Peter P.
-
Posts
1298 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Peter P.
-
-
Heck with the drivers; I'd change the insulation. That stuff looks nasty!
-
You can try contacting THIS PERSON on eBay and see if they repair your model.
There are other similar offerings on eBay. Do an eBay search for Klipsch subwoofer repair.
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, intramorph said:
You guys are having an interesting convo here. I came because my brand new SW12 is making the same POP noise only at certain frequencies and only certain movies however I found that my crossover was set to 50 on my receiver and I had it set to 100 on the sub itself. I set both to 80 now and so far that seems to have fixed it but I can't say for sure. I also lowered the gain a bit as well it was a bit too high the dial was at 1pm I dialed it back to 11 position it doesn't seem to be making the POP sounds anymore. Fingers crossed.
Keep us advised on whether your fix worked. It sounds like the woofer was bottoming out due to being over driven at a certain frequency. Since you mention it happening with movies, it was likely at very low frequencies below the typical audio content which would be roughly 35-40Hz, or in your case sound effects range. But if the crossover on your electronics was set to 50Hz I would have expected the noise you heard to be coming from your main left/right speakers rather than the subwoofer. In that instance too much low frequency information was being sent to your main speakers, over-driving the woofers. The electronic crossover is designed to limit that potential problem and hand off all that low frequency information to the subwoofer which should be able to handle it, unless as you may have found out, the subwoofer level was set too high. Let us know what happens.
-
HiFi Heaven's advice is spot-on. That device is a power resistor, used to change the output of the tweeter to a level the engineers designed for. That resistor is standing on its end. The short lead solders directly to the circuit board. The long lead does that little U-turn then goes down to the circuit board.
On the backside of the board is where the resistor is soldered to the board and its traces. If you were able to push the resistor back on to the board the soldered connections are likely cracked. Heat them up with a soldering pencil and maybe a little solder added, and you should be all set.
Should you need to replace the resistor itself, from the schematics I've seen it appears to be a 3 ohm, 5 watt resistor and it might even be printed on the side of the resistor. They are available from Parts Express, for one source.
Report back with your results.
-
13 hours ago, tragusa3 said:
@Peter P.you shamed me into it...but it needed to be done. Shelves are reworked now. I built some brackets, screwed into studs. And of all things, used a level! Hahaha
Rope is gone!
Painted the slant risers black and screwed through from the bottom of the shelf. Nothing will vibrate off.
Whoa; even I didn't expect something that classy!
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, tragusa3 said:
Picked up the Howards Beeswax today. First coat on and I'm impressed. Will let dry overnight and do a few coats over the next few days.
I'm impressed with the finish; the shine looks nothing like polyurethane or lacquer and unlike those, seems to accentuate the grain.
-
19 hours ago, Dell said:
Sorry! I took the “good” tweeter .... So I think it follows the crossover.
Now I understand. Here's what I would do-
Remove the crossover from the cabinet, and remove the tweeter; you can run the speaker without the cabinet.
Just connect the tweeter to the tweeter output of the crossover; leave the woofer out of the picture.
With the crossover out in the open, you can easily wiggle the various components and connections to determine what's bad. Tapping on the components with the handle of a screwdriver might reveal a bad capacitor, and having the components out in the open it will be easier to examine for a crack in a solder joint or a bad crimp connection.
-
1
-
-
So you put the suspected bad tweeter in the "good" cabinet and it still produces the crackle?
I'm confused as to under what arrangement the crackle is reproduced-does it follow the tweeter or the cabinet or the crossover?
-
3 hours ago, tragusa3 said:
Dang...I just got called out! You're right...I jumped in without a complete plan. Can't stand the rope. I'll look at the link to the brackets.
Tip: If you don't find something on-line, you can always go to your local iron welding shop that fabricates ornamental railings, etc.
such as THIS SHOP local to me.
You'll probably do best with a 12" bracket and if that size is hard to find, the local route would be the way to go.
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, tragusa3 said:
I'm hoping for a deep sheen, similar to the wet look when I first put the oil on. Will Johnson's do that?
That depends on the number of coats you put on. The process is pretty much the same as waxing your car except each layer does
add to the finish.
In my experience finishing my doors, the first coat did little to nothing. The third coat put a soft sheen on the wood. You could always
practice on the cabinet bottoms to see if a number of coats gives you the results you're looking for.
If you're looking for a real "wet" look, you'll probably want an oil such as lemon oil, but that finish doesn't last. You could try a gloss, spray-on spar urethane such as by Minwax. I used that on my door thresholds and it was easy to apply, gave a smooth coat, preserved the depth of the grain, and added a nice finish. More coats = more gloss. -
4 hours ago, tragusa3 said:
Any ideas of how to keep them from falling without those ropes and without screws?
Your shelves are already leaning from the poor rig you've got and you obviously recognize that rope job ain't
cuttin' it for aesthetics. Ain't no way you're going to avoid screws, but you can do so and still look good.
Here's what I would do:
Google "decorative shelf brackets". I'd mount one bracket on each adjacent wall, trying to screw into a wall stud.
You may have to modify the dimensions of your shelf to hit those studs, but you'll still fit the speakers, I'm sure.
Your shelf will be level, and the brackets will look good.
-
On 9/15/2023 at 5:48 PM, tragusa3 said:
I am interested in putting a wax coat on them. It sounds like that will protect and give more depth? If so, what exactly should I buy?
I use Johnson's Paste Wax. Available at most hardware stores. Brush it on with a short bristle natural hair brush. Wait 15 minutes, rub it off
with a soft cloth. I used 3 coats on my doors to get a soft sheen.
Correction: I use MinWax Finishing Paste Wax, not Johnson's.
-
1
-
-
Those metal grills are da' Bomb!
-
2
-
-
It is said our audio memory is only 20 seconds. Assuming that is true, manually swapping amps for side by side comparisons
is a fool's errand.
The question is, are you listening TO YOUR AMPS or to YOUR MUSIC?
I'm not so sure people are going down rabbit holes. I think they're actually Black Holes...
Save your money and listen to your music.
-
2
-
-
Why not just purchase replacement pegs? Simply Speakers and Parts Express are just two places that sell them.
Keep the grills on and you'll never have to look at the cones again!
-
1
-
-
I don't have a lot to offer for advice but I will say you've got the immaculate inside as a reference so use that to see how close you are getting to removing the outside flaws.
I'd wash them first with Murphy's Wood Soap. Repeat the process until the water comes clean.
The tape on the cone- a hair dryer might soften the adhesive enough for clean removal. I suspect if you merely pull off the tape it will raise the fibers of the paper cone; you may want to leave it. If not a hair dryer, some boiling water on a rag might do the same thing but it may stain the cone. I've successfully used either technique but not on speaker cones.
Sand with the grain to avoid raising the fibers.
Practice your sanding on the bottoms of the cabinets before you attack the rest of them. Any mistakes will be hidden.
Stains never looked real to me. I like using Watco Danish Oil. Stupid easy to apply, and adds depth to the grain. One tip if you go this route: You've got to wipe up drips over the edges as you apply otherwise they will remain visible. To prevent drips I taped off adjacent surfaces with painter's tape.
Don't forget to show us the finished speakers!
-
1
-
-
All that matters is that they work. The patina tells a story. Heck, even the dust speaks "aged"!
Let us know how they sound, and post up if you decide to refurbish them.
-
2
-
-
Have you followed the speaker setup instructions on Page 159 in the manual?
I'm thinking you're outputting sound to Zone 2 or 3 for your test tones instead
of Zone 1.
Is the level of your test tone too low to be heard?Is the word "Muting" on your display?
Do you have a listening mode selected which is not 2.1 compatible? See the manual chart on Page 183.
-
Are your speakers turned off? Are you connected to your "B" pair and not the "A" pair? Do you possibly have headphones connected
which may automatically shut off the speakers?
I don't even see in the manual where you can set up the system as 2.1, but I'm still looking.
-
1 hour ago, RickD said:
What level of voltage should I be looking for on the woofer components at a low listening level?
Thanks for that idea.
Hook up your bookshelf speakers to the speaker wires feeding the Klipschorns. Turn up the volume and observe the voltage rise using a voltmeter set to AC Volts. Then hookup the bookshelf speakers to the woofer output of the crossover and do the same thing. As long as you see the voltage rise as you increase the volume, and you hear no unusual sounds except maybe high frequency limiting, you can assume the crossovers are working properly.
I don't know what actual voltages you should be seeing at the woofer output terminals. If you have access to the crossover on your bookshelf speakers, you can measure the output at the woofer driver's input terminals and expect similar response on your Klipschorns. I think that's a fair assumption.
Heck; you could connect the speaker wires directly to the Klipschorn's woofer for a test and you wouldn't damage anything. The woofer just wouldn't reproduce high frequencies.
-
1
-
-
You should be able to measure the board components with a voltmeter.
And you should be able to verify a voltage output at each drivers' terminals.
If you have another pair of speakers, even a bookshelf pair, I'd hook them
up to the woofer outputs of the Klipschorn. If you get decent sound, albeit
frequency limited, then it's not the crossovers.
-
10 hours ago, RickD said:
Could be the fact that I have a 200 watt per channel McIntosh connected to speakers rated for 100 watts. I don't think the speakers are 'Fried', maybe a capacitor or two on the board that feeds the woofers. ALK suggested 5 amp fuses and I just received them but I can't see that solving the problem. I'll give them a try but if that doesn't work I'll replace the capacitors next.
Ain't no way you're using all that 200W/ch on those Klipschorns! You'd be using sign language to communicate after listening to them at 200W/ch.!
-
4 hours ago, OO1 said:
001 said: joking aside these ALK's were connected to a surge protector and they still failed , buy new crossovers from klipsch , they can handle transients
Deang said: We use APC at work on our network switches. You sure the unit just didn’t fail to do its job? Short of a direct lightening strike - should have protected your amp. Which unit do/did you have?
Yeah; surge protectors can fail and I know of no way to test them for reliability. Also, a surge protector is not necessarily a SPIKE protector as well. A quick response time, the ability to handle a high number of Joules (energy) and the ability to clamp the incoming voltage to a safe level, are other specs to look for on the package. Could be whatever fried his speakers exceeded the capabilities of his surge protector even though the surge protector was within spec.
-
With such small amperage fuses being used, it's a wonder there's a market for all those heavy duty, oversized speaker cables.
Have I just exposed a conspiracy? 😃
-
2
-
New Home Theater System for a large room
in Home Theater
Posted
I don't think the speaker complement is too important, but the size(s) of the subwoofers would be as they must fill your large room volume with explosions, etc.
I would buy the largest subwoofer you can afford and allocate the remaining money for the home theater speakers. Your budget will rule everything.
Another option is to buy a system you can afford, making sure the system is easily capable of expanding from one subwoofer to two. Some subs offer an output to
daisy-chain to a second subwoofer, for instance. Other systems' electronics might offer 2 subwoofer outputs. Buy the system with one subwoofer now, and later when
the pocketbook refills you add the second subwoofer if you're dissatisfied with one.
Personally, I think any of the Klipsch systems will fill your home theater with satisfying movie sound; it's the subwoofer output and low extension that you will need to focus on. For instance, a small 8" or 10" subwoofer might work for a bedroom or den home theater but not a room as large as yours.
And honestly; while it's cool to have a full complement of 5 or 7 speakers, it might be prudent from a financial, sound, and room limitation standpoint to start with a 3.1 system, avoiding the surround speakers for now and upgrading later if you choose. Some of the "faux" surround settings are convincing enough and leave you without the room clutter of the extra wiring and effects speakers.
Note that Klipsch often runs specials on their web site, and many occur right around the holidays. But some times you can't wait!