Carlosrs
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Posts posted by Carlosrs
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9 hours ago, willland said:
My 63s are as good as I thought but room for improvement? Maybe I'll go this route also in the future.
Bill
I highly recommend it, its also a lot of fun. Here are pics of the new crossovers, and the old one for comparison, and the interior bracing. Even though it looks smallish, the bracing really made big audible difference, that extra support really tightened things up, I was surprised. Next step is to remove that foam and line all the interior walls, top and bottom with NoRez.
(Don't pay attention to the finish, once all upgrades are done there is some tiddying up and beautifying work to do!!)
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I finally ended up building new crossovers for my Klipsch RF83, with new upgraded parts with same values, from GR Research, and I could not believe the difference that made. My speakers were practically transformed for the better. Not only to my ears, but the measurements proved what I was hearing. This motivated me to continue with bracing the cabinets, changing internal wiring, just ordered NoRez for internal damping and ordering pure copper binding post, and I am sure this will contribute even more. The sum of all these parts should make a considerable difference for the better, I hope!!
I can't stress enough the impact of upgraded parts for your speakers. It is an affordable difference that could have a huge impact. Try it, you won't regret it. And if you can't hear a difference, at least you learned how to build crossovers and got the doubt out of your system!!The RF83 is a much better speaker than I thought, I am very happy with my "NEW" speakers!!!
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But would it be possible, I won't short anything out if connected directly through the inputs?
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Hello community!! Does anybody know if w=using the left and right inputs in the RSW-10Ds, can you daisy chain them??
I ask because in the RSW-15 the left and right inputs and outputs are all interconnected and can be used indistinctly.
Thank you
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41 minutes ago, moray james said:
Ha, that is on my old hard drive which I cannot access. Problem with sending off networks for a total rebuild is the re builder can only use the same values as the old parts on the board they cannot make any design improvement unless they have the speaker drives in cabinet to measure. I would suggest if you are set on this to upgrade the caps and resistors and leave it at that. If you really want better buy a better speaker.
I would recommend a very good stand mount two way with the smallest possible drives to achieve satisfactory levels and run them with a good pair of subs. Small drivers integrate bette than larger ones do. Multi woofer tower speakers all suffer from inter driver interaction issues. I am running a new set of Tannoy Revolution XT series Mini XT which is a true DC driver (dual concentric) two way the woofer is only 3.25" in diametre and you have to hear these properly set up to believe them. If you are into small ensemble jazz you don't even need subs. I have subs have not turned on yet I am still very pleased with them as they are. They have replaced a pair of Heresy 3.
Agreed, very tough to improve if they don't receive the whole speaker. Fun project thought! I would just like to see how good these RF83s could get if you remove the targeted price approach and just make it the "BEST" you can, granted using the same box, woofers and horn.
About the smaller speaker I was thinking on going on an open baffle style speaker from GR Research, seems like the direct opposite of the RF-83s. Will look into your suggestion as well and compare which gets the honor of the "MAIN" system and who does office duties!!
Thanks you
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55 minutes ago, mboxler said:
About three-quarters down this page...maybe?
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/113804-klipsch-crossovers/page/8/
Looks like it was pulled from here...
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/crossover-upgrade-on-rf-83s.588494/
Thank you, will send this to Gr Research and see if they could go on that.
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Trying to send them out to GR Research but the lock down in my country prevents me. Trying to buy one to have it shipped to him directly and no luck.
Does somebody have the schematics so I can build them, like Alexander suggests??
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Thank you Moray for your help, they are out of stock and won't be getting more.
Any other suggestions?
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Hey John. I want to upgrade them with better parts, connectors, wires, ect.. Need to buy one and have it shipped to GR Research to map and help me with making it the best possible. Also doing some cabinet damping and additional bracing.
Let's see how they turn out.🙏
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Hello community, can anyone steer me in the correct direction to buying an RF-83 crossover.
Thank you,
Carlos
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Here are the measurements for the Forte II, no grills, tilted up vs flat on the floor. Measured twice and the results were consistent.
Green is tilted up, orange is flat on floor.
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Will remove the tilt and measure again to see the response.
They do sound better tilt up, when they flat the sound feels like it is "lower", like its under you. Maybe I'm just used to having the tweeters above my ears living with the RF83s??
I don't perceive any different sin base response, maybe its measurable but no appreciable?
I don't have the correct risers to get them to the RF83s height.
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Thanks for your knowledgable input.
I have been working the RF83 whole system for a while trying to get the response where it is now. It was boomy around 40 and 70htz, but plugging those 2 ports really tamed that and gave me a better base to work feom. It made them dig deeper too, to my surprise. I replaced the tubes on the Sunfire preamp for old new stock ones, matched and balanced reflector 6h23p-eb/6922 Premium
help the mids and does'nt push the bottom end, very highly recommended. They are magnificent speakers that need a little work to get them where you like
Not the final result, but below is a comparison of the RF83 with the ports plugged and without.
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Thanks Bill!! I have tried all different combinations with the RF83 to control that bass, port plugs, different positions, bass and treble controls, etc... and this is my best response so far, will continue to mess with it, it's part of the fun.
Is this typical RF vs Heritage behavior???
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I use a Sunfire Tube Preamp and a 300 watt Sunfire 300 TWO with my 83s and the really shine. The amp has a current and a voltage speaker outputs for different results. I connect the current output to the highs to get that tube like sweetness, and the voltage output to the lows for bass control.
Don't be afraid to play around plugging different combinations of the rear ports to get the best bass results. Also try different distances from back wall. My optimum was 2 ports plugged out of the 3, around 2 feet from back wall and toed in pointing around 1.5 feet from my ears.
Have fun!!
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In the middle of this world shut down, which I hope will be over soon if we all cooperate, I had the time to do a real comparison of my RF83 and Forte II. I have three systems, and have been living with them for a while now, but I never had a chance to compare these two speakers with the main system electronics and room. Here are my findings, hope it helps, or at least entertains!
Electronics:
Sunfire Vacuum Tube Controller
Sunfire 300 Two amplifier. Current (tube like) and Voltage (normal) speaker connectors.
Yamaha WXC-50 streaming TIDAL and HiRes music from server.
RF83:
Plugged 2 of the 3 ports, best bass output in my room.
Connected highs to Current output and Lows to Voltage output, this yielded the best sound.
Toed in and pulled out from wall accordingly to get best results.
No grills for listening, make a noticeable difference in these speakers.
Forte II:
Crites upgraded caps kit.
Sealed properly the box.
Added a washer weight to the passive radiator.
Toed in a little, less than RF83 though.
Angled up about 1 inch.
Grills and no grills very similar sound.
Results:
RF83 had more bass, a little looser, but definitely more of it and deeper. The soundstage was noticeably bigger, with much better imaging. The sound was just bigger and more of an event than the Fortes. At same volume the sound was a little lower, has to adjust to match the Forte. You don’t have to be in sweet spot to get great sound, you can walk around and still experience that live music feeling.
The Forte has a livelier sound, more exciting maybe. The bass was a little punchier and tighter, but there was less of it, and did not dig as deep. Less imaging and more like a wall of sound quality, but much smaller soundstage than the RF83s. They don’t sound small at all, they sound big, but the RF83 sound bigger. When you move, or even stand up, the sound changes, it is noticeably better in sweet spot.
I don’t have the technical knowhow or language to go much deeper or more scientific, this is just my general impression. When compared back to back they are very different, but none is better than the other, they just shine at different things. The Fortes are easier to listen to at lower volumes and can be used even as background music, the RF83 at lower volumes are heavier sounding, they need a little more volume to balance out. Don’t know if this goes in line with the RF vs Heritage general perception, but this is what it sounded to my ears, in my room. Set up properly and taking the time to correct for in room problems, they are both amazing speakers that can give great joy to most. Based on my needs, I am keeping my RF83 in the main system.
Here are the measurements, maybe they could shed more light to those who can interpret it. The green is RF83 and the blue is Forte II. And a couple of pics!!
Stay safe people!!
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Great, thank you for your help. It will be used instead of the RCA input jacks for the LFE line from the pre/pro. The input jacks got damaged and I only have the output jacks usable.
Thank you for your help!!!
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Hi, are the line In rca connections just wired in parallel to the line out rca in the RSW15? Can I use any of them as a line in if needed?? By looking at the board it sure seems like it. Attached are a few pictures.
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Hello, I have an RSW-15 and two RSW-10D connected in my system for the past year or so, worked perfectly. I disconnected the RSW-15, and when a hooked it up a few hours later there was a strong hum coming from all 3 subs. I changed and switched cables around, changed outlets, moved things around and identified the problem comes from the RCA input of the RSW-15. As soon as I plug in an RCA cable to the RCA input I get the hum from any sub connected to the system, even if only the RSW-15 is hooked up.This happens on that sub even with the pre/pro turned off. The hum goes away if I apply a little pressure to the RCA plug. Definitely the RCA connection in the sub is causing this hum. If I touch different thing, like amp connections, sub plate or switches, turn on or off the pre/pro, etc... the hum oscillates. That 3rd subs connection is triggering the problem, but I don't believe it IS the root of the problem. Everything is connected as it was before the problem appeared. What could this be or how could I solve it?? Would this isolation transformer help???
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Eliminator-Blue-Jeans-Cable/dp/B00GG1PK5W
Thank you!!
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6 hours ago, JohnA said:
The only thing you've missed is port "chuffing", noise, at higher listening levels. Have you tried plugging all 3?
I have not heard port chuffing, but I don't play them very loud though. Will experiment with all three ports plugged and see how they sound. Maybe I can plug all three and fill in the lower bass region with dual RSW-10Ds??🤔
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7 minutes ago, willland said:
I still need to do that with my RSW-10d. Let me get it straight, I remove the amp and power cord input sections and send them in?
Bill
Hey willand. Yes, remove amp, cables and the two triangle controls/inputs on the outside of the box. The screen is not necessary, they have screens there to test.
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1 hour ago, polizzio said:
I believe you Carlos about your tuned Forte IIs. Clearly you have very good hearing and know what you are striving for. I had ported subs before and if one really understands the dynamics of the transducer and its reproduction, they create echos to generate bass volume, or tune the cabinet/system to achieve enhanced very low frequency production. Take for example a low cost BIC vented sub...then everybody should just buy one of those (or multiples of)and save their cash for other improvements. Most guys go for vented subs for home theater, maximum impact/slam. And you can tune the cab for say 20 hz enhanced generation. One can do the same with sealed, just need bigger transducers or more of them, and more amp power. Its sealed subs for me going forward. They have some firms building and marketing some massive output subs today. Seaton, JTR, Rythmik, PSA to name a few. And those giant subs that Norwegian builds. 21" transducers....sweet!
I'm 61 and my hearing is damaged from loud music ,concerts, drag racing, engines with open headers, and shooting. I cannot hear over 5khz without some major boost. I make every attempt to conserve my hearing now, and for the last 15 years. Ear plugs or muffs are my regular friends. I wear earplugs to mow my yard and most all power tool operation
As for the increase in bass @32 hz after plugging 2 of the ports, my best guess would be you effectively re-tuned the cabinet in doing so, from its original design. Like Glen stated above, way more like a sealed cab now. Big time change @ 25hz. You def improved the overall response with your tuning. Well done sir.
I like sealed subs so much I have 5. An RSW-15 and 2 RSW-10D stacked in my HT. Just bought two more and are out to service in Edwards Electronics and should receive them in a few weeks. I still don't know where to use them, but I got them and they are difficult to come by, jajajaja!!! Both of my 2 channel systems sound great how they are, maybe I will experiment with a 2.2 system and see how it goes.
Thank you polizzio!!🙏
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19 minutes ago, Marvel said:
This also worked to lower the tuning of the box.
Yes it did, they feel with more aplomb. That 15' passive radiator is magical, and it sounds alive even at low volumes which is just great!!! Some speakers you have to put the volume higher for them to shine, these Fortes are always "ON" at any volume.
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1 hour ago, pzannucci said:
A lot of speaker vendors provide plugs for their speakers to aid in placement because the speakers can, with certain placement, be bass heavy. Only down side is less bass. 🙂 Oops, you want to reduce the bass....
It seems that any combination of plugs used ONLY affects below 100 Htz. I am still getting a hotter bass than flat, but just below exciting the room to become boomy, better bass. And actually MORE bass below 32.5 htz🤔
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Klipsch RF-83 8" replacement driver
in Home Theater
Posted
Hello Brian, hope all is well. You still have those RF-83 drivers laying around. I am interested.
Thank you