gsgleason
-
Posts
65 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by gsgleason
-
-
I just picked up some excellent condition RF25s, with the exception that someone broke one of the binding posts on each speaker. Both the bottom left, actually.
It appears that the post goes through the black plastic mounting plate and could possibly be replaced on its own.
I tried removing the next nut on the inside, but the little nut on the inside doesn't seem to want to loosen all the way.
Does anyone know for sure?
-
But does anyone know if it's a significant upgrade?
-
Rear corners are dented, not too bad. The worst one is one of the towers:
-
I have the chance to get a new damaged pair of RP800F with the RP600C for $500.
I currently have the RF5 and RC35 that I paid $600 for last year.
Is this a significant upgrade?
This will be the main living area setup for 2.0 music and 3.1 movies (SVS SB1000 sub).
-
Those are passive speakers. You can't have a turntable connected directly to them without an amp.
-
1
-
-
I'd rather have a lively discussion than have the thread be ignored.
Anyway, here's the current status:
I'm confident the connections are all sound. I've removed, checked, and re-connected everything on the terminal block and re-flowed all solder joints except the two wires that go underneath the paper wrapped 2.5 mH inductor, but according to the schematic that is only for the woofer, so I'm not worried about it.
I couldn't find the Dayton 4uF PMPCs in stock (only the DMPC), nor the polyester Kemet version, so I ordered some Jantzen crosscaps in 3.9 and 2.2 uf to replace all 4 caps in both crossovers. I ordered from partsconnexion.com.
Once that's done I'll let you know the outcome.
-
5
-
-
The discussion about the crossovers is in the technical forum.
As for the cabinet, if I can get the things working and if I like them, I'm going to start with a stripper, then sand and fill, and see if I can get the filled parts to look good enough. If not the next step will be to veneer over the whole thing.
Currently waiting on some caps, so it will be a bit.
-
1
-
-
@Travis In Austin I updated my profile to show. Denver metro area (Colorado, US).
-
1
-
-
@Crankysoldermeister That is beyond kind of you. Since these are 42 year old speakers, my plan in troubleshooting the crossovers is to just replace all 4 capacitors since it needs to be done anyway to get them sounding the same.
-
1
-
-
@Travis In Austin There shouldn't be a thread by any seller. I got them through FB marketplace. I'm pretty sure the seller doesn't participate in these forums. I did post on whether or not I should consider them given their bad condition. I ended up getting them for $450 for the pair knowing the tweeters needed to be replaced and that replacement diaphragms aren't too expensive.
The only thing I intend is to (hopefully) get them into working order, and based on that, decide on if I want to invest the time and money into making them look nice.
-
1
-
-
@KT88There isn't anything close to 4uF from Nichicon at mouser with a polyester dialectric.
They have 3.3 and 4.7.
They have 4.0 in Polypropylene but not polyester, unless I went with the KemetA50EQ4390AA60J, which they don't stock and I'd have to buy at least 2000 of them.
Which 4uf cap would you suggest to go with the Nichicon 2.2 uf polyester?
-
Holy hell, people.
Anyway, I loosened and tightened all the screws and re-flowed all the solder joints. It made no difference.
What is this JEM stuff I'm hearing about? What do they offer, and how much?
-
1
-
-
3 minutes ago, KT88 said:
This (the list below) was by Mouser for Germany in Euro but the type number is the same worldwide, the upper position in the list is the 2.2 mF type made by Nichicon. As I said before, perhaps this very type is available with a „worse“ tolerance to select some pieces of slightly lower value than 2.2mF to meet 2.0mF.
I have 2.2 mF in my Lascala and so far (before I get closer values to 2 mF) I am happily satisfied as is.
Position
Mouser-Teilenummer
Kundenartikelnummer
Herstellerteilenummer
BeschreibungGewünschtes
LieferdatumGeschätztes
LieferdatumMenge Stückpreis
(EUR)Gesamtpreis
(EUR)
1
647-QAK2E225JTPhttp://www.mouser.com/images/icon_rohs.png1
QAK2E225JTP
2.2uF 5% 250VMAI 10, 2021 6 3.68 22.08
2
80-A50IT4680AA60Jhttp://www.mouser.com/images/icon_rohs.png1
A50IT4680AA60J
250V 6.8uF 5%MAI 10, 2021 6 4.83 28.98
1http://www.mouser.com/images/icon_rohs.pngRoHS: KonformThe 10% ones are 2.86 USD each if I get 10. That would be $29 for 10 of them, which is kind of a lot as I would end up spending as much as getting expensive caps in the first place.
I assume matching is pretty important?
-
Just now, Crankysoldermeister said:
Yeah, this is solid advice actually.I don't see any oxidation or corrosion, so I shouldn't have to remove the old. I can certainly try this as it's very quick and easy.
I was also concerned with the negative bridge wire going across the terminals. It's not shiny any more. I'm wondering if I should try to polish it up or something.
-
5 minutes ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
Yeah, their website drives me nuts.Okay, I needed to go to 'film' capacitors, then I can filter for polyester dielectric.
-
1
-
-
1 minute ago, KT88 said:
To have a reference, if I were you, I would first go the way I recommended and use new electrically "correct" polyester types. . Then you have an idea how the speaker should sound...also in its relation over the frequency band, timing, coherence.
Only in the second step (after several weeks) I would try PIO as a possibility of refinement or disappointment.That sounds fine, especially on the cheap. I'm not finding them on mouser, however.
-
1 hour ago, captainbeefheart said:
If you have to choose use 2.2uF.
IF you want to retain the same type of sonics as the original type capacitors then get some PIO capacitors.
These are very good if you ask me and they are not very expensive either.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353676391302?hash=item5258c17386:g:6psAAOSwajVURk76
I can't say I know what the original sonics would be like as my only experience is with this busted up pair. I don't even know if the speaker that I deem 'good' is even good; it's just better than the other.
Since capacitors deteriorate with age, wouldn't these old stock potentially be bad as well?
-
2 minutes ago, captainbeefheart said:
Capacitors are not expensive, you can re-cap them for less than $50 if you know how to solder.
Yes indeed. I'm now researching capacitors that won't break the bank.
Jantzen, for example, doesn't make a 2 uf. They have 1.8 and 2.2. Which should be considered?
-
Just now, RandyH said:
well then you a bad crossover
Yes.
My concern is that the treble just suddenly cut out, and it's my understanding that capacitors don't just *poof* stop working.
-
Just now, RandyH said:
, what you are saying is that the problem is identical with both crossovers , this makes no sense since 1 side or at least 1 crossover is working correctly , you must verify the wiring -
1).......did you check the wiring from the amplifier to the speaker , by that I mean did you swap the speaker wiring from the good speaker into the bad speaker
2)..... what is the DCR of both tweeters and midrange drivers ? is the DCR the same in the left and the right speaker , the tweeters are 6.2 Ohms , the Mids are closer to 10.5 Ohms .
No. I didn't say that. I said the problem followed the crossover, which is how I know the problem is related to the crossover.
I tested all the drivers independently first and they all seemed fine, so I swapped the crossovers between the speakers, and the problem followed the crossover, meaning the speaker that was sounding bad now sounds good after the swap, and the speaker that sounded good now sounds bad.
-
2
-
-
48 minutes ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
A capacitor can be shorted and still present a capacitance reading on a multimeter.
Just replace the capacitors. I mean, they are 40 years old.
I'm just trying to avoid the $175 investment if I can avoid it.
Do you find it odd that the treble just suddenly crapped out like a switch?
-
1
-
-
6 hours ago, RandyH said:
swap the crossover with the crossover from the good speaker , ---------any changes ?
That is what I already did. I swapped the crossover the the problem followed it.
-
7 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
Did you loosen and retighten all of the screws on the barrier strip?
All the ones on the speaker side, yes, when I swapped the crossovers.
-
On 1/7/2022 at 8:21 AM, geezin' said:
You know that's said in jest don't you?
Well Cornwalls on the cheap something's gotta be subpar. How do they sound would be the question.
Well, both tweeters were blown. I replaced the diaphragms, but now there is another odd issue. One of the crossovers is borked and I'm getting very low treble out of one of them. I posted about it in the technical forum.
I listened to them when I got them and aside from the bad tweeters they sounded great. I have no idea what caused the sudden drop in treble on one of them.
-
1
-
WTB two black klipsch binding posts like on the RF25
in Garage Sale
Posted · Edited by gsgleason
Added photo and fixed typo
I want to replace the two broken binding posts on a set of RF25s. I'd like it all to match and be OEM klipsch.
Does anyone have any they can sell?
It seems many use the same ones.