colterphoto1
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Posts posted by colterphoto1
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The proposition you make in the op would be inherently weak and not recommended.
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Has it been that long ago? That was a great trip, except for the two aborted landings in Dulles... fabulous show, great seats, and we learned to sit on our hands until the end of each piece. Thanks Larry and Thebes for hosting us back then!
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Best bet is not to ask for a pair of vintage speakers in excellent condition and then propose that they be smashed up by shipping. Heresy is not a small cabinet, and once packed properly is pretty ungainly for the UPS gorillas.
Those who truly love Klipsch speakers around here usually make whatever trip is necessary or await something to come available in their neck of the woods.
Just some advice from an old-timer. Welcome to the madness.
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At worst, we might need to modify the networks, in which case the question would be - we would wish to eliminate any network components dealing with the point and slope of the X-over, but not any components dealing with any frequency anomalies such as eq notches.
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A friend just bought a pair of RF35, they have the dual input terminals connected by the plates that allow for standard operation. According to the spec sheet, separating the terminals by removing the jumper strap will allow for bi-wire configuration. Friend has a modern receiver that allows true bi-AMP mode. Can this be accomplished by removing the jumper straps (i.e., if there were no true bi-amp receivers back in 2001, maybe this was eliminated in the manual to reduce confusion).
Anyway it seems to me that removing the jumpers should separate the internal xover/speakers into HF and LF components such that true bi-amp configuration should be possible. Or am I missing something?
Michael
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check out B-Tech BT77. That's what we used to recommend a lot when I was in Tech Support. Not sure of it's weight capacity but neat tilt mechanism.
I'd NEVER hang bookshelf speakers from a bracket attached to ceiling however, you're counting on the pull-through strength of a fastener into soft wood (pine ceiling joist).
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The spider holds the voice coil in place, if the speaker cone exhibits such sag over the years that it should become uncentered, no amount of force or gravity will bring it back into place. I have a set of KP600's that were left in a barn for decades and the cones are ruined because of this - heat and gravity (the cones were stored face down), sagged the material of the spiders so badly that the woofers are ruined.
I've never in my professional life heard of anyone 'rotating' their woofers. Kind of like changing the air in one's tires. You could do it, but I don't think it'd do any good.
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sounds right. The older stuff there is no decoder ring.
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Would it be advisable to paint a pair of RF35's black if they were in the original cherry finish? These are the embossed vinyl covered Klipsch. Selling pair to a friend and he needs them to be black. Any advice on surface prep? Cabinets in very good condition and vinyl completely adhered. Thanks!
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Ok guys, I'm picking up this gear in a little bit, all in boxes. Will have photos as well. I think the RF towers may be spoken for. I owe my computer tech a bit for all this RAID/NAS/router work he's done for me...
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I always recommend some additional bracing in the stud wall behind the Khorns - just a couple blocks will suffice - you want that part of your horn to be as stiff as possible. Might want to put some weather stripping in that door not only to keep attic air out, but to stop any vibration or rattling.
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subject to disposal after 3 pm March 6. I sure hope not!
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I had mine rebuilt by a local shop since it's a popular guitar speaker. Not sure if they bought a kit or had to build it up from parts though.
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Could we see some photos of the rear enclosure modifications? There have been several posts of different ways of doing this mod.
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worth every penny of the asking price.
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bad idea. KP201 will smoke a KP250 in smoothness of frequency response.
I once lined up a Heresy, HIP, 201 and 250 and both the HIP and 250 had much less bas than Heresy or 201.
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You're looking for an EVM-10L
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Gorgeous !
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Just that's extremely nasty smelling, and rags highly flammable.
The Watco product has been used by dozens of us over years of experience with very good success. I brought back to life a set of Klispchorns that had been in a storage space for 7 years and were about as dry as I can imagine. Took about 4 good goings over.
DO NOT OVERAPPLY the product in any single application or you will have a gummy mess. It can be resolved by applying more product as a thinner for removing the gum, but best just to apply to lint-free rag and go lightly. It's all the rubbing that does the job, by forcing the product into the pores and smoothing the wood grain. There is no substitute for a lot of loving elbow grease in a project like this.
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Old Klipsch Tech Support Axiom (from Stephen Phillips)
Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year.
Ok, that's way overdoing it, but the point is that it's all that rubbing that gives a nice sheen, and you can't expect the decades old wood to instantly soak up all the oil it needs in one or two quick swipes. So get out those old diapers and elbow grease and love on those old cabinets!
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NO WATER - water and wood DO NOT MIX.
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Watco Rejuvenating Oil is very similar to the dreaded BLO product originally used at the Klipsch factory. Shake gently before application, use several thin coats vs one heavy coat for a better (non-gummy) finish. READ THE DIRECTIONS - it's a fantastic product. Make sure to get the uncolored type, they have some with stain in them as well.
If there are deep scratches in the veneer, you might try a colored Old English oil first to bring back the entire surface to the same color and fill scratches, buff off, let dry, then follow with the Watco.
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weird, just weird.
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Theatrical Forte
in Home Theater
Posted
KLF-C7 would work beautifully.