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Chorus1 Fan

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Everything posted by Chorus1 Fan

  1. The upper bracing starts right above the opening of the woofer. (side to side oak 1"x1"). This is probably the weakest section of the entire speaker, because it's where the motorboard is thinnest, between the woofer opening & the mid-horn opening. Most of the bracing is 1"x1", with one piece of 2" x 3/4" & 2 cleats used in the middle as a side to side brace (same as I used on the bottom section) I also used construction adhesive to glue on 3 sheets of sound deadening egg crate foam. One sheet is on the inner "roof" of the speaker and one one each upper side wall. These were 2" thick 1 foot squares I bought on Amazon. (In case you're wondering, no insulation was inside the cabinet originally)
  2. One more view of the lower bracing & ports... Time to work on the upper part next
  3. Better view of the lower bracing (Thanks Morey for the Quartet bracing pics I used for ideas !) I was able to use small wood clamps (& titebond lll wood glue) on most places, but I did have to use two small 5lb dumbells on the cleats beneath the side to side brace in this pic. Flipping a Chorus speaker top to bottom numerous times for brace work is like going to the gym... 😁 You can also barely see a small roll of "polyfill" I put up front, right beneath the the two paper tubes side to side. You can also see the silver "metal foil" A/C duct tape I used as the final layer to strengthen the seam between the plastic flare & the cardboard port
  4. Ports are now fully installed, in their final positions. The bracing work is in progress. I glued oak 1x1's (purchased at home depot) on the front & rear walls & also 1x1's as front to rear braces. I test fit the ports prior to gluing the braces to make sure I could remove the ports if I ever need to/want to (hopefully not, but ya never know what cranking up the volume may do some day...) There is also a 2' x 3/4" oak strip connecting the walls side to side as seen in this pic. The lower bracing is installed just barely below the woofer opening on the front wall.
  5. You can see the electrical taped seam in this pic, but I was just test fitting them to each opening. They still need a layer of foil A/C duct tape (read below) To get them TIGHT (pressed in fit) do this: 1. Place tube in one at a time from the inside 2. leave an extra 3-4 inches of port sticking out through the hole 3. wrap as much electrical tape as needed on each one individually (some took 1 wrap, others took up to three complete wraps) 4. wiggle & gently press it back in from the OUTSIDE to get a final "flush" fit & have it as tight fitting as possible In This pic the ports were almost done but I did do two more things: a. I hot-glued the joint 3/4's the way around where the port meets the wood of the front motorboard. This makes em rock solid! b. before installing, wrapped the flare/tube seam with silver foil tape that is designed for use on A/C ducts. (you can see the silver tape in a pic of the braces coming up next)
  6. After I cut the cardboard, I had to figure out a way to join the flare to the tube (btw, they are EXACTLY the same size diameter) I used blue painters tape on the inside (temporary measure, removed later) and then TWO coats around the outside seam of this flexible black adhesive called "E-6000" that I bought at Ace Hardware. After both of the 2 adhesive coats dried, I wrapped the seam with two layers of electrical tape to give it more strength.
  7. This is the flare I used. It might be a little overkill (? unnecessary) but I wanted to make sure I didn't get any port noise/chuffing sounds afterwards https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-PSP-4IF-4-Inside-Flare-for-Port-Tube-268-377 <-- LINK to parts express 4" flare
  8. This is a closeup of the part I used. I bought it at "Michaels" a big chain craft store we have here in Florida. You may find it elsewhere, but I tried other mailing tubes, carpet roll inserts, etc. for weeks on end and NONE fit like I wanted except this one. https://www.michaels.com/white-shipping-tube-by-celebrate-it/M10323409.html?dwvar_M10323409_size=4&utm_source=CJ&utm_medium=2470763&utm_campaign=14079089&cm_mmc=Affiliate-_-CJ-_-2470763-_-14079089&affSource=2470763_14079089&cjevent=2c79bd6994ee11eb827d02db0a82b82c I did have to wind between 1-3 layers of electrical tape on the end of each tube to make it fit tight (& each one was different/unique in the amount it took)
  9. This is the cardboard shipping "tube" I used. I searched forever to find one that was a precise (semi-precise😁) fit. I also had to trim it to fit with my chop saw (fine toothed blade) because of the flare I used on the end. I tried to keep the overall length including the "usable portion" of the flare to about 7" overall.
  10. I purchased my Chorus 1's & figured that if I tweaked the low bass response a little, these would be a pair of speakers I would keep forever. I got finished this past weekend & figured it was my turn to "pay it forward" & share the results in a build thread so others can easily duplicate the project (including pix/part #'s/relevant info) I also decided since I was "going in" the cabinets, I might as well try bracing them too. To make the post modification info more objective (hopefully) & less of my "opinion" I purchased digital test tone CD for low bass frequencies. I tested them pre & post mods & was quite happy with the results (testing info coming up at the end 😎) Dave
  11. ZZ top "One Foot In The Blues" CD:. Song: "Fool For Your Stockings" If it's loud enough, the opening note has scared (made em jump) many of my friends... πŸ™‚ "Sure got cold after the rain fell" is another awesome song... Not a very well known CD, Saw it recommended elsewhere... LOVE It !
  12. I copied/pasted the add from the "dollars & sense" section over at Audiokarma... I've seen him post good info in other areas. I think it's legit. (No affiliation πŸ™‚
  13. https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/ele/d/silver-spring-klipsch-speakers/6916978011.html Wish I was closer... What a DEAL !!!
  14. I have modded Chorus 1's in my main 2 channel listening room , & KG 4.2's, in a bedroom, but neither are in use as my HT setup My HT setup is an Emotiva sub, Heresy ll's with crites diaphragms & crossovers, KSF-S5's as rear surround & a KSP-C6 as my current center. I do have a KSF-C5 in storage (it came with the S5's, but I've never used it) I'm not as obsessed as some others here about "Timbre matching" so I'm pretty happy with the KSP-C6, I'm just curious how it matches up to the other two you've owned, the KSF-C5 & KLF-C7. (I bet not many have owned/listened to all three of them, especially the KSP-C6)
  15. Keith (or others). Which sounds better to you, the KSF C5 or the KSP C6? How far off sonically are they from the KLF C7 ?. (Big $$$ difference...)
  16. I found the some of the online posts(Quotes) that got me interested in this mod to start with 😎 (1 on this forum, one on another one) " With the Chorus I would suggest adding a couple of port tubes to the holes in the front, bring the total depth up to about 7". The bass will sound quite a bit better (more like the Chorus II). The cabinets are tuned to around 45hz @ -3db. With the help of some fellow AKers, I cut some tubes to fit the ports and dropped the cabinet tuning to around 38hz. The modification is totally reversible. The new tuning is very close to what I want." " I read on another site that I should try port tubes in my Chorus Is that are about 7" long to get the bass a little lower. to test i used a mp3 called "bass hit"...its an old song that the kids played back in the day to rattle everything in their cars. It has a point in the song where the bass hits 4 low notes in sequence getting progressively lower. Without the port tubes, note 3 was about half the volume of notes 1 and 2 with note 4 being almost non existant. With the port tubes installed note 3 was as loud as 1 and 2 and note 4 was much quieter but definitely audible/felt. I do not know what frequency these notes are but it did make a difference. For 25 bux in parts you cant beat it. Sorry it wasnt more technical and scientific but it works. "
  17. If it's good enough for Claude & a Klipsch engineer, it's good enough for me πŸ™‚
  18. The bottom end isn't bad (especially compared to my La Scalas) but another 3-5 db on the low end would be nice if they're "free for the taking"
  19. Crossover shot was angled up. Here's a frontal view
  20. I did some measurements today: The factory opening is 4 & 1/16. It is 13 & 1/4 inches from the INSIDE edge of the holes in the motorboard to the back wall. My crossovers were already upgraded when I got them (sonicaps) & are mounted in the factory location (on the inside the speaker terminal plate) so port length won't be an issue.
  21. So If I end up using a 7" total length tube/vent, would 4" away from the back wall be enough? (Someone who was an experienced speakerbuilder did some calcs & said a 7" vent would be ideal in a Chorus 1)
  22. Somebody scored, those cabinets look great !
  23. Anyone here tried this Kinter everyone seems to be raving about hooked up to a pair of old-school Klipsch speakers? https://kinterusa.com/product-line?olsPage=products%2Fkinter-k2020a-limited-edition-original-tripath-ta2020-020-class-t-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-12v-5a-power-supply-black It's only 32.00 on Amazon right now. If nothing else, it would be cool to say this tiny thing is all that's pushing my_________ (La Scalas, K-Horn, Heresy, etc.) I'm tempted to buy one for my office & do just that. If I do, I want to buy a cd/dvd player with a small footprint so the whole rig sits on top of the speaker 😁
  24. Below is a pic of a Scotch mailing tube, which is the closest thing I've found that seems like it has "possibilities". I will probably try Moray's rolled paper idea 1st, then try to find this Scotch tube as a single at a reasonable price, which is easier said than done, most places want you to buy a case! (a mailing tube would hopefully be sturdy enough to hold up long term) And, I didn't buy the whole 4" tube from parts express, only the flared end. (it was CLOSE, but slightly too big) I may try to put the flare on the inside end to cut down on turbulence, especially if it fits snug on whatever tube I end up using.
  25. Good advice, (slow down) The crossovers & diaphragms were done when I got em, so I was wanting to finish off the job :-)
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