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Chorus1 Fan

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Everything posted by Chorus1 Fan

  1. Mine are walnut Heresy 2's, with Crites Titanium diaphragms. They are in my HT setup (Chorus 1's are in my listening room 😃) with a KSP C6 Center, KSF-S5 rears, & an Emotiva powered sub. Watching a Horn loaded 4K Bluray like "Master & Commander" sounds unbelievably good !!!
  2. Leave the loudness off, but try the bass @ "1 o'clock" & the treble @ "2 o'clock" for cd's & vinyl The R-115 & R-117 are known to sound "warm" (tube-like) for solid state gear. Don't forget you can also use it as a pre-amp & connect it to a bigger amp for more headroom...
  3. I had a R-115 driving my Chorus 1's & it was PLENTY of power (couldn't get it past 10-11 o'clock on the dial or things would fall off shelves & ears start to ring like a concert... It also has "pre-amp out" jacks so I am currently using it as a pre-amp b/c of the remote controlled volume & my Yamaha M-60 as the amp b/c of the "dancing" front power meters visual impact. 😃
  4. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/528135305155791/ & you even get a pair of KLH's to flip 😃
  5. IMO, Chorus easily win on bass response, (pro woofer chest "thump" is awesome) They fit better in medium sized rooms, & are easier to move. (Try getting LaScalas in a car...) LaScala wins the mid horn battle (but can't thump your chest w/o a sub, which then creates even more size/space problems...)
  6. I actually like my modded Walnut Chorus 1's BETTER then my black LaScalas 😎
  7. Go to page 2 for detailed port info, but the port gets mounted flush with the front of the motorboard. (So it's included)
  8. Chorus prices (& Forte) are significantly higher now, even here in FL (where they've always been lower) I would say the new "normal" is 850-900 for Black, 1000-1100 for Oak, and 1100-1200 for Walnut. Price doesn't seem to matter if they're version 1 or 2, & both sound GREAT. The only time you'll see em priced at pre-covid #'s (600-700) is if they're "beaters" needing a veneer redo...
  9. Cool! If you lengthen the ports to 7-7.5" & connect that Onkyo, I think you'll find even more clean tight bass 😎
  10. I have one of those myself, but you'll REALLY be impressed (& get better bass) when you get a bigger amp. I have a Luxman R-115 that is rated @ 70w , but magazine tests "back in the day" said it was more like 85w continuous. At about 10 o'clock on the volume, things start falling off shelves 😃
  11. ZZ Top: "Fool for Your Stockings" (best recording is found on "One foot in the Blues") Pat Donohue: "The Road to Kingdom Come" Police: "Murder by Numbers" Dire Straits: "Six Blade Knife" Los Lobos: "Kiko & the Lavendar Moon" Steve Winwood: "Higher Love" Pink Floyd: "Time" Thin Lizzy: "Cowboy Song" KD Lang: "Constant Craving" Tracy Chapman: "Fast Car" Cowboy Junkies: "Sweet Jane" John Secada: "Just Another Day" Shannon: "Let the Music Play" Ace of Base: "All that She Wants" Copeland: "Fanfare for the Common Man" Pachelbel: "Kanon" (On
  12. Cool, & thanks! I would say don't expect a huge increase in bass, just a better, solid low end (depending on the recording) In my case, I used a cd bass freq "test tone" cd & did before/after testing. Before, anything below the 45hz note was barely audible. After, the dropoff moved down to 39hz - 38hz range.
  13. Looks great, did you consider doing the "port mod" ?
  14. I think those who say that must mean 100w via a modern a/v reciever. I say try your Onkyo 1st, then decide. I have a 70w Luxman (R-115) pushing my Chorus 1's & with the volume at about "10 o'clock" things start falling off shelves & my chest feels like CPR has started ! (& 0 distortion)
  15. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1912674878890428/ No affiliation
  16. Keep an eye out for a Luxman R-115. Power specs are underrated, (brochure says 70w, testing says 85w). It & it's more expensive big brother (R-117) sound "warm" & go GREAT with older Klipsch.
  17. I tried EVERYTHING, & these are the best fit by far. But here's how: To get them TIGHT (a "pressed in" fit) do this: 1. Install finished tube in one at time from the inside out 2. leave an extra 3-4 inches of it sticking out through the hole 3. wrap as much electrical tape as needed on each one & test/repeat individually until it's hard to get back thru (some took 1 wrap, others took 3-4 complete wraps) 4. wiggle & gently press it back in to get a final "flush" fit & have it as tight fitting as possible 5. hot-glue the joint on the inside of the speaker where the port meets the back of the front motorboard wood. This makes em rock solid!
  18. It won't fit (tried it) the factory opening is a little too small. But these will: https://www.michaels.com/white-shipping-tube-by-celebrate-it/M10323409.html?dwvar_M10323409_size=4" x 10"&dwvar_M10323409_color=White Detailed info on page 3 of this thread:
  19. Ports are in, & the lower bracing below the woofer opening is almost finished. I still need to glue in the crosspiece that ties the front-to-rear braces together. The "crosspiece" braces are what takes the flex out of side panels, (1 upper & 1 lower).
  20. I think it depends on where you're putting em, & what you listen to. I am the "oddball" who did the opposite 😃 I bought a pair of pristine Chorus 1's , modified the ports (thread on here) then played em side by side for quite a while. I eventually sold my La Scala's I had bought new & owned since 1984 In my 12 x 14 (vaulted ceiling) listening room, I prefer the chest pounding mid bass the 15" Chorus pro woofer provides. My La Scalas just fell short side by side. (don't have room, & don't want a sub) The La Scala mid horn was better, but not by a mile. I'm still happy 3 years later w/o regrets. I don't miss my La Scalas, & would still do the same thing over for MY room.
  21. The inside portions are 4" INTERNAL port flares (external one is shaped a little different) from "Parts Express" https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-PSP-4IF-4-Inside-Flare-for-Port-Tube-268-377
  22. I tried EVERYTHING, (too big, too little, etc.) & finally found these at a chain craft store called "Michaels". They're almost an exact fit. 1.) push them thru from the inside outward until about 3" sticks out the front. 2.) wind 2-3 layers of electrical tape around the end until it's a tight "press fit". 3.) pull it back thru by working it/wiggling it & install flush to the surface. 4.) Hot glue the inside seam, where the ports/wood meet. (makes em rock solid) I also use my chop saw with a fine tooth blade to trim to length. In the pic the right one is trimmed & the cut piece beneath it. https://www.michaels.com/white-shipping-tube-by-celebrate-it/M10323409.html?dwvar_M10323409_size=4&utm_source=CJ&utm_medium=2470763&utm_campaign=14079089&cm_mmc=Affiliate-_-CJ-_-2470763-_-14079089&affSource=2470763_14079089&cjevent=2c79bd6994ee11eb827d02db0a82b82c Here's a Link. My pic is from my 1st pair I did, (the 6.2" size), but the 10" size can be cut down into two ports (or 1 speaker), so cheaper to buy two 4 x 10" ones.
  23. The ports are almost ready for install, they just need a final layer of A/C metalized tape over my glue joint (I use the foil tape made for a/c duct joints to provide extra stability)
  24. Now listed as "pending", hopefully a forum member 😃
  25. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1457026601295862/ Klipsch Oak KG 4.2's in Orlando. 150.00 for the pair! (no affiliation)
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