tigerwoodKhorns

I am using a pair of K-horns in a 14' wide room (also 29 feet deep and 2 stories high) II sit about 10' max from the speakers and they sound great. The imaging is awsome. I have accoustic (unplugged) recordings where you would swear that all of the sound is coming from exactly between the 2 speakers and nothing from corners. It is increadible. If you can fit them in your room, buy the K-horns, you will not be disappointed. Chris

Tom, you have mail. check your inbox. Chris

Deang, how much power does your scott have? is it enough? Chris

A guy here in town has had a set of 6 month old KLF30's for sale for about 4 months. He has KLF30's, center, powered 15" sub, and surrounds for $2K. He is probably ready to drop the price again. The only problem is that you do not want to ship them to you in Detroit. Chris

let me narrow the field. I am really interested in separates, not an integrated unit. I am afraid that if I buy an integrated, I will get the upgrade bug (an expensive one to get rid of!!) So I think that I should go for separates right away. so here are my questions: ANY SUGGESTIONS ON SEPARATES ANY SUGGESTIONS ON BOOKS TO BUY TO LEARN HOW TO FIX AND WORK ON TUBE AMPS. Thanks, chris

let me narrow the field. I am really interested in separates, not an integrated unit. I am afraid that if I buy an integrated, I will get the upgrade bug (an expensive one to get rid of!!) So I think that I should go for separates right away. so here are my questions: ANY SUGGESTIONS ON SEPARATES ANY SUGGESTIONS ON BOOKS TO BUY TO LEARN HOW TO FIX AND WORK ON TUBE AMPS.

let me narrow the field. I am really interested in separates, not an integrated unit. I am afraid that if I buy an integrated, I will get the upgrade bug (an expensive one to get rid of!!) So I think that I should go for separates right away. so here are my questions: ANY SUGGESTIONS ON SEPARATES ANY SUGGESTIONS ON BOOKS TO BUY TO LEARN HOW TO FIX AND WORK ON TUBE AMPS.

let me narrow the field. I am really interested in separates, not an integrated unit. I am afraid that if I buy an integrated, I will get the upgrade bug (an expensive one to get rid of!!) So I think that I should go for separates right away. so here are my questions: ANY SUGGESTIONS ON SEPARATES ANY SUGGESTIONS ON BOOKS TO BUY TO LEARN HOW TO FIX AND WORK ON TUBE AMPS.

let me narrow the field. I am really interested in separates, not an integrated unit. I am afraid that if I buy an integrated, I will get the upgrade bug (an expensive one to get rid of!!) So I think that I should go for separates right away. so here are my questions: ANY SUGGESTIONS ON SEPARATES ANY SUGGESTIONS ON BOOKS TO BUY TO LEARN HOW TO FIX AND WORK ON TUBE AMPS.

I am trying to get a crash course in tube amps before I take the plunge. Can anyone reccomend a good book to read (The more technical the better). Now for the subjective question taht will probably start a lot of arguments. Which amp shpould I get. A scott, eico, dynaco. I really like the way the separates look (bad reason but at leat I am honest). I am running K-horns in a 14' x 29' x 2 story room. what do you recommend? Thanks, Chris

I need to add some info. Room size is 14' w x 29 deep with a 2 story ceiling. I listen to different music, mostly steely dan, fleetwood mac, etc (70's stuff) I think that about 25 watts will be plenty, but I am afraid that when I want more power, it will not be there. any suggestions? Chris

Response to the last comment (agreeing): The Bose "direct reflecting" theory completely destroys imaging. I grew up listening to my stepfather's 601's and thought that they were great. When I bought a set of JBL's I could not believe th eimaging that I began to hear. Bose is good at mass marketing a theory that goes against what the audio engineers were trying to do. Stick with the Cornwalls. Chris

How much tube amp power do I need to drive a set of K-horns? 10, 25, 35, 50 watts?? Please let me know how much you are running and if you are satisfied with headroom, bass response, etc. Thanks, Chris

You really should keep the cornwalls. I was kidding before, but I was thinking about getting a set of chorous speakers to go with my heresys. I am ashamed to say this, but if you want to sell the cornwalls, I am interested. I live in southern nevada. Do you have any pics? By the way, did I mention that you should keep the cornwalls. No comment on the BOSE system. Chris PS: Did mention that the cornwalls are good speakers and that you may want to keep them.

Definately get rid of the cornwalls, they are noting but out of date junk. Because I am feeling charitable, I will pay for shipping to me plus a nominal fee for your time. OK, back to reality, the cornwalls are part of the heritage series and are good speakers. They do not need to be replaced. You can find Heresys to match and have a very good (meaning outstanding)sounding system. one thing that you probably know it that the heritage speakers will show off flaws in your system upstream, so supply them with a good receiver or separates. If you really do want to get rid of them, and live near the west coast, let me know, my offer still stands!! Chris

Cybernault, Go for the K-horns. I have learned this the hard way in the past. If you don't buy exactly what you want, you will always still want what you did not buy..... HDBR, Thanks for the explanation. I cut and pasted both of your replies into a word document so that I can read again later when I finally build these things. For some reason I thought that you were saying to use 3/4" wood braced with 2x4's. I thought "my god, he wants these things STIFF!!!" I just assumed that there was some other aspect of the stiffness that I was unaware of, ie I would defer to you, if you say that they have to be that stiff (as I wrongly thought), then they must be (you are privy to many years of experience). anyway, thanks for clearing that up. Chris

HDBR, thanks for the false corner details. A quisk question: A room's corner should be at 90 degrees. The K-horns top is soemwhat less (I'd guess abotu 80 degrees) I am assuming that the false walls should be at 90 degrees. is that correct? Here is some quick talk about bracing if one wants to keep the "walls" thinner. When a load is applied to a beam at 90 degrees, the beam's "moment of inertia" is what resists the force. if i remember corrctly the formula is 1/12wh^3. meaning that height of the beam is exponentially (to the 3rd power) more resistent than width. put is easy terms, if you have a yardstict, try to bend it over the small axis and it will flex easily. try to bend it over the longer axis and it is very stiff. thsi is the same reason that they design "I" beams for buildings as opposed to square tubing. the I beam is much more resistent to flex than a square tube using the same amount of steel. this is also why you see ribs on titanium tweeter domes libe JBL's. What to take away fromn this? if several strips of wood are used to brace the wall, it can be very stiff without getting too thick. The x-brace that you mentioned is also very effective and is used in auto chassis design to reduce weight (triangles work wonders). Just a little rambling, Chris

your email does not work. do you have any pics? Chris

K-horn measurement: Top: front = 31-1/4" 2 sides = 12-1/8" 2 backs (triangle part) = 22" Back: I measured the opening between the rear plate with the gasket and the side grill: 38-1/2 x 15-1/2" total height on mine is only 50". I noticed that mine are missing the small riser between the bottom cabnet and the top, that probable accounts for the lost 2". Now I have a question for you. You researched the false wall. I have windows behind my corners. do I just need to block off the openings between the rear plate with the rubber gasket and the side grills? Thanks, Chris

My K-horns are in corners that have windows on both walls. the windows start at 23" above the floor. Not good!! So let me make sure this I have this straight. just seal off the backs to the "side grills" and the bass should tighen up without shattering my windows? the thread that you listed was good, but I can't access the pics. does anyone have pics of the mod that is necessary? Just out of curiosity, what is the x-over point to the woofers? Wondering because of the whole low bass omnidirectional thing. Looking at where the side grills are, will the sound make it to the right place? when I go over to the speakers while they are playing, it sounds like there is only low bass coming from the lower cabinet. thanks, Chris

Thanks, it looks like we will have similar systems. I love this forum for getting good advice from those that know!! OK, you convinced me that the scott will work for digital. what should I expect to pay for the 222c in the link I left above? What about scott separates? this other guy on ebay has a lot of scott stuff. Thanks, chris

Here is the link to the 222 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14974&item=1942625002&rd=1 How much would I be looking at to get this one fixed up? I hear that your work is fantastic. you can email me directly if you like. What is a good price for these things on ebay and how much power do they have? Will my digital stuff sound good on them? Should I consider more expensive separates like conrad johnson? Thanks, Chris

Craig, Thanks for your interest in my question. I sent you an email asking if you had any Scotts for sale, but I assume that you only fix them. The seller is "scottfixer" (aptly named) and he has a ton of scott stuff. My older denon receiver that I use the MC cartrige with Lists its MC section as 15 mv and its MM section as 150 mv. The TT worked fine with that unit, although I have to turn the volume up more that with CD's. I also have an additonal question regarding the tubes and hum. When I bought a set of heresys, the guy's electrostats did not "show" and hum from his tube amp. When we hooked the efficient heresys up, you could hear hum. Should I expect this? I brough along a heresy with me when I bought, and mine showed hum too, so it was not the speaker. There is a scott 222d for sale on ebay that ends tonight. is this a good unit and how much should it cost? what kind of power does it have? Finally, and you may have already answered this in reply to the above, should I consider other tube amps. When I was a kid, I used to dream about Mcintosh. I don't really see anyone here using that. Should I wait and buy something like conrad johnson? (ie is there any benefit to more expensive stuff). I consider this a very long term investment, so if I need to wait, I will. How hard is the Scott stuff to work on, and will I have to work on it a lot. I figure that I should buy a book and learn how. Thanks again, Chris (tubee in training)

First, I want to thank everyone. I have gotten so much info from this site that would take forever to get. You guys have convinced me. I want to buy a Scott Tube amp / Pre amp, or integrated amp (or receiver if they are available) I contacted a guy on ebay who has "over 200" Scott pieces and will build what I want. I just don't know what I want...yet. Here is what I am running now: Denon 5800 receiver 13 year old denon CD player (high end unit) 13 year old Denon 3 head Cassette (ditto) Denon DF33 turntable w/ Denon MC cartridge. DBX 3bx expander DBX 120 subharmonic synthesizer + soundcraftmen mosfet amp for subs Pair K-horns 2 Pair Heresy's for surround 2 4 ohm 12" Cerwin Vega subs in custon made cabnets (before the days when subs were easy to get!!) I want to add a computer with a good soundcard for MP3's and a DVD player later What I was thinking was get a scott int amp or separates for the k-horns. If there is enough inputs, run the TT, cassette and CD into the scott. I can also still use the K-horns for surround by using a pre-out from the Denon 5800 into the scott. How much power will I need? The room has a 2 story ceiling and is pretty big. Which Scott should I get and what questions should I ask? I keep hearing about a 299. I need an MC Cartrige input. Please also tell me what the price should be. What I really like now is how "tight" the system sounds (great imaging, crisp highs and no muddy bass). I assume that I will retain that but get "warmer" vocals and mids. Thanks, Chris

So what do you think about the KSS monoblocks? I am obviously new to the tube game. I see that a lot of people reccomend a scott tube receiver. I could use that for the K horns, and run my turntable and DBX 3BX on that, then use the Denon 5800 for digital sources. But then it still seems like the SS "problem" is still there. Quite honestly, the new receiver and K-horns sound great, I am just wondering if there is another level that I am missing. I have one more question. Because the new Denon 5800 receiver has no provision for moving coil phono, I was considering getting rid of my Denon DF33 Turntable and 3bx. Compared to the digital sources, the records sound "flat," even when expanded. (right now I am running the turntable through an older Denon receiver so that the MC phono works). Should I hang on to it? Chris