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  • Gender
  • Location
    Austin TX
  • Interests
    Music, movies. Motorsports - cars and bikes.
  • My System
    Family room: Yamaha Aventage 3070 + Outlaw 5000. RF-7II/RC-64II, CDT-5800II front and rear height, RSL C43E side surround ,SVS Ultra bookshelf back surround
    Office: NAD C372, Forte II. Fed by Tidal PC + Schiit Modi multibit and a mid entry level Fluance RT81 in walnut
    Girls room: Yamaha WXA-50, Martin Logan Motion 15, SVS SB-1000
    Garage: Yamaha Aventage 860, HIP-2, R-14m, Outlaw LFM-1

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bkevind's Achievements

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  1. That's a decent size room, I think the rp-280f will be great in there. Is it a close room or open to the house? You can/will get more bass reinforcement if it is a closed room, and of course based on placement. Of course corner placement naturally reinforces bass, so you can experiment with placement for the desired result. Audyssey comes with certain receivers, such as Denon and Marantz. You might use other independent room correction / tuning software with a good mic. The name of what you would need for that escapes me at the moment. REQ wizard maybe?
  2. Hmm. Well there are lot of ways to go with this topic. Ported/sealed can both give you your desired results depending on the sub, depending on your room. What is your ceiling height and is the room closed? (looking for cubic feet to determine total volume the sub(s) will need to pressurize) What is your desired budget? Placement issues? Multiple subs an option? Do you really want club level output? (and sheesh, clubs are all a bit different so...that is hard to define) If you have a specific goal - define it clearly, then it's easier to figure how to achieve it. For example... "I want 120dB average/minimum/flat/etc from 35-80Hz measured at my listening position" There are so many choices out there these days for amazing subs that we can't just point to one and say, "this is it" Something like a JTR captivator with 2x 18" drivers would probably make you more than happy, and lots of other subs would as well...
  3. Cool, I'm late to the party I just keep seeing "dual driver" thrown around about the RSW-15, which kind of makes me twitch a little bit. haha.
  4. One thing to consider here, which you probably know already - a passive radiator sort of does the same job as a port. The R-115SW is slot ported. In theory, a ported 15" vs a 15" with a with a passive rad is a similar design with a similar outcome. It's likely a good bit cheaper to manufacture a slot ported sub than an active/passive driver config. The RSW-15 is NOT a dual driver sub. It has a single 15" active driver, with a passive radiator. I suppose there are advantages to active+passive vs. active+port(s), probably around ease of tuning and cost, maybe box size. A good sub has the "right" amount of power, and absolute control.
  5. She hasn't noticed! Since Thursday last week. She probably senses something different but...it's a big black box in the right corner, as it has been for a while. @utvolsfan any luck locally?
  6. Congrats on the dual 16's! Sounds like you went with SBs? $850 for a SB13 is a great price. It is a fantastic sub, very good with music, and has the chops to keep up with movies with authority. I love my SB13 Ultra. It's just do darn good. I have been looking for a second one in the SVS outlet, but they go quick. Instead I caved to ported sub lust and have a PB-13 Ultra on the way because I could not resist the outlet price. My wife will be annoyed. I hope to get the PB in place while she is out of town hahaha. Then see how long it takes her to notice the much larger box. I might try the difficult task of integrating the PB with the SB. Maybe have the SB in near-ish field for tactile goodness. Worse case I get to use the SB13 in a smaller room, which will be amazing.
  7. For Atmos, if you care to follow Dolby's recommendations - you'll want one of two types of ceiling speaker. The first is a downward firing with very wide dispersion - something like 45 degrees (kinda hard to find). Barring that, second option is ceiling speaker that is aim-able towards listening position. The Klipsch THX ceiling speakers are made as surrounds (right?), not sure what their dispersion is like, and they don't appear to be aim-able (maybe I'm not looking at the correct models). It'd probably sound good regardless, depends on how much to recommended specs you want to stick with. If you already have them there then sure why not use them and see how you like it.
  8. I have the 3070. To run 11 channels you'll need at least one 2 channel external amp (will be needed for the rear heights - there is no option to reassign that unfortunately). I do like the 3070, but as many AVRs, it will not make a lot of wpc with all (9) channels driven. That said, I have used it to run all channels for a period and it worked very well - I did not notice any lack of oomph, at high volumes. Good thing, if you need more - every channel has a pre-out as you would expect at this level of AVR. I really like the 3070. The thing just works. No glitches. I like the music cast, which works well with Tidal. I can't speak to matching up with your 7III and 64III. I've got the 7II and 64II. I'm quite happy with in ceiling 4x CDT-5800II mismatched with 2x RSL C34E. Further mismatched with rear surrounds being SVS Ultra bookshelf speakers (overkill but they're sitting around...). This is in a multi use living room setting (open space not good for audio nor treated in anyway). I enjoy the experience, and regarding the mismatch, I just can't tell that the RSLs and SVS are all that different from the Klipsch. LCR is clearly the important bits, at least to my ears and my space. Different story of course if you've got a proper theater room, and will fine tune, level match etc.
  9. I used to love opening a new CD. My 15 second procedure - 1. Take the back/hinge side of the CD case, rub the corner/edge of a counter, which quickly shreds the plastic wrap, comes off in seconds. 2. Now gently pry the two hinge "ears" of the "lid" of the case off, now you can quickly and easily peel off the sticky label whole - no tearing, no tears. 3. ... 4. CD Freedom. Amazed family and friends. Music bliss ready to go when you get to your car for the ride home. Ahhh fond memories of the 90's
  10. I was wondering the same thing - haven't seen him post in a while. I recognize his state of being, his way of thinking. It seems a lot like full on ADD, and possibly medicated heavily to function in the "real world". That doesn't change the way an ADD mind works. One will hyper focus on the topic that is of interest, pouring tremendous mental energy into said topic. But it passes, the lens shifts to another topic, and the cycle continues. This topic may swing back around and we'll see him again. I might be wrong of course, but I just wanted to share t......omg SQUIRREL! bbl...
  11. What do y'all think about airbows?
  12. bkevind

    Holy week

    I hope the best for you, all of you regardless of your beliefs, on this day, and every day.
  13. I'll swap the two tweeters when I have more time (to validate if it's the tweeter or the network). Maybe later tomorrow when family stuff settles down. If it's the tweeter... Is the Forte II tweeter the same as the HIP-2? I ask because I replaced my working forte II tweeters with titanium tweets. So I have a couple of spares.
  14. Alright. Well I used some super strong 3M "velcro" to keep the network in place. The other one was solid so I didn't mess with it. Visual inspection, it seems the network is ok, though things got pushed around a bit. Hooked up for testing. Hey sounds pretty good....oh wait.... I listen carefully to each driver. The tweeter in the same one I had to velcro is not working. I verified it's plugged in. The woofers, squawkers and the other tweeter are working. So there it is. I don't know if it's the tweeter itself (most likely) or possible the network. I'll take another look later. Family time!
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