SDDP

It really comes down to what experience you want, if you want the full genuine Dolby ATMOS, it's best to go with their diagram specs. I literally fallowed it down to the degrees. For the 4 over head in ceiling for ATMOS, I did the 55° and 125°. The experience is mind blowing https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/7.1.4-overhead-speaker-setup-guide.pdf https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/dolby-atmos-speaker-setup/9-1-2-setups.html

I have those speakers and little more. Was running them with a Denon AVR X6400H and Klipsch are one of the MOST efficient speakers around, I bought a few separates (it's in my SIG). The Denon is only powering the 4 ATMOS speakers. The 7 CHAN 200 watt is feeding the surrounds and the L&R wides, and the 3 CHAN 300 WATT is feeding the LCR. And the only thing this did is make me have to watch EVERYTHING I have ever watched in my life ALL OVER AGAIN. I did not make a big difference... it made a GIGANTIC DIFFERENCE! I was watching films at around 12 db with just the Denon running everything. Now I can barely go above -4. Way more bass, high, clarity, depth, punch, dynamic range, etc. It only made a world of a difference.

I have two R-115 in the front and one R-112 in the rear. I did want (well still do) to upgrade to the PB-15, just $5,000 is way out of my budget. I know they came out with the new PB-4000 which I am contemplating on getting one day. I am running a 9.3.4 Atmos set up, so with that many speakers, one would want to have enough bass to compensate. As far as color, well with your speakers (which is not normal) they are very high power ultra sensitive (I think 99 or 100?) efficient speakers. And with that kind of speaker you, assuming your running this on a bog screen with a projector? if so, you will need the flat black as no light will bounce off the speakers. My theater room is a 150" screen and once the lights go out, my speakers all disappear, even though my subs are 2" under the my screen. BTW the Klipsch subs are ported, so if you want the same punch, you would have to go with SVS PB, not SB which is their sealed. PB is better suited for film, especially for something like Jurassic Park

I am in a similar boat. 2 x RSW-15 in the front and one RSW-12 in the rear. I did want more bass, but I installed spikes ( I have carpet) and that did make enough of a difference in the bass. It was way smoother and a touch deeper with little to no rattling in the walls, cabinets, etc. However I have hear the svs-pb16, and they are in a league of their own. They are WAY more powerful, heart pounding, kidney stone shattering. But so is the price. 2 of the svs-pb16 would cost 5K. I was able to get pretty close with room treatment, running audyssey, proper placement, and putting all of mine on spikes and decoupling them from the floor.

I have 4 of them in my Atmos room. Reference material depends on your receiver. An action packed scoff ATMOS blu-ray would show them off. Best advice is to run the receivers audyssey and then bump up each Atmos by 2db at least. For my set up watching an ATMOST film...feels like I am in a cocoon sound. Make any film WAY more immersive. And for non Atmos material, my receiver has dolby and dts upmix to fill the ATMOS.

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up. I did get spikes for all of my subs and yes it did make a noticeable difference. Much smoother and deeper bass with less to none rattling going through the floor/walls. It was worth the headache

Good to know about adding them to my outside AC, But spoke to Klipsch on this and from what he told me, little difference, however if anything to use the spikes. The point would be to have the LEAST amount of contact with the carpet. So looks like spikes might be the route to go with.

Fascinating. Never thought of that, so you mean something like this? (I'm assuming 2x2" would be better than the 3x3 or 4x4) https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-MP-2E-EVA-Anti-Vibration-Pad-2-x-2-x-7-8

I was thinking of these. Any opinions? My speakers are all on carpet Gisveate Small Speaker Spikes 0.9Inch Ebony Wood & Brass Top Isolation Stand Feet for Subwoofer : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JNGBRH/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AAP9VJGFB9Z5S

Not sure if this has been covered, but I have a few R-115SW and a R-12 and want to raise them off the carpet. But with out having to drill or damage the subs. All the feet/spikes I've found require drilling into the bottom of the sub. Is there any other solution or recommendations? Don't want to go the Subdued or Gramma from Auralex either. I tried using Softtouch Rubber Chair tips 1 1/8th but the sheer weight of the subs pushes them to an angle or crushes them, unless there's a way to fill them up with something solid.

I'm running a 9.3.4 and ATMOS HANDS DOWN!!! WOW WOW WOW

2 is always better than one, and 3 is better than 2, etc. Sub crawl is your first step. Although because the 115 is rather LARGE, not everyone can place them in the most efficient spot once you do the sub crawl. However for those who can place them anywhere, still 2 will fill any small nulls and dips and give you a much more impact on LFE like in Jurassic Park. I am running two R115 in the front and one R112 in the rear (the rear sub is more for impact/tactile punch) and the 3 in my room are AMAZING! I am running a 9.3.4

The RP3 are towers no? I would never use towers for subs. Subs are design for one thing and one thing only, to play LFE only and not Freq up to 20k For surrounds that would be a personal choice and its subjective. However getting separates for the RF-7 changes EVERYTHING.

Anyone who's installed the CDT in their ceiling, have anyone of you removed the scrim material inside? (it's the fabric cloth that on the inside of the grill, usually recommended to be removed if painting the grill and then to be placed back in once the paint has dried) And if so can you clearly see the speaker and did you notice any better or clear sound?

These videos might be long, but WELL WORTH your time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZd9GoKQlMs