Maximus89

Thanks i didn't think of that. I have had the cheaper model Evolve-II-4k for years, but that model only has multichannel analog outputs. The model you listed would work with a digital power amp, but how exactly would i get it to work with my Tube preamp if it has no inputs? I would need to output from my Tube pre to an input, no? I've never thought about that. Will a preamp work with no outputs connected and only an input-digital power amp to that input device? Either way, i believe i would run into the same issue that Hifi Rose tech support says. I can NOT both digital out and use analog input simultaneously. I'd have to switch input to one or the other.

Audio Tekne TP-8201 from Japan, i have the fully transformer coupled matching power amp up on ebay and audiomart if only b/c it's just too damn hot in Tx and quad matched power tubes aren't cheap for how often i double my system for both hifi and regular tv/movie watching.

just 2 ch

I'm considering moving from tube amps and external tube dac for a more simple solution such as a Digital AMP that takes only digital spif input(no analog inputs). Peachtree Gan1 for example. In order to double as hifi/home theater, i would need a streamer with HDMI video connection to use my tv streaming. There are plenty of options including HiFi Rose. Streamers have analog inputs as well as outputs. I was curious if i wanted to keep some tube sound, would my transformer coupled tube preamp w/ tvc work outputting into one of the Streamers analog inputs while digitally outputting spdif out to the digital power amp? Or i would only be able to set the streamer to digital out and not be able to simultaneously use the input to get tube benefits?

further info, my tube preamp has 1amp fuse the isolation transformer says 8amp fuse

I purchased a vintage 100v Japanese tube preamp and after weighing the options(voltage converter, bucking transformer, variac), i decided with a vintage General Radio W10MT3A variac/variable transformer. Assuming the variac works, i am wondering if i can use it connected to my Isolation transformer that is able to connect 600va max. The variac allows 10amp and 2 amp selection. How does this translate to power usage to know if my Isolation Transformer can handle it along with my 50wpc McIntosh MC250, and a tube dac, and a 50watt vintage subwoofer all connected to the same isolation transformer?

That's how i started down this road. Wanted a balanced to single ended transformer to connect to the mc250, ended up sticking with single ended with the transformer in between and it makes me feel i can downsize my dac to a 1k or under and i'd enjoy the sound due to the transformer anyway

Yeah i've heard about that effect so that's why i posed the question. Yet, when it's 2:1 and the recessed mid range, if i turn it up too loud, it's just too loud but the recessed mids are still recessed. Louder doesn't give me the effect of balanced frequency. I suppose it just comes down to what i perceive as better for me and as is, that would be louder. Maybe i'll get an even different effect if i try the 8ohm tap on the mac with my 6ohm speakers and change the transformer 2:1 or 1:2

I've added a 2:1 CD Line Transformer to my multibit pcm63p-k dac output and it did wonders for giving me a richer, more musical sound. Dare i say it's analog tape like, or at the very least it is mitigating the damage the opamps do to the natural sound reproduction and removing HF digital noise. Adding an isolation transformer for clean power took the same effect another notch up. Using the dac direct to a serviced and modified McIntosh MC250. Fidelizer with JRiver 64bit volume control with lossless music files. The thing is, the natural sound character of my dac is still there with it's recessed midrange. Used to be fatiguing with exaggerated HF and LF. I don't mind the recessed mid now that the HF is clean, but wouldn't mind the mids to come forward just a touch more. The Line transformer can be connected in reverse for 1:2 step up. I did so, and i was impressed that the midrange came alive and came forward, while retaining the level of the HF and LF so i feel its more balanced. Or is that perception only? The maker of the transformer said connecting it in reverse would just make it louder and unnatural. It's definitely louder and i have to adjust volume accordingly. So my question: Is the transformer stepping up only making the exact same signal louder? Why am i perceiving it as more balanced sounding? Wouldn't louder still have the recessed midrange and just make the HF and LF too loud and give me fatigue? It isn't. Could it be giving the dac more voltage for the midrange to come forward?

I downsized to bookshelf speakers and i was dreaming about finding a pair of these rt-10's or rt-12s, but do they really have a high amp failure rate? No repairs available? I bought a 1970 Janis W-1 Subwoofer and the separate Interphase 1 amplifier/crossover just to try at a cheap price. I was shocked to find it sounds very nice and musical. Slot loaded. Blends way better than what i had before. I sometimes can't tell if it's on until i bypass on the amp/crossover and i realize what it's doing. Huge and heavy with a 15'' driver that's supposedly cheap. Looks like a nice piece of furniture. No issues other than some wear and tear. Not going to blow you away for HT, though. Amazing how so many modern subs with built in amps fail so quickly. I guess i'll just stick with this Janis sub.

Cherry

I've got to open up some funds from my hobby spending's this year and also weighing selling the CF-4's but too hard to get upgrade money back in any sale so parting seems more logical for me with minimal losses. I've got some Dean built crossovers with mills resistors and V-Cap ODAM's, looking for around parts cost in return plus your stock CF-4 v.1 crossover sent in return. $820 + your stock CF-4 v.1 crossover in return. Dean built these earlier this year. Outstanding build quality as he always does. I see he's not doing this kind of work anymore either, so here's a chance you may never get again. The V-Cap ODAMS are now my favorite capacitors after my experience with them. *Will NOT take version 2 or version 3 crossover. Must confirm date of your version 1 serial + i need to look at the values of your crossover parts coming to me in the sale+trade. *To specify. The entire crossover with wires and back panel with banana plugs will be swapped so if you have upgraded/replaced banana posts you would like to keep, i'd appreciate it if you put some replacements on first. No need to swap the bi-amp bridges. *The price is with the crossover shipped to you on me, your stock crossover shipped to me on you. PM for any questions.

How strange. They do retail. I was looking for one of these several years ago, but since it was from 2010 or earlier, the internal dac ddc was limited to 24/96. Zero mention of the internal dac being updated in their brochures and odd how it went away for a while and now back for retail under the same name so if they updated anything internally, someone could buy the one from 2010 for the new price without knowing. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

These still retail? So they updated the internal dacs? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I think the epic cf3 and cf4 are the only ones that used poly caps, at least as far as the non pro or home theater lineup went? Not sure about cf1 and cf2 but I believe they used different drivers so I would guess no poly caps. I need to open up my kv4 and check it too. I've never been happy with the kv4, so I bet it doesn't and needs a recap. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

These do have 1 pair electrolytic per board but the others are polypropylene caps and should last. You don't need to change them if you don't want to. Sonicaps will sound better, though, than those stock bennic/dayton audio poly caps. The crossovers however are known for loose solder joints. My inductor was completely loose and dangling. So you can also just replace the lytic and make sure all the solder is redone and everything held in place. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Haha not even close even with a nice deal from Cory on a b stock. I prefer 2 ways anyway unless its khorns on a long wall. Those sure are purdy! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

My cf3 v1 are naked with white stuff all over it and my cf4 v1 have screen protection. The kv4 has screen protection also. No idea why the cf3s didn't get it Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Off the top of my head it's the 227th day of 94. Thats august of 94 like mine so v.1 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Leaking fluid? Oh no, is it getting a case of the mumps?

Yeah I won't diss class D, but all those guys care about are measurements. Some of the best measuring stuff sounded the worst for me. All the ess Sabre dacs I've heard included. Some of the worst measuring stuff has an incredible cult following for the musicality but these guys won't give it a chance because of poor measurements. Forget about anything with tubes! Cables sounding different? The measurements prove otherwise! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

It's probably the better musical choice, but with the Texas heat and humidity fast approaching, i just cant' bear the thought of my *** and back sticking to my leather seat when i want to relax and relieve stress. I've decided on the recapped mc250!

OH baby that wood grain is beautiful!

Yall think damping factor is the most important thing for the CF4 and 3? I sold my p360 w/ 200wpc and high damping factor. Was telling myself too much power i dont need, but those last few nights with a new IC in the set up had me in love with the system. Either way, it sold as i needed extra funds and now i have to find a more budget friendly amp. 2 amps in consideration. A McIntosh MC250 recapped. 50, some say conservative and more like 75 wpc but very, very low damping factor of 38 at 8ohm and dips into 15 at 3ohm and SNR 90db or a Class A amp with only 20wpc but 120 damping factor, SNR 110db Class A negatives: -The vintage 90s Class A a few hundred dollars more than the vintage mac and not recapped -The Class A consumes 110w more idle, but both same power consumption at rated output. As far as class A goes, it looks like it may not run as hot as typically found in Class A amps which is a huge bonus for me. My p360 was 100w idle and 600 at rated output and it would warm up my room. MC250 negatives: -low damping factor -ugly and rusted and pitted all over. i dont see any way to clean it without sacrificing the black lettering. Could hurt resale value if it doesn't get my drivers moving.

You guys really all about that bass, huh? I wonder what Roy uses with his CF-4s? He likes bass fishing.