SDDP

It really comes down to what experience you want, if you want the full genuine Dolby ATMOS, it's best to go with their diagram specs. I literally fallowed it down to the degrees. For the 4 over head in ceiling for ATMOS, I did the 55° and 125°. The experience is mind blowing https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/7.1.4-overhead-speaker-setup-guide.pdf https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/dolby-atmos-speaker-setup/9-1-2-setups.html

I have those speakers and little more. Was running them with a Denon AVR X6400H and Klipsch are one of the MOST efficient speakers around, I bought a few separates (it's in my SIG). The Denon is only powering the 4 ATMOS speakers. The 7 CHAN 200 watt is feeding the surrounds and the L&R wides, and the 3 CHAN 300 WATT is feeding the LCR. And the only thing this did is make me have to watch EVERYTHING I have ever watched in my life ALL OVER AGAIN. I did not make a big difference... it made a GIGANTIC DIFFERENCE! I was watching films at around 12 db with just the Denon running everything. Now I can barely go above -4. Way more bass, high, clarity, depth, punch, dynamic range, etc. It only made a world of a difference.

I have two R-115 in the front and one R-112 in the rear. I did want (well still do) to upgrade to the PB-15, just $5,000 is way out of my budget. I know they came out with the new PB-4000 which I am contemplating on getting one day. I am running a 9.3.4 Atmos set up, so with that many speakers, one would want to have enough bass to compensate. As far as color, well with your speakers (which is not normal) they are very high power ultra sensitive (I think 99 or 100?) efficient speakers. And with that kind of speaker you, assuming your running this on a bog screen with a projector? if so, you will need the flat black as no light will bounce off the speakers. My theater room is a 150" screen and once the lights go out, my speakers all disappear, even though my subs are 2" under the my screen. BTW the Klipsch subs are ported, so if you want the same punch, you would have to go with SVS PB, not SB which is their sealed. PB is better suited for film, especially for something like Jurassic Park

I am in a similar boat. 2 x RSW-15 in the front and one RSW-12 in the rear. I did want more bass, but I installed spikes ( I have carpet) and that did make enough of a difference in the bass. It was way smoother and a touch deeper with little to no rattling in the walls, cabinets, etc. However I have hear the svs-pb16, and they are in a league of their own. They are WAY more powerful, heart pounding, kidney stone shattering. But so is the price. 2 of the svs-pb16 would cost 5K. I was able to get pretty close with room treatment, running audyssey, proper placement, and putting all of mine on spikes and decoupling them from the floor.

I have 4 of them in my Atmos room. Reference material depends on your receiver. An action packed scoff ATMOS blu-ray would show them off. Best advice is to run the receivers audyssey and then bump up each Atmos by 2db at least. For my set up watching an ATMOST film...feels like I am in a cocoon sound. Make any film WAY more immersive. And for non Atmos material, my receiver has dolby and dts upmix to fill the ATMOS.

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up. I did get spikes for all of my subs and yes it did make a noticeable difference. Much smoother and deeper bass with less to none rattling going through the floor/walls. It was worth the headache

Good to know about adding them to my outside AC, But spoke to Klipsch on this and from what he told me, little difference, however if anything to use the spikes. The point would be to have the LEAST amount of contact with the carpet. So looks like spikes might be the route to go with.

Fascinating. Never thought of that, so you mean something like this? (I'm assuming 2x2" would be better than the 3x3 or 4x4) https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-MP-2E-EVA-Anti-Vibration-Pad-2-x-2-x-7-8

I was thinking of these. Any opinions? My speakers are all on carpet Gisveate Small Speaker Spikes 0.9Inch Ebony Wood & Brass Top Isolation Stand Feet for Subwoofer : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JNGBRH/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AAP9VJGFB9Z5S

Not sure if this has been covered, but I have a few R-115SW and a R-12 and want to raise them off the carpet. But with out having to drill or damage the subs. All the feet/spikes I've found require drilling into the bottom of the sub. Is there any other solution or recommendations? Don't want to go the Subdued or Gramma from Auralex either. I tried using Softtouch Rubber Chair tips 1 1/8th but the sheer weight of the subs pushes them to an angle or crushes them, unless there's a way to fill them up with something solid.

I'm running a 9.3.4 and ATMOS HANDS DOWN!!! WOW WOW WOW

2 is always better than one, and 3 is better than 2, etc. Sub crawl is your first step. Although because the 115 is rather LARGE, not everyone can place them in the most efficient spot once you do the sub crawl. However for those who can place them anywhere, still 2 will fill any small nulls and dips and give you a much more impact on LFE like in Jurassic Park. I am running two R115 in the front and one R112 in the rear (the rear sub is more for impact/tactile punch) and the 3 in my room are AMAZING! I am running a 9.3.4

The RP3 are towers no? I would never use towers for subs. Subs are design for one thing and one thing only, to play LFE only and not Freq up to 20k For surrounds that would be a personal choice and its subjective. However getting separates for the RF-7 changes EVERYTHING.

Anyone who's installed the CDT in their ceiling, have anyone of you removed the scrim material inside? (it's the fabric cloth that on the inside of the grill, usually recommended to be removed if painting the grill and then to be placed back in once the paint has dried) And if so can you clearly see the speaker and did you notice any better or clear sound?

These videos might be long, but WELL WORTH your time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZd9GoKQlMs

Just my experience. I had the RF-82's and ran them off of my Denon 4311ci for a few years. Its rated at 140 watts x 9. Of course they say that like all receiver manufacturers (they play with semantics on numbers). Running 9 speakers I was probably getting 80-100 watts tops. They sounded PHENOMENAL! I have an arraignment with neighbors for blockbuster levels once a week and I DO TAKE FULL advantage of that. On my Denon I was listening at +10 to +15. After some research on getting some separates a tech support here at Klipsch recommended Emotiva. So I bought a 7 channel @ 200 watts. Everything changed when I put that in an re-ran the Audyssey. WOW!!!! Now on blockbuster nights I can barely go past -10! The depth and detail and dynamic range was night and day! Few months ago I upgraded to the RF-7 which I've always wanted, but the killer prices I couldn't pass it up. Being that it has dual 10"s I opted and ordered another Emotiva 3 channel at 300 watts to feed my LCR I already know there won't be a night and day difference, but will have much more headroom and can set my cross over at 60Hz and get more out of the woofers, since woofers use up a LOT more watts. So you pretty much got forever speakers. Will it work with your amp, absolutely. But as a previous post mentioned that there are no pre-outs, thats the down side as you can not upgrade to separates later down the line. I am a firm believer that more is always better

The problem with Klipsch Reference speakers is that that are so well made that will there be an enough of a difference to justify the price increase. Probably not. I had 4 RS-52's for my surround and upgraded to 4 RS-62. Was it WAY better, no since the 52 are amazing for punch and the dual 51.4 is in the happy zone for rears. but I just wanted more I also recently upgraded to the RF-7ii a few weeks ago from 82 and WOW!!!!!!!!!!!! My only regret was not getting them sooner, but the deal they have on the RF-7 now.. I couldn't pass up. Klipsch makes such amazing and detailed products, that getting next gen up isn't WAY better.

Its on the 1st floor dedicated theater room. Carpet on concrete slab. All of the R-XXXSW are ported I would like to get as close to what the SV-16 ultras offer just with out paying 2.5k per speaker

So how does one know if what they receive is B-stock?

Um...well both My goal was the SVS 16 Ultras. Just can't justify 2.5k and the size/weight. I know the 15 can get lower, but seems the 12 is hitting harder. I am thinking of 2 x R-115 in the front with the 12 in the rear would get me what I want. But from reading so many posts here and on AVS, I see a lot of contradictory post explaining the opposite and to go with 2 x R-112SW in the front and 1 x R-115SW in the rear. I know more is always better, but in certain situations it's not always so Any detailed advice would be greatly appreciated Room is 17 x 23

I have one hooked up to a R-112SW that is in the back of the room 24' away and I hear a popping sound. Was told it might because of the distance that it's looking connection and then re-connecting over and over

Can you let me know how much the SVS iso feet helped? was is a huge difference in decoupling the bass to reduce rattles into the walls? Also how did you attach the feet? screwed them in or just positioned them underneath on the four corners with no permanent attachment?

It's a little hard to tell if having another 15 vs another 12 would give me a more tactile feel

I have a 112 and a 115. About to get another one, not sure if I should get a 112 or 115? Not to thread jack, but figured this is a similar situation as mine. So 2 R-112SW and 1 R-115 vs 2 R-115SW and 1 R-112? I have the RF-7ii in the fronts with a 64ii center Any opinion would be appreciated, since I've read that the 12's have a faster punch feel to them. This is only for movies Thanks!