JasN00b

i'll give a review once i get them. i havnt gotten paid yet for the past 3 days of work, i have 435 dollars coming in tommorow, so i'm going to order the bookshelves to demo, and my tempest driver for my sub. i'll keep ya'll posted!

Why not hunt down some RB-3s? or some RS-3s or 7s? you could prolly snag some pretty cheap used

okay, that last review sold me on a trial period... everybody seems to really enjoy/recommend them, and for 275 a pair, how could i say no 0_0 i'm going to order them, and then i'll see for myself if i dont like them, i'll just return them. thanks.

thanks.

this is the room i've been using, and i just whipped up a diagram of it to send for some tech-advice from various companys.. how is that for an HT room? it sounds pretty nice to me in there, but i have nothing to really compare it to. all i know is it seems to be a very small scale replica of some of the large cinema theaters around here

anybody have any experience with the M3Ti bookshelves by Axiom audio? they've gotten pretty much perfect reviews everywhere i look, and for 275 a pair they're might tempting..

should i go for RB-25s or RB-35s? anybody know how much improvement there is between the two? i can get four 25s for 600 dollars, which is much easier for me than the 800+ for four 35s, but if the difference is great, i'll go with the 35s. also, should i go with a center channel, or a 5 identical speaker setup?

---------------- On 8/10/2003 12:23:02 PM TheEAR wrote: JasN00b, The "sub" using the twelve 12" woofers is quite nice,nut its performance can be bet with ease by dual SVS B4-Plus 25Hz and up.No need for making holes in the floor. When I decide to beat pretty much anyone I will order two B4-Plus and dual Everest subs.Case closed Now with all my subs I can get over 120dB pretty much down to 20 pulses in both rooms,and a 30Hz its a SPL massacre.Even my main PC system belts a solid 122dB at 30Hz!Rockets and rail gunns sound almost fake realistic. LOL The project depicted in the link is very interesting using the basement as enclosure.IB subs are great because they extend DEEEEP with little loss. The fun part would be building a similar project using 12 Tumults!And power them with four KRELL FPB600 amps.Imagine the natural disaster,the windows would be blown out. ---------------- hehe with tumults, i honestly think that the FCC would start to get irratated by that... i imagine it would interfere with siesmic activity meteres 0_0

IN A GADDA DE VIDA BAAAABAAAYYYYYY!!!!!!!

*takes out inflatable Dunlavys* 6'2" of rubber-powered goodness!

OOOOOO "masters of acoustic guitar"! the most beautifully detailed and rich production of acoustic guitar tracks EVVVVEEERRRR bill maize is mind blowing!

"Arc" by pearl jam... lots of voices over a large range of frequencies... thats off of the "Riot Act" album i think.. hmmmmm "Tocatta and Fugue in D minor" >=) but thats more of a sub-thing.. the Joshua Tree by U2 has awsome production...

---------------- On 8/9/2003 9:16:40 PM blake_mooney wrote: ---------------- On 8/8/2003 4:10:07 PM prodj101 wrote: dunno, I can't help you with that. but I recently added sound dampening material to my JBL sub, just be sure you don't block the port. also, keep in mind the pm's run very hot, adding insulation may increase the heat levels to dangerous levels. ---------------- whats the port? ---------------- the tube that leads to the hole in the front of the sub

could someone tell me in laymens terms what those two lines are plotting?

should i follow the exact design of pats? or the one suggested by mistrass, halved?

i havnt cut them yet, just did some measurements on a rought-draft piece i'm going to buy more MDF to do the final caps

also, where do you guys buy sonotube? i couldnt find any 24"x72" sonotube at homedepot.. are there any other chain stores that carry it this big, or should i try a local construction store or what?

i have an idea. i'll do this. since i already have the endcaps and ports andwhatnot, i'll just build two 36" subs, and leave one unloaded. then if i want more output, i just throw another driver into the unloaded one. then all the work needed is to secure that endcap... and *bam* i'll have two subs. then i'll just stack them or something ala horned..

another question, if i go with the 72" tall sonotube, can i use that with one driver? i'd like to see if one driver offeres the output i need, as i think that it will. so i was wondering if i could use the 72" sonotube, see how that works, and if i wanted to, put on a new endcap on the top for the driver?

is sonotube measured by inside diameter or outside diameter? i did some work today, and it looks like the size of the endcap will be just under 24" in diameter... will this be a problem?

if you push tubes, they distort regardless of how they're wired...

so to make this thing... i just take the sonotube, make two endcaps.. (which are just round circular pieces of wood cut with the right thickness cut to the right diameter, correct?) then i cut two holes in them for the driver and port.. (does it matter where the holes are put in the endcap?) then i mount drivers, do the wiring, get the port tubes, attach them to the endcap.. and then attach the endcaps to the sonotube? (what do you use to do this?) after that, i just put the 4" legs on it? that sounds easy enough.. i must be missing something. do i need to do anything else to the sub?

most likely the reason you hear a large difference is the 2nd order harmonic distortion tubes tend to throw in when pushed hard. thats why we guitarests love our tube amps to death, they are a) loooouddddddddd sound very natural and organic, 2nd order distortion, etc. SS amps for guitar have a very sterile clean tone, although technically more accurate. c) they glow... *stares at amp* mmmmmglowing

hmmm this is a dauntingly complex program... *Sigh*

i cant download the software... can someone provide a mirror site?