markmaple

I just picked up RSP-1068 on Monday night. I really like the unit, but I am having a problem. I was getting a hum in my speakers. After much investigating, it happens when I have the multi-channel outputs from the DVD player connected to the Rotel AND I have a video connection from the DVD player to the Rotel. If I disconnect all of the multi-channel outputs or all video connections, the hum disappears. Any thought? I will try to contact Rotel today.

I just got called that it's in. That was fast, order on Friday, receive it on Monday.

I also ordered one on Friday.

--------------------------------------------- DeanG wrote: Im including an option in my pricing to only have the high frequency part of the circuit upgraded, which drops the price substantially. ---------------------------------------------- What are the details of this high frequency option? How much? How is it different from the above listed upgrade?

Is there any problem with having more power to the mains (if I went 200WPC) than the rest of the channels (my current 120WPC)? Is it just a matter of balancing the speakers using a SPL? Also, I bi-amp the center speaker using the extra channel, how is the connection made between the pre/pro and the amp? A "Y" adapter for the interconnect?

Here is my situation. I am currently running 6.1 and don't really plan to go 7.1 in the future. I was using a Denon AVR-2803. About a month ago, I bought a Rotel RMB-1075 (5x120W) amplifier and used the 2803 as my pre-amp. Yesterday, I ordered a Rotel RSP-1068 pre/pro. That leaves without power for my rear center. I don't really consider the rear center channel to be all that important. My questions are: 1. How important is it to match the brand of the amp for the rear center amp to the other 5? 2. How important is it to match the power of the amp for the rear center amp to the other 5? 3. Any suggestions for an inexpensive amp for my rear center. 4. Should I keep my eyes open for maybe the Rotel (2x200) to drive the front left and right?

I have always had the grills off on my RC-7(fr center), RC-3II(rear center) and RS-3IIs. I just replaced the RS-3IIs with RB-35s. I started with the grills off of the RB-35s, but I didn't like the look. On they went.

Which would you recommend if you could get a 1066 (new or used) for say $1000 vs maybe $1600 for the 1068?

I don't know if this matters, but the horn on the RC-7 is a 90 degree x 60 degree horn. Standing them like a tower, makes it 60x90. This would decrease the horizontal coverage. If you are planning on using 2 RC-7s per side, this may not matter. Just another issue to make your decision tougher.

Moon, Have you considered the rear ports on the RC-7s? I'm not sure how much room is recommended behind them, but you probably can't flush mount them like your RS-7s.

Moon, If you were to go with a single RC-7 on each side and a single RC-7 on the back you could come out ahead! You already have two RC-7. A pair of RS-7s go on ebay for between $550-$650. That's about what you would have to pay for the other new RC-7. That still leaves you the other pair of RS-7s to sell or to use as a "B" set of surrounds.

I think Ed was referring to 2 left RC-7s, 2 right RC-7s and 1 rear RC-7. With your room size, I would think one rear would be plenty.

"nice job! I like the movie box. Nice touch!" Thanks. I just built the movie mylar box last week. I definitely need to do something about the ugly white electical cord.

I love the SVS. Since hearing mine, two of my friends have bought SVS subs. They are both happy also.

Thanks Moon! Did you decide if you are sticking with the RS-7s for the side surrounds? I just put my RB-35s up this past weekend. Sounded great with a DVD-Audio. I haven't watched a movie yet with them.

I took pictures of my current HT setup. http://gallery.avsforum.com/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=50506

You could go with 6 RB-25s and RC-35 center. The RB-25s retail $250 each but you should be able to get them for less especially if you are buying a whole setup. The RB-35s are better. They retail for $300 each. I had a authorized dealer offer to sell me a pair for $500 the other day. You could use those up front and the RB-25s for the others if you don't want to spend that much for your surrounds and back speakers. I would suggest the better speakers for your mains. All of these speakers flush mount to the wall except the center channel. You have to spend more to get a good sub. Check out svsubwoofers.com. They are great and are a favorite among many on these forums. They start at $549. Maybe someone else will have some recommendations on less expensive subs.

2004 Saab 9-3 Aero (wife's car) 2002 Toyota MR2 Spyder 1997 Oldsmobille Bravada

Make sure you dealer is giving you a decent discount off of MSRP. I find that dealers will make you a good offer if you just ask "What can you sell this for?" and then they will come down a little more if you work at it. I just listened to so RB-35s the other day. MSRP is $600/pr. I asked what he would sell them for and he easily offered to sell them for $500. 10-20 percent off can go along way in getting better equipment for your budget. The new Denon 3805 sounds little a great receiver. If you want to save a few hundred dollars, dealers ought to be looking to clear out their inventory of 3803 units. With Klipsch speakers you can by with even less of a receiver which can allow you to getting better speakers (a better investment). Unless you really want a changer, you might consider the Denon DVD-2200 (MSRP $600). It's a really nice unit with DVD-Audio and SACD capabilites (if this matters to you). I think you are shorting yourself on you main speakers with the RSX-5. Look into the RB-35s, they do flush mount to walls. I was really impressed them when I auditioned them. The RB-25s sounded good also. For a sub, you might look at SVS's lower end. They are great values. I haven't read many reviews of the Klipsch RW subs, so I can speak for them. SVS's website is svsubwoofers.com. Good luck.

Colterphooto1, thanks for the response. You make a real good point about the fact that the speaker will be vibrating. I hadn't thought of adding a board between the studs. I think this is the way that I will go. The bummer is that I just painted that wall over the last couple of weeks. Oh well!

I just received my RB-35s that I will be using for surrounds. I will be mounting them flush on the walls using the single keyhole on the back. I want to mount over a stud since the speakers weigh 24 lbs each. The problem is the studs on the facing walls are not aligned. I can either have them offset by about 8-9 inches or I can mount one using a wall anchor. What would everyone suggest?

Steelie, I was thinking of the RB35s (over my current RS-3IIs) for improved performance on DVD-Audio and SACDs. Also, HornEd's support of monopole surrounds has me thinking this is a good approach.

I'm thinking of replacing my RS-3II surround speakers with a pair of RB-35 speakers? Where should these be placed? I like the recommended position of the RS-3IIs being 5-6 feet from the floor. If I put RB-35s there, would I want to point them downward to the listening position?

I have been considering upgrading my surrounds and wanted some opinions. I currently have RF7 (L&R) with a RC7 © up front, RS-3II on the side and a RC-3II for a back center. I had been thinking of RS-7 for the sides, but now I'm starting to think about a pair of one of the bookshelf speakers for my side surrounds. I would want them wall mounted similar to my RS-3IIs. This probably eliminates RB-5s due to the rear port, correct? If so, probably the RB-35 or RB-75. Would this approach give me a better set-up vs the RS-3 or RS-7? Can the RBs be mounted to a wall easily and securely? Would you want bookshelfs mounted closer to ear level vs the higher suggested mounting of the RS spearkers? I also can't seem to find the MSRP of these two speakers. Does anyone know those MSRPs?

Is the piece that gets sent in the piece that contains the binding posts? Does the mod change the desire or option of bi-wiring the speakers?