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Posts posted by Maximus89

  1. 39 minutes ago, Shiva said:

    As far as the CF4's and the Focal system playing the same song goes.  Through my Sennheiser HD580's,, the Focal system might have a smidge more clarity,  but the Epics still sound spectacular, 👍 in my humble opinion.   

    Don't know the recording quality either. Two completely different rooms as well. The recording of the cf-4 came out with a lot of sibilance for me while the focal recording was smoother. Again, most likely due to a phone recording. I have always liked Focal, though.

    The CF-4s really do everything so well. I do wish the crossover wasn't as complicated so we could put higher quality inductors and easier to match capacitor values and there were suitable driver replacements so we fans and owners could keep these going for another 30 to 40 years and beyond. Mostly if i have any negatives, it would be 1. They're big ugly coffins. 2. They are too low and the cheesy little feet were terrible. 3. The horn is thin and cheap and I do think the tweeter is a bit too bright/forward on the CF-4, but i solved that with some very expensive Aquaplas applied to my diaphragms. Damped the metal dome and softened and smoothed the sound, but currently testing it on the CF-3s which i already found a bit more balanced than the CF-4 in terms of the horn loudness. Now just waiting eagerly for Dean to finish up my crossovers so i can put it all together! I also applied sound deadner to the horns and woofer baskets and some bracing. 


    • Like 2
  2. Here is what i am considering. http://sparkler-audio.com/portfolio/products_en.html

    There's the little integrated 'Ether' with 7watts. Then there's a physically larger 25wpc stereo amp with volume control and 2 small 25wpc mono amps and a separate preamp offered. The CD and DAC are interesting and i might even want that Tuner just because of how beautiful it is. 

    Kazutoshi Tsukahara used to work with 47 Laboratory. 


    These are all very simple designs and i don't know how they will pair with the not so simple DC-91 dac which i plan to have extensive mods done at a later date. I've also found several preamps i have tried actually hold the DC-91 back and the dac ends up sounding far superior directly to an amp(the c280v matches well but runs too warm to hot and i don't need phono which is adding extra heat), but the DC-91 starts to reduce bits as you go lower in volume... and so an amp with volume directly to the DC-91 for only digital sources might be an option. The negative to that approach is no remote control which i have missed so much since i sold my SS Macs and the Sparkler Audio remotes are so retro and super cool looking.


    I also can't tell you what Class amps they are? Seems something i would know before purchasing. 


    I'm also considering a vintage Mcintosh MC250 w/ 50wpc. I have experience with ss Macs and they ran very cool to the touch. I haven't heard the vintage first solid state amps they built, but apparently they're great.

    • Like 1
  3. Do yall think 7watts to 25 watts solid state is enough for a CF-4?

    I love my vintage Accuphase gear, but it all gets very hot in my small room. Looking to get a barely warm to the touch small amp that has a warm or romantic sound to it. Probably asking a lot since i know low watt class A amps run very hot. I think my p360 runs in class a to a certain point? Also my c280v preamp is class A and gets hot. My DC-91 gets warm on the vent, but i can live with that.


  4. On 3/2/2022 at 7:00 AM, KlipschKLF said:

    I wouldn’t sell my Cherry CF-4 ver 1 for less than $1,800.

    Neither would i, as i've got nearly that much in mods alone

  5. Dean originally built these for me and i sold the Khorns and sold these networks to indyhawg-sold as i wanted to downsize to more practical sized speakers with plans to move and didn't believe i could take the khorns with me-i got CF-4v.1 and while i love them as well, selling the khorns and Deans crossovers are a decision i regret to this day.  I can confirm this is a great deal and they sound amazing. Very black background and smoothed out and dialed back that forward midrange just right for my needs and in my particular room, i had incredible deep and tight low end. Great caps. I had some of my best listening experiences ever with that combo on a long wall run- i did have my tweeter out on top of the top hat-physically aligned with the mid range driver in a vertical position. 



    • Like 2
  6. Same experience here. I always feel happy about not needing a sub until i bring one in and you go "oh. so that's full range" and you can't go back.  I have my RSW-15 at 60hz with my CF-4 and CF-3s though. That RSW-15 is old now, but Klipsch sure got it right with that model. The only time i didn't use it was with KHorns except for movies.  I didn't have the RSW-15s when i had my 4 split pro La Scalas so i lived with the limited low end, but that mid bass was oh so snappy and fast. I think i liked those pro woofers better for the mid bass even though they didn't go as low.

    I'd sure love to go back to KHorns or La Scalas(or Jubescalas!) with that KPT-1502 or 1802.


    I chose 60hz because i also watch movies in 2.1. Would a 40hz crossover be too low for movies? I wouldn't want to run these woofers too hard. I don't use an AVR, i have the subs directly into my "for sub system" outputs on my Accuphase C-280v

    • Like 3
    What do they work on? People are telling me they won't let anyone ship anything to them.
    If you're willing to pay and want decent turn around time, you should contact Michael Crites. If you get in a jam, you can also PM me if you want them rebuilt.
    Dean! You're the first person I looked for but couldn't find you. I like the new name! I'm already familiar with your work on my klipschorns so ill send you a PM here soon

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  8. I would  call JEM or PM [mention=78875]JEM Performance[/mention] to ask him if he can do the work for you .
      as is ,  the crossover can be repaired with a hot glue gun ,  and a Soldering iron -
    I did way back when and they wouldn't work on the cf4

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    • Like 1
  9. Looks simple - just reheat the solder under the board while you stuff the flying L3 lead back where it belongs.  Grip the wire with a hemostat or needle nose pliers w/rubber bands to avoud blisters on your fingers!  Then reflow the PC board with fresh solder.
    No soldering experience here. Rather pay someone than learn

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  10. I've got a loose rear baffle that was held together with clamps. Both speakers. I'm just now getting around to a little project of titebond II for the rear baffle and then add a bit of bracing. In doing so, i just discovered my crossover looking like this with one of the red parts hanging and loose to the touch. Yet, my speaker was working.  What's up with this?


    Any experienced volunteers for repair and recap? I know the Klipsch approved crossover guy wouldn't work on the CF-4, so what are my options? I'd rather come to you guys first instead of a local repair tech i've never met. He's expensive and slow, but heard he's good.


    I have backup CF-3 v.1 so i can ship the crossovers to a forum member with enough free time to make a little money :)

    PM me if you don't want Roy to see you volunteer to molest his first child, maybe it'll come back with a case of the mumps...


    I'm pretty sure that the YM3436 cannot handle 96 kHz or 192 kHz.
    No need for high resolution. I mentioned that before I knew what the output meant- thinking i could send the signal out to another dac which would do high res while having the signal pass through the dc-91. Im good with Redbook. Theres good measuring cheap delta sigma dsd dacs if I want a 2nd dsd dac. Or rather 3rd as I have a multichannel hdmi dac as well.

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  12. Appreciate it! Well this dac is 30 years old and sounds better than 2 different Audio Note Dacs, a modwright tube modded oppo and an ares ii and several other $1k range dacs i had in here. I was expecting an r2r ladder dac type of sound like the Ares II which i found addictive, but it's a very clean modern sound. Crazy revealing, but a bit lean on the mid bass it's only drawback and bad recordings sound bad unlike through a NOS ladder dac where everything sounds analog and lush imo. They retain their value so i'll likely try a dsd capable NOS r2r DAC next or decide to send it to a tech to recap and modify it-here's a quote containing some of what he'd do

    "I certainly agree with you on the sound of a stock or "conventionally upgraded" Accuphase DC-91. For god knows what reason, other than it was common practice at the time, each of the 32 pcm63 chips has it's own feedback i/v opamp, then into a common buffer, then into a HORRIBLE GIC filter, then output buffer and balanced driver amp. With single common passive i/v resistor per 16 dacs per channel, then my no-feedback voltage gain + line driver stages, plus way larger caps around each of the dacs(over 500 nice Nichicon caps I had to replace with larger nice Nichicon caps, exhausting), the resulting sound is absolutely spectacular, without even changing the ancient YM3436 input receiver or d/f arrangement."

  13. Just now, Edgar said:


    Not all standalone DACs have multiple inputs.


    As for sonic benefits of the DC-91, if you like its sound quality then you won't be buying a new standalone DAC anyway. I didn't read the article closely, but it appeared to me that the only changes that the DC-91 can make to the digital signal are to change gain and polarity.

    Thanks man. I must have poor reading comprehension since i read that very review before posting and it all went over my head. I can see it if i got myself a 2nd dac for DSD, but that's usually DOP through toslink and spidf. Or let's say i got a tube dac for a different flavor that also played my high res 24/96 and 24/192 music specifically and the DC-91 offers a connection no other modern dac has - ST glass optical-which i am using. In that case, i would get the benefits of the apparently too-expensive-to-produce ST Glass Optical connection benefit with another dac despite it's being output in toslink/spidf? If i did this, the DC-91 would NOT be analog out to anything-the new dac would be analog out to a preamp, correct?

    Final question. The DC-91 can technically be used direct to power amp-wouldn't it benefit the sound outputting to another dac if the volume control is the DC-91?

  14. 2 minutes ago, Edgar said:

    The DC-91 has 13 digital inputs. It can be used as a source selector, so whichever of those 13 inputs you choose is passed-through to the two digital outputs. That way, if you ever get tired of the DC-91 DAC section, you can buy a new standalone DAC and use the DC-91 to select the digital data stream to send to it.


    Ah so it's a worthless option basically in most cases? The DC-91 won't pass through any of it's sonic benefits to the next dac? The next dac would just have it's own multiple inputs so this would only be cool if some form of the audio signal was passing through the DC-91 improving the quality of the new DAC. 

  15. I have had had this vintage redbook limited resolution DAC for a month now and never questioned what the toslink and spidf OUT of my dac would be used for. In a sterophile review, this was a quote about the OUT: "Two 24-bit digital outputs are also provided to maintain compatibility with the next generation of digital components."


    I'm still quite confused on what it is.  
    Everything goes IN to the dac which is analog out to the preamp so i can't come up with any way the dac would output it's digital signal received from a transport. Am i overthinking this? Help me out here


  16. I looked at your profile and if you are running 4 LSs in a Home Theater I would consider upgrading to a HDMI AVR. Fwiw, I've had my Denon AVR-4311ci for 10 years and let the Sony 4K player decode the higher res material (no Atmos though). {Edit Note: Isn't the Marantz SR7007 a HDMI AVR?}
    I dont have the la scalas anymore. If I did, I would have invested in 3 used decware zbox tube buffers in between the evolve analog outs and the preamp.
    The sr7007 is not currently working but it has alwyas had a bad hdmi board. The hdmi out and thr front hdmi worked. So technically I could have used the hdmi out to a switcher then switcher out to my TV. Preouts and analog outs and built in power amps of the unit stopped working. Never got around to repairing it. Since then I've had multiple mcintosh multichannel analog pres and currently use one from Accuphase. I had been looking for a Conrad Johnson MET1 multichannel tube pre but never came up. They all do good enough job with surround, but not being able to run a room correction does become a pain at times. The center kv4 always too low volume next to the cf4s. Surround takes a back seat to 2ch music so I guess I'm in the very small market those early 2000s era high end multichannel analog units were being built for.

    I had a pathos cinema x in here which was awesome for 2ch in auto bridge and surround with its tube preamp was great, but all of these analog multichannel systems have very basic manual channel trim levels.

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  17. [mention=62903]Maximus89[/mention], how did the Essence Evolve + HDMI switch work... thinking of doing the same.
    Works great. Still using it today. The switcher has only 1 problem with a long hdmi run in where it goes black for a sec and comes back.
    I also have problems with the ps5 blu ray player playing back in surround and the ps5 hbomax app. Could be a ps5 issue. I don't know. I have a separate blu ray player and all surround works on thst including Netflix, prime and vudu or plex, but it doesn't have hbomax or disney+ etc.

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  18. You can remove a back by heating it from the inside with a heat gun. I used some plastic wedge shape tile spacers to slowly separate the back from the cabinet.
    Thanks for the tip. I realllly should get on it once the clamps went on to the speakers I stopped caring how they look as long as the low end is nice and tight. I think I'm waiting for the desire and funds to open up for bracing interior, recap, higher quality internal wire, high quality banana connectors and then new veneer and paint the front baffle. Lots of work

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  19. I'm a believer that cables make a difference. I was a skeptic using all basic stock power cords and amazon basics interconnects and car speaker wire of a thicker gauge. I met a guy who wanted to hear my DAC i had for sale and i got to know him and the topic came up and he didn't push anything on me and even recommended budget cables to me that sounded good but most of his system if high end and he has a lot of very expensive stuff just sitting in his back room. So he let me borrow some Duelund DIY power cables, some high end Shunyata power cables and a few other pricey ones i don't remember. A $4k furutech power conditioner. Some $500+ interconnects. The Shunyata power cables(i tried several) all made a big jump from the standard cables. The interconnects all made an improvement. The Duelund which used silver and some other silver interconnects were all my least favorite because in my system everything i tried with silver is annoyingly sibilant for some reason and it's put me off to silver.  The $4k power conditioner compared to my old home theater panamax power conditioner with several non current limiting outlets? Didn't hear a difference. 
    Whether my system was not resolving enough to hear the difference in power conditioners, i don't know. At the time i had 3 different DACs he let me use with my McIntosh set up, an Audio Note 0.1x, an Audio Note 2.something kit?(both AN Dacs were upgraded/modded), and a ModWright Tube Modded Oppo-105. I've also had my current Accuphase set up with a Denafrips Ares II when i've used some of his interconnects, from AcroLink and another sibilant expensive silver cable and a cheaper blue jeans cable. All made a difference over a standard digital coax-with the blue jeans being good enough of a jump for me.

    I myself was using a printer cable for my USB DAC. I purchased a Supra USB cable based on reviews and it's relatively cheap. It was an obvious jump in clarity. 

    Where i land though, is in the camp of diminishing returns. The jump from basic cables to a good low budget cable is big, the jump from the good low budget cable to $500 cables? Extremely subtle and just not worth it for me. 

    Funny enough i had just spent the past few days looking at different internal speaker wire myself before i saw this topic. Duelund and Audio Note and Jupiter wire. No idea if internal speaker wire makes a difference, but i'm sure it does over the cheap wire a lot of speakers use. 

    • Like 1
  20. Pretty much wrong.  Are you a musician?
    Nope. I know a few. Seems their hearing is fine outside of the upper regions. Craig is a drummer and he has 3 front Jubilee and 2 khorn LF with k402 as surrounds. His room is whisper quiet and you can hear every detail and he had no problem hearing the things I was hearing as we described to each other the sound of each track even though I believe he's mentioned troubling hearing the high frequencies.

    I'm sure its a case by case situation since there are old guys still rocking out. Jagger must have ear drums of steel at nearly 80

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  21. This whole thread is disheartening.. I played music at rock concert volumes with my Chorus II's for quite a few years used to have people over all of the time drinking beers and listening to tunes what great times we had I just hope I didn't do too much damage along the way. My last "big" system was Chorus II with Ultra II subs in stereo and an RSW-15 in the corner for extra kicks it would literally blur your vision there was so much bass.
    You'll be alright man as long as it's comfortable. I doubt any of this is audio related. Band members that play concerts etc lose some hearing in the top end ans temporary ringing is likely but tinnitus and infections are highly likely due to some difficult to find underlying problem as said before.

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