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PerchPerkins

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About PerchPerkins

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  • Birthday 09/28/1998

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Elgin Illinois
  • Interests
    Ice Hockey, Music, building Speakers, working, and physics.
  • My System
    Klipsch KG 5.5 With Crites Titanium Tweeters, Yamaha Rx-V870 Amplifier, A $1000/pair of homemade 3-way speakers with a Morel CAT-308 tweeter, Tymphany NE123W 4" midrange, and a Tymphany NE223W 8" subwoofer. A polk Audio Surround sound with an 8" sub. Klipsch Pro Media 2.1, and a Onkyo surround amplifier that a friend gave me as a fixer upper.

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  1. also, higher Qts drivers can be used, but it is VERY important to model them in a program first. They often have smoothness issues as low as 90 Hz, and suffer from massive peaks and dips after that. This can be remedied by placing the driver "down the line", and by reducing the cross sectional area of the line, however you don't want to reduce the cross sectional area of the line by more than 1/3 of the Sd of the driver, as this reduces efficiency at higher outputs.
  2. Horn bass IS clean and articulate, and Transmission line bass is low(er) and flat(er) than you can get with a typical ported or sealed. People describe the bass as "thunderous" (assuming you have a driver with a very low Fs) this is the case. Since I will be using one with a higher Fs, that "thunderous-ness" aspect will simply mean the 45-100Hz region MIGHT be more fast and transient, qualities that I love. Combine that with the clean articulate aspect of horns, and I think you have a pretty nice combo. Problem is I don't know how these two interact.
  3. im not trying to make a subwoofer im trying to make a woofer that will play reasonably low. I don't need it down to 25Hz. My Hersey III's play down to 57 hz and they sound fantastic. a little more low end would be nice. Transmission lines are known for having a low flat frequency response, however "low" in the engineering aspect of this build is all relative. since I want to make a horn loaded woofer, the horn will limit the low end end output, so its almost WORTHLESS to use a driver with an Fs of <45 Hz (transmission line boosts the output above and below this frequency) since the horn won't so anything to frequencies this low. So I want to use a 10" pro driver with a fs of around 55-70 Hz, giving me a boost above and below those frequencies, and the boost that it gives should be within the limits of the horn, allowing the horn to then improve the efficiency of the system. I say "low" is relative because from an engineering standpoint the "low" is achieved by the coupling that the transmission line does around the Fs, extending the low end. whether my Fs is 70Hz, or 32Hz, the transmission line will allow each driver to perform "lower" and flatter than it otherwise would be able to. My goal is maximum efficiency. I want to squeeze the most out of every watt possible. Transmission liens have fantastic bass, and so to La Scalas, so. figure I may be able to combine the two principles. Problem is, I don't know how the La Scala would work with a transmission line instead of a sealed enclosure. I am planning on doing a W-bin subwoofer enclosure, since the T-line is smaller than the La Scalas sealed cabinet, giving me much more space. TLDR: If I get a low Fs subwoofer, the really low end will be wasted because the horn won't do anything. Usually subwoofers with Low Fs's that are 8-10" are not super efficient, around the 87-89 Db Range. Thats why a pro driver fits the bill. they are more efficient by design, and I can boost the low end via a transmission line to get some flat transient bass, while maintaining the efficiency of around 94-96 Db. THEN you couple it with the horn for more efficiency.
  4. Greetings all! I am in the works of designing a W-bin subwoofer that utilizes a Transmission line enclosure instead of a typical 12 or 15" sealed woofer. It would utilize a 10" professional woofer with a Fs of around 55-70Hz which would give me a tuning frequency for the T-Line at the particular FS, allowing the speaker to output bass down to 45-55 Hz with very flat response and minimal excursion. Because the T-Line is smaller than the "dog house" that the La Scala's have, I have more room for more horn so Instead of just one big horn, I have one, much longer horn folded inside which has the same footprint as a La-Scala. my question is..... How do the La Scalas output down to 50Hz? in order to do that with a horn, you need a 4.2 meter long horn and the La Scalas aren't even half that length. how are they able to do it? does the 15" woofer output so much low end that it still overpowers the horn dampening them below 50 Hz? From my understanding the horn acts as a coupler between the air and the speaker, effectively matching the impedance of the air to the impedance of the light weight cone allowing for much better transfer of speaker movement to acoustic energy and the La Scala horn won't effectively couple the impedance of the two mediums below 50Hz which has a "dampening effect" dampening effect" which reduces the efficiency as the frequency gets lower and lower below 50 Hz. So how do they achieve this feat?
  5. Greetings all! I need input on me design Being a broke college student (mechanical engineering) means that I love to build and design things and I also have no money. That said, The Klipsch La Scala and Belle models have intrigued me. recently I designed (but not built) a quarter wave transmission line enclosure for a 8" subwoofer I have (Tymphany NE225W-08). The La scales and Belle's have intrigued me so much that I decided to design a version of the Belle's that, instead of a sealed enclosure in the middle, has a transmission line enclosure. The transmission is tuned to the Fs of the speaker (free-air resonant frequency) which is 32 Hz and would give deep accurate bass down to 25 hz after this. Between the Speaker and the port of the transmission line, there is a 3" gap and two 3" openings on either side, which then tapers up to a 10" opening at the front of the speaker. Here I have a side view, and a top view of the transmission line and my version of the Belle. Does anyone here know anything regarding the design of the Belle and La Scala? is there a way I should optimize the Gap between the speaker and the back panel and the horn opening based off of the woofer I am using or will the 3" gaps be adequate? Does anyone here know about how to optimize the design of the horn design to work with a specific woofer in a Transmission line enclosure?
  6. Greetings friends! I have recently befallen a pair of 1984 Klipsch Heresy MK i, for only $280. Unfortunately the sound is....heresy! They sound very dry and it does not have enough sparkle in the top end and quite frankly, they are fatiguing to listen to. I listened to them with a 5 WPC tube amp my buddy lent me, and also my Yamaha solid state that has 100 watts per channel. Has anyone else complained about the Heresy MK i sound? What upgrades would you guys recommend? They have an electrolytic capacitor in the circuit which rent exactly known for their pleasing sonic characteristics. Any suggestions?
  7. I plan on keeping them forever. The carbon fiber vinyl wraps look cool but it may be a bit much. Im just looking for other ideas and opinions ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  8. On my last forum i Wrote about my Klipsch KG 5.5's that i acquired at a garage sale for a great bargain. I just got my Crites Titanium tweeter upgrades today and now i want to change the look of the speaker cosmetically. I have the natural Oak finish, and i was maybe thinking about doing a White carbon fiber vinyl wrap on the sides, and a black carbon fiber wrap on the front baffle. Any thoughts on this? If you guys have any other ideas, let me know, i want to make them look badass and unique.
  9. The klipsch heritage, cornwall, hersey are some that are made in america, but they have a hefty price tag.
  10. Even still i havent been able to crank it up loud enough because there is a ridiculous rattle on the left speaker. I gotta get to the bottom of that first
  11. Im just gonna do the upgraded crises crossovers, the Upgraded tweets, and there is a company that makes replacement woofers that are specifically for the KG series. I'm just gonna use their woofers since they're designed to serve as a replacement for the originals. Another guy did the same thing that I'm doing and he said they improved the sound. Theres no need for me to complicate things. I would like to move up the KG Line in the future, but I'm only 17 and i gotta catch up on my college savings and stock trading investments before i spend any more money on speakers after this project.
  12. Maybe i could even have one 10" woofer as a sub, and the other as a midrange. The only problem then is i may lose the sensitivity. Im just gonna stick with the new woofers and titanium tweets.
  13. Maybe i could buy some Klipsch Hersey horn midrange drivers off of eBay, and add it to the KG 5.5's. I could do one 10" subwoofer and cross it over at maybe 800 hz?
  14. Even still i want to improve the sound. The midrange in my opinion isn't as detailed and clear as it could be. My only point a reference are the homemade 3 way speakers i built that cost $1000 bucks a pair. The bass response is amazing and the midrange is clear and detailed as are the highs. The only downside is the need a good amount of power to drive. I want to rebuild my klipsch to have even deeper bass, better bass response, and a little more detail in the midrange. I decided that i may buy these woofers instead https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ds270-8-10-designer-series-woofer-speaker--295-432 If you look at the frequency response graph you'll notice that they have a peak in the 2k-3k hz range which should make the midrange come out a bit. The sensitivity is 1db less than the real replacement woofers, and i can play these down to 27 hz at maximum power without overdriving the driver. Any thoughts on this woofer? They look pretty sweet too. they'll be slightly too big but i'll do some diy stuff to make it work
  15. thats because the voice coil is scraping against the side of its magnetic housing thingy(i forgot what its called). When the woofer is being played normally it will stay in alignment and it shouldn't do that, its only when you push on it because the force that you are applying isn't perfectly perpendicular to the center of the driver causing it to tilt out of alignment and scrape the side.
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