Lbk
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Posts posted by Lbk
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19 minutes ago, Chorus1 Fan said:
It won't fit (tried it) the factory opening is a little too small.
But these will:
https://www.michaels.com/white-shipping-tube-by-celebrate-it/M10323409.html?dwvar_M10323409_size=4"
Detailed info on page 3 of this thread:
I might have to try those, I remember trying different things from HD and only got frustrated. Thanks for posting link!
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49 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:
WHen I used to buy bulbs for my rear projection TVs, the Osram bulbs lasted and were worth the extra bucks.
Osram orginal 79.99 free shipping. Company Abitan has one for 66.99 free shipping, company has good reviews 180 day warranty.
I trust your reviews more then amazon, if I don't find a better deal I will go with the Osram.
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1 hour ago, Shiva said:
I will always buy the ones saying original bulb, though they may advertise a generic housing. My last lamp was purchased on amazon for $38 bucks and I just retired it for a new one after getting over 3600 hours on it. I did have one that failed on me, though I did get a free replacement for it.
There is also this place that sells all original lamps, so they say.
https://www.projectorlamps.com
Seems orginal is the way to go, I decided to buy just the bulb and use my housing. Orginal bulb is kind of middle of the road between generic lamp and and OEM. 38 bucks is a deal looks like mine will run around 70bucks for a bulb shipped.
Did your old one blow up, heard a small pop and saw small flame when mine blew. That was a WTH moment.
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33 minutes ago, Shiva said:
I would start your search over at Amazon. I've bought several replacement lamps for my own projector over there, though not a Benq.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=benq+1070+replacement+lamp&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Look there a little, some bulbs say there orginal but aren't. Have you always bought original bulbs or tried aftermarket? Thanks.
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Need a new bulb for my benq 1080, same bulb used in benq 1070. Any suggestions on where to buy a cheap, quality bulb? Thanks!
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I am using one to power my revel b15, chorus II mains. The revels sub amp is messed up.
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1 hour ago, Madman1 said:
Toothpicks broken off will do pretty good without the filler.
I like toothpicks also! I like to stick a toothpick in hole for measurement. Instead of cutting toothpick (s) off flush I cut just slightly shorter then the measured toothpick, you now have a little - cup -that helps to hold screw straight when installing. Line up screw, tap with screwdriver and turn in hole.
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3 hours ago, Gerolamo M said:
Wow sootshe nice work. I was going to build a two box design but have changed my mind. I did my research on drivers and crossovers, spoke to Al K. I’m confident that the drive units, horns and networks will be a good match. Cheers for the drawings mate.
Hi Tom, constructive comments are welcome. I’m definitely keeping the boxes as close to spec as possible. Will have to make them deeper though as the dcm50 mated to the eliptrac is a little deeper than the crites and Cornwall dimensions.
Once I have all my parts in front of me I should be able figure it all out. I’ll have to take into consideration the larger volume needed due to added bracing, mid horn etc.
Lbk, had a good look on the forum. Certainly is plenty of cornscala content here. I’ll be sure to post pics once everything is under way.
Thanks again guys.
Gerome.
Pic's! Good luck with build.
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29 minutes ago, wvu80 said:
I found what I saw yesterday. There are two models with the same name! One is USB, the other is XLR. You have the USB which is what I can use.
Let me send you a PM and we'll discuss price. I am OK with finding the calibration file and I think you can find it too at PE Tech Support.
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Concurrently, why don't you contact Tech support at PE? I'm sure they could send you the proper file. I don't want to buy your mic out from under you (which is worth the most to you) and then find out that file was available to you.
I found this info on the site: Please email or call our Tech Support Team for assistance at tech@parts-express.com or 800-338-0531 option 1.
Send you a PM, just so others know cal files is load from the REW site. Thanks!
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24 minutes ago, wvu80 said:
I'm good with computers, not yet good with Umik and REW.
Let me get back to you. I've got plans now but the mic looks like it uses a USB cable. I swear that's not what I read last night!
Has USB. Do a search on how to download file see if your comfortable with doing download and we can go from there.
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9 hours ago, wvu80 said:
I know nothing about calibration mics but it looks like I need something which will plug into the USB port of my laptop. The UMM 6 has an XLR cable. It looks like that mic will not work with my laptop. Am I correct about that?
I had no problem hooking up mic to my laptop, worked fine. Problem was you need to download a calibration file that I couldn't get it to do.
Others on the net got it to work, I could not. Some people on the net say it's easy to do, not being a computer guy I didn't think so.
Just wanted to be upfront, if not good with computers I would follow above advice. That said, still for sale if your interested.
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12 hours ago, wvu80 said:
WTB Umik1. I want to get into the calibration game. An equivalent Dayton Audio model will be considered. You might even want to upgrade to the new and improved Umik2, I can help fund that purchase.
If you have one you're not using let me know. -Dave
I have a parts Express umm 6 I would sell. Not used much, could not get iirc calibration file to download. Its possible ,nothing wrong with Mic I just could not figure it out.
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Posted Wednesday and nobody has even welcomed you to the forum?
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Try doing a search for-cornscala-- on the forum,, should get you started.
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I would check your settings, subwoofer switched to on. Try different surround sound modes, sub may not work in some modes.
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On 3/24/2021 at 1:49 PM, Slozukimc said:
Hi. I know this is old but did this ever sell? I am looking for a sub to go with Khorns. Thanks!!
Click on his profile, he has not visited since June 5 2020. Might try sending him a PM, good luck!
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2 hours ago, StabMe said:
Sadly I am not a superhuman, so I will go ahead and start designing the SUB for this system.
Here is how it looks in SketchUp.
Perfect, thank you much!
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Are you using a 9.5 length port like Chris A, it looks shorter?
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On 3/20/2021 at 10:34 PM, Gerolamo M said:
G’day all.
Yet another prospective Cornscala builder with need for advice.
After lusting over Cornwall iv’s for some time I could not justify spending AUD 18000.00 approx. 14000 US on a pair here in Australia so have decided to go the diy route.
After a lot of poking around here on the forum I’ve ordered some ALK sp12 and es5800 networks, Crites cast frame woofers, B&C DCM50’s, DE120’s and eliptrac 400 with Dave’s tweeter horn.
I initially was going to go with the C type Crites kit but was told that they have had huge problems in the past with freight companies in the past damaging orders etc when shipping to Oz. So that led me down a rabbit hole to purchasing the parts mentioned above.
So my question/plea for help is about the cabinets.
I would prefer to build split cab speakers as some have done but am not sure of the cabinet volume size and port shelves.
I am intending to brace the cabs, but not too heavily. I was thinking of using 32mm MR MDF as I will probably paint the cabs professionally.(vehicle refinisher by trade).I am not opposed to using ply, just a little harder to get really nice material here in Perth.
If anyone has any cabinet plans or advice it would be very welcome. I understand that building split cabs with mdf will probably change the character of the speakers, if there is any one who has had success or failed with building something similar please chime in, any advice would be hugely appreciated.
Once finished the speakers will be living in a large room about 560 sq ft. With 18 ft vaulted ceilings so space is not a limiting factor.
Gerome.
You could try sending crites an email see if they have any advice for building a box for there specific woofer. Have you checked manufacturer's website they might have suggestions for building a correct cabienet.
Just throwing things out there hopefully more experienced people will join in.
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If moved/start a post in technical and mods I think you would get quicker more responses.
I would use Baltic birch plywood instead of mdf if available in your area.
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1 hour ago, Madman1 said:
What is this clarion 5.25 and what adapter did you use to mount the clarion to the horn?
Stock (rebuilt) chorus crossovers?The crossovers are stock but rebuilt with crites cap. kit by me. Conventional 5.25 speaker (clarion car audio). I used a piece of plywood mounted to the horn and speaker mount to plywood with a 2 inch opening. This was my first experiment into a 2 inch horn, really like it. Never had a problem with volume on that horn with any of the drivers I used.
Khornukopia has use both the 17 by 10 and 18 by 11on khorns iirc. He has a thread but don't remember the post, maybe he could help more than me.
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I am running that horn on top of my chorus II's ( 17 by 10 bi- radial horn ). Runs straight off my crites rebuild crossover with k79 tweeter, crites ti upgrade. Have tried ev dh1a and selenium d408 ti drivers, currently run a clarion 5.25 cone speaker. No problem with volume on any of the drivers just like the sound of the clarion best.
Have a pair of cf2's and the chorus's easily outperform them, same volume chorus much louder spl.
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2 hours ago, VDS said:
Listening room is 13 x 20, but has 2- 5’ archways on long side, so that side has 10’ of wall, opens to kitch, dinning room.
If I were to use a regular integrated amp for subs, how to implement crossover? Do you put a cap at speaker for a, say 60- 80hz, low pass filter?
I’m doing strictly 2 ch, 2 speaker, audio only, preamp, amp, no AVR .thanks for the response, Ted
My amp has a build in 20 hz filter I can switch on or off. I run sub out from my avr (takes care of 60hz cut off ) to the sub amp.
Not an expert but you should need an amp with low/high filters either plate or regular sub amp. Active crossover would also work.
Might be better to start a separate post something like - 2 channel exodus anarchy sub set up help. You get the idea, I think you would quicker, better responses. Hope this helps!
With your set up I wonder if there isn't a horn sub that might work better ? Again new.post maybe - Good DIY horn sub for 2 channel music set up.
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12 hours ago, VDS said:
I’m interested in building a pair, or possibly 3-4, of these subs. You guys xocered construction extremely well, how about wiring them up. Someone mentions the Bash 300 amp from PE, I’m guessing 1amp per pair, or could I run 3 from 1 amp? Wire from 1st driver to second, in parallel to maintain 4ohm load ? Perhaps 2 per amp would be max to stay at 4 ohm?
I’m pretty weak in electronics and need a little guidance.
thanks so much, this seems like a great solution to get some bass boost at moderate volume levels, I never listen above 85 dB.btw, is this the Tang Band recommended?
What size is your listening room? That might help the smart guys determine how many subs you need to build.
Minty chorus 1 *SOLD*
in Garage Sale
Posted
Good info, thanks.