TubesGlo
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Posts posted by TubesGlo
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1 hour ago, mikebse2a3 said:
Based on your descriptions I would suggest that you “trust your ears” and not make changes based on some preconceived ideas of how a room should be acoustically treated. The most valid and ultimate test of your system’s performance is the listening experience and it sounds like you have an excellent performing system/room.
PWK noted loudspeakers having well designed controlled directivity have many advantages in reducing distortion for a given sound level along with advantages in direct versus reflective ratios as experienced at the listening position in typical home listening rooms and in your situation as described by your listening experience it sounds like the controlled directivity advantage means the use of typical absorption panels and their placement aren’t necessary in your room/setup and could actually head you in a wrong direction so proceed with caution would be my advice at this point.
miketn
Thank You Sir, I appreciate your input. I do trust my ears, very much actually. These speakers have been part of my system less than a year and I'm constantly amazed at what they're capable of. I'm very happy with the complete setup and having listened to music critically for over 40 years squeezing every bit of performance out of the systems I've owned...I'm more content now than ever.
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11 hours ago, mikebse2a3 said:
I’ve edited your pictures in an attempt to help show the details of you systems setup..
It would be helpful if you describe what audible problems your looking to improve.
How well does the 2 channel system image..?
How well does the 2 channel system currently perform in clarity and tonal balance.
miketn
At this point with the speakers positioned as they are I really have no complaints. They do everything well. Imaging, tonal balance and clarity are excellent at all volumes. Most impressive is how dynamic and natural the presentation is, 3 dimensional and just plain "real". I've made some incremental adjustments in components including replacing the Sonicraft crossover caps with NOS paper/foil in oil which I'll discuss in a different post. I've never toed speakers in this much or had them out this far in the corners and really not experiencing 1st reflection issues is new to me. I suppose I'm conditioned to believe absorption panels should be there in every situation which obviously isn't the case. I may experiment with a few without permanently installing them as not to place them where unnecessary.
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Optimizing this space for both theater and 2ch has its compromises. Most people would be using their mains for both applications and this isn't the case here. Originally I had the speakers in about a foot from the sidewalls without as much toe in. Side wall treatments in that position would have been necessary to help with reflection, which isn't the case now. The speaker's image well with clarity and good tonal balance. Conventional wisdom would dictate treatment for early reflection which has been taken care of behind the curtain for the theater mains. For theater use this room likes to be a bit on the live side and that will change so I want to minimize side wall treatments. Cornwall owners seem to agree that corner placement with considerable toe in produces best results which I've found to be true with my speakers in this room. Point being (finally)..with the speakers firing towards the opposing rear corners can I expect acoustic improvements absorbing high frequency further back on those side walls? My feeling is that with toe in as is, that problem which normally exists close to the speaker pretty much doesn't exist here and I may potentially "deaden" the room. I'm curious for opinions from you who may have speakers set up in a similar way.
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43 minutes ago, billybob said:
Hello, you did a good job explaining but, think better pics showing the rack that you describe as flush.
And, what exactly the problem is... thanks.
Not much of a problem, just not ideal. Two large amps at bottom of rack that I need to power cycle with switches on front panel, I can reach them. I don't want to compromise speaker position by moving them off the side walls, they sound best right where they are. The amps are each on their own power filter/surge and 20amp circuit and I may raise those up in the rack and reconfigure with auto power cycling through my Elan system controller. The 2 channel rack isn't very attractive and it does protrude a bit forward, not a big deal but the wife isn't overly thrilled with what I've done and liked the room before the big wooden noise makers got planted in here.
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I built this room as part of an addition in 07 when I was in business designing and installing home theater systems here on Cape Cod. Until last year it was a theater room only. The screen and LCR speakers are behind the curtain. Two 12" passive subs are under the stage front firing with a 15" front firing through right side wall at listening position. Equipment rack is flush with the right side wall.
I had a dedicated 2 ch room in the finished basement but that's been reperpoused so now I'm trying to use the two systems in the same room. The space is 14ft wide x 20ft deep. The floor standing speakers are 9' 6" center to center. The listening position is 10' from the face of each with 5' behind to the back wall. The room is acoustically good and tight, no windows and one solid core entry door behind the chairs. There are minimal wall reflections and I'm changing up the acoustic treatments. I always subbed out that portion of theater builds but I'm on my own with this one. I'm planning on a simple combination of absorption and deflection panels on the side walls. No corner bass traps as of yet, surprisingly no issues have arisen.
The 2 ch system gets the most time by far and I want to be careful not to deaden the room. I know what do do with the walls but I'm not sure I need to bother with the ceiling much. Now the kicker....the rack between the speakers as it protrudes into the room. The way these speakers project and disperse the sound has me experiencing no problems as currently configured. I sure don't want to cut into the stage to recess it and I don't want it off to the side. I know purists and perfectionists frown on this....but hey.
For anyone that might be reading this I'd appreciate any input or suggestions,
Thanks
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8 minutes ago, Dave A said:
A 1uf and 1.5uf in parallel will work fine. I have started stocking caps I can add together for various values a while back as it works fine and cuts down on the amount of stock I have to keep on hand. Plus the ESR will be lower that way too. I am sure since this is a capacitor topic you will get a variety of opinions shortly. This however is what I do and no complaints from anyone. I have never bypassed caps and have no opinion on that.
Thanks Dave,
With these particular caps to make up the 2.5uf I can only get 2uf and .5 or 1uf x 2 and .5 (no 1.5) I'm assuming as long as the voltage of the three are the same, summing three caps to get the value I need shouldn't be a problem.
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I need 2.5uf for the mid circuit and 4uf for the tweeter. I'm experimenting with NOS PIO caps.
1)Should I use a single 4uf or 2x 2uf in parallel? Also I can't get a cap in the 2.5uf value so I can use a 2uf and a .5uf or 2x 1uf and a .5uf paralleled, recommendations?
2)Is bypassing either of these caps with a small value poly-film considered necessary?
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Congrats on your build, nice work. You'll enjoy the fruits of your labor and the satisfaction of listening with a smile thinking...wow... I made these.
Enjoy! Maybe a DIY tube amp kit in your future.....
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3 hours ago, ned said:
Is it for the KEF or the Heresys? I bet it sounds great. Of the 350,000 sold, yours is just about perfect.
Neither, never had those. I built these.
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Finally rewired my amp. It started when replacing the original tube sockets with Amphenol blade style. I installed a new stock replacement 7199 board from Dynakitparts a while ago. Just installed CDE WMF series film caps with stock values, painted them black because I don't like yellow. The choke, bias supply and cap can are new. Diode replaced the selenium rectifier. I have a near new testing vintage Mullard GZ34, four matched pairs of strong Mullard xf2's and 3 pairs of 7199's. Fortunately I read Dave Gillespie's ST-70 Baseline paper before doing anything to the amp. I'm very happy with the stock circuit and it sounds beautiful with my Crites Cornscala's .
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10 hours ago, mopardave said:
You are absolutely correct. I pulled the cabinets out from the back wall 2' and the sound stage has improved. The drum set is now moved to the rear wall as it should. Sounds more enjoyable for sure. They are still 9' apart and i moved back further away from the cabinets as well about 13-14'. Sounds great anywhere in between 10' to 14'. Thanks
Do you have them toed in?
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22 minutes ago, mopardave said:
Do you have any good pics of the M2380 horn?
Not the best pic
I realize.
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24 minutes ago, Deang said:
To attenuate means "to turn down". So, if you thought the midrange was "too loud', you would have wanted to go from Tap 2 to Tap 1.
I owe Michael a phone call anyways and I'll get some clarification on this. I do know what Bob thought, because he was aware of all of the complaints about the midrange being too forward. They definitely used to send them out on Tap 2 (-9dB).
Yes that's always been my understanding hence my request to decrease (attenuate) the midrange. He was aware that they were shipped with mid connected to tap 1 and knowing I wanted to tame it explained with a photo how to achieve it by moving the lead to tap 2 and connecting the 2nd 2.5uf cap leads attached to tap 5 that were shipped disconnected under heat shrink tube. This as stated was to drop (attenuate) the mid output by 3db down from -9 to -12. I have no way to measure this other than listening with my ears which tell me the mid is less forward and the drivers appear more balanced. I don't know the numbers, the right or wrong of it. I just did as instructed to achieve my goal and it worked. Clarification would be nice though I suppose.
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
The picture shows Tap 1.
Tap 1 is -12
Tap 2 is -9
When you moved it to Tap 2, you made the midrange 3dB hotter.
Didn’t we just this (page 2).
Dean, I don't build crossovers but I understand you are are an authority on the subject. I only quoted what the builder of these particular crossovers stated to me verbatim in his email. I suppose he could be mistaken or I'm mistaking the definition of attenuation.
"If I wanted to cut back the mid horn output just a bit, is there a simple tweak I could make on the network? I listen primarily to Jazz with sax and trumpet that comes through a little hot even at moderate levels."
"Jim,
This mod simply changed the midrange attenuation from 9dB to 12dB. We originally intended them to be set at 12dB, but due to what people wanted we changed it to 9dB.
With this change the speaker will be more “correct”, we definitely prefer it that way.
Now you actually have the speaker the way we designed it.
Thanks, "
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6 hours ago, mopardave said:
Ok, what is the spl of your woofer? Just curious to how many db your running the mid above the woofer. Our combos are a bit different, but I’m just curious to your final setting.
Not sure about that, I haven't changed anything there. It just goes through the choke for low pass. This pic is how they were shipped and I followed Crites instruction recently to move the lead on tap 1 over to tap 2 while joining the terminals under the shrink wrap that connect the top capacitor to tap 5. I was asking for lower output from the squawker and Mike said this adjustment would put it at -12db vs -9db as in the picture.
That 3db attenuation brought everything in to balance for me, I like it much better.
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32 minutes ago, Deang said:
I’m sorry friend, but my eyes just aren’t good enough to figure out what’s going on there.Pics are the same, uploaded twice. They were shipped with the squawker at tap 1 as the pic shows.
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9 hours ago, Deang said:
Michael Crites needs to develop a logo. Seeing "CornScala" with the Klipsch pie logo is just weird.
They weren't from Crites. Bought them on ebay.
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8 hours ago, Deang said:
The first sentence makes sense. This is the common complaint I get from folks who reach out to me. The next sentence doesn't make sense, because moving the midrange to Tap 2 would make the midrange louder. IOWs, I'm pretty sure they ship using Tap 2 (-9, using two 2.5uF caps in parallel), with an option to move to Tap 1 (-12dB, using a single 2.5uF).
When I build them for people, I just use Tap 1. On that horn, the D405 is a 110dB driver. On Tap 2, it's at 101dB, which most will find too forward. I also go 12dB/octave on the de120.
This is how my crossovers were shipped.
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14 hours ago, Wrench said:
Have a listen to the speakers with a BLACK ICE GLASS FX TUBE DAC: https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/dac/black-ice-glass-fx-tube-dac-dsd-wi-fi-review/
🙃🙂🙃🙂 I listen to my set in my backyard for full effect. I find that the speakers work well with the tube DAC.
I looked very closely at that DAC because of my experience with a Jolida tube CD player that I had and foolishly sold after building a music server and ripping all my CD's. I Have a tube preamp and tube amp and I'm running Euphony Stylus with a Schiit Modius DAC and it's very ,very nice. I've been looking at multibit R2R lately and want to give it a try.
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13 hours ago, Wrench said:TIP: Did you try adjusting the crossover output for the mid driver:From Crites: "Remove the red string sleeving from the two red wires on the right side of this picture and connect those two wires together. Then, remove the connection indicated by the red arrow and plug it back into tap #2."
That's how my crossovers were shipped. After a few months with them I found the mid horn a bit forward, out of balance with the other drivers. I emailed Michael C. And he instructed me to move the lead on #1 tap to #2. Also the cap lead on the 0 tap should then be connected by joining the leads under the heat shrink tubing. This attenuates the mid horn by 3db which is how they designed them . They began shipping as shown in your pic to satisfy the requests of so many who wanted extra boost in the mid. To me it sounds right in my system after the change.
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8 hours ago, mopardave said:
Ok, just remeasured and I’m actually at 8.5 center to center and 11 feet back. I am close to the back wall, which if I pull them out 1 foot, that would give me the 10 listening distance. I have the cross overs at 9 and -2 right now . I just moved these into my 2nd home and need to spend some time with them.
Nice! They stole your TV but left that sweet stereo system?
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6 hours ago, mopardave said:
Very nice. What have you found for the best placement and distance from the speakers? I currently have mine at about 7 feet apart and sit 12 feet back, but it seems the closer i sit to them the better it feels/sounds.
I've tried everything and ended up with them close to the outside walls toed in so they cross a couple feet in font of me. They're 10' apart on center and I'm 10' from each speaker. So far this sounds the best.
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On 12/7/2021 at 7:46 AM, Bobcatva said:
I love your Cornscala badge. Do you mind sharing where you purchased? I want some for mine.
Yes, I got them on Ebay.
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On 7/20/2021 at 12:16 PM, Jem02jr said:
Looking to get into tubes with my Cornwall I and saw a local seller asking $400 for a dynaco st70 with new caps. Worth taking a look at ?
Did you get it?
Home theater pre pro
in Home Theater
Posted
I'm still running my old Anthem processor. Built well, sounds awesome paired with my amps. It's been very reliable and their support is excellent.