenty of reflection and power.....so ime at a certain distance left of center looking forward....the positioning will be perfect. just a few thoughts from my own experiences.
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18 minutes ago, digregorioj said:
RoboKlipsch
Thanks for the response. I am finding that the format of the concert DVD's play a huge role in my problem. With my old receiver they all had voice on the center channel and now only certain ones do. I watched David Gillmour last night and it sounded amazing. However Santa Super Natural sounded goods during certain parts but other parts the center channel got lost
that should def be the recordings. some are 2 channel and some are 4 channel without a center too, your processor also may have the ability to convert to other formats.
to know if your system works a movie dvd in 5.1 will do the trick. after that, you are dealing with the fact that music recordings esp old ones have few standards and are all recorded differently. if u watched the more recent DG that was 5.1 and your system works fine.
all that said....calibrating the channels using an spl meter or your ear, with the avr test tones could help get you a better baseline to listen to everything
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42 minutes ago, digregorioj said:
I spent another two hours last night and can't get the system dialed in. For some reason music DVD's sound like complete crap - too much bass and no voice from the center channel. I could have sworn using the concert setting on my old receiver produced voice from the center speaker. The only way to get the voice is to use PLII MS or Multi ST on the receiver and even then it doesn't wow me. When playing concert DVD's do most receivers produce sound from the center channel. I am beginning to think the new receiver I bought just doesn't have the sound fields I am use to. Any help would be greatly appreciated
i had not heard of this system so i read a review. it sounds like there are two sets of inputs for the main speakers l and r. if this is the case try the 2nd set of inputs and then try to recalibrate. since u have a receiver it may be mismatching with the different inputs and you cant get them to match because the other set of inputs are what will send the proper signal to the mains.
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I had a bose acoustimass system for over 20 years and was able to originally buy it through a rep at cost and managed to sell it on ebay 20yrs later for half what i paid.
ive spent the last few years educating myself through immense amounts of reading, listening, learning, asking questions and trial and error and diy building. its amazing what 1000 page threads about theory, theater construction, acoustics, design and physics can teach you with enough interest.
my simple conclusion about bose has always been this -- the vast majority of people dont have the time interest or money to get into what a good room should sound like. they go to a theater and hear what sounds very impressive -- flat consistent response with fast decay and very loud peak volumes.
bose acoustimass, in an average living room where someone (I) simply placed the speakers and sub, have no room treatment and no real understanding of a full sound spectrum...it sounds like a mini theater at home. for all the wrong reasons, but it does. the lack of low end, high end and certain midbass frequencies caused the decay when watching a movie to be very fast, simulating a highly treated room, albeit a really, really bad one once u know what a good one sounds like. it was true genius on boses part, they made a cheap poor design but did it in a fashion that an untrained ear thought was much like a theater. they never posted frequency response graphs and resisted those comparisons instead pushing their sales pitch and it worked, and still does. it is, imo garbage, but to me and many others, it was a cool simulation that we didnt really understand, but enjoyed up until the point when something clicked and told us to try something better, tg in my case Klipsch which happens to be a brillant set of designs.
Vasubandu's Tower of Subwoofer Build
in Subwoofers
Posted
thanks cec i was a bit hesitant to post that but felt it was in his best interest. vanu seems a very nice guy.
thats some beyond pro veneer work, can hardly see the sides the pattern consistency is so good 👍
i see a big vent like for a tht is that what was built?
you are one of the resources i referred to...invaluable free advice from people like u...i know i have benefited
klipsch forum is lucky to have you as a mod 👏