Dome

All, I was wondering what the general consensus is on the TX-NR905 from Onkyo. I have an old TX-DS595 that I purchased several years ago. Despite the fact that I purchased this unit almost 7 years ago and at the time i purchased what I could afford, not necessarily what I wanted, I have been more or less happy with this unit and how it sounded with my Klipsch Rx-3II system. However, technology advanced are forcing an upgrade. Your opinions are appreciated! Thanks, Adam

In the near future I will be purchasing my first sub, a SVS PB-13 Ultra to compliment my Rx-3 system. My question is - are "subwoofer" cables a crock or are they basically just the same thing as a standard RCA cable with a higher pricetag? Sorry for the newb question. Thanks, Adam

I would think 3' would be enough. Just set them next to the tube and inch them away until any effect is gone.

Congrats on the great score! I bet they sound great... and even better for $100! Kinda makes those Synergy's look a little puny now huh.

The slide projector was actually my 3rd choice. I found a sweet deal on ebay for only 8.75!! It even comes with a super highspeed clicker attachment that can provide up to 3 frames per second!! I am really interested in the LCD and DLP, but the slide is definatly a close 3rd!

Interesting... I was under hte impression that RPTV LCD was immune to burn-in. I could definatly be wrong though...

A front projector is really not a practicle application for me at this time. I live in an apartment with a vaulted ceiling in the living room so setting up the projector could be difficult. Also, this will be a multipurpose (only) TV. Someday when I own my own house and can have a dedicated HT room, a front projector would be awesome, but it is not practicle at this time. The main sets I have been looking at are the Sony Grand Wega (RPTV LCD) 42" or 50", or the new Mitsubishi WD-52525 (RPTV DLP) 52" (a little pricey). The Mitsu is a little expensive, but has a built in HDTV tuner and supports that new cable card thing (is that a big deal??). Viewing distance is about 8ft. What are the main things to consider when choosing between DLP and LCD?

I was looking at that 50" Rear Projected LCD Sony Grand Wega. A little under $3000 with SoundTrack's (Ultimate Electronics) Christmas in July sale and I would like to keep the max at around $3000. Burn in is definatly a concern but I hear that LCD's are immune. What about that new LCOS?? Thanks, Adam

Very nice. I think you will be very very happy with that setup.

You can order the woofers from Klipsch parts department. Parts Department Phone Number: 317-860-8100 Toll Free: 800-274-5547 Fax Number: 317-860-9195 E-mail: parts@klipsch.com I believe those woofers cost around $60, but I could be mistaken. As far as RF3 and RF3II differences: The RF3II had a slightly redesigned grill which allowed it to be tipped forward slightly without breaking the pegs... it had stronger feet... the internal wiring, and I hear a rear port that was secured better. That's really it though, nothing major.

Hey om13934, I live in Ft. Collins as well, finishing up my last semester at CSU. It's cool to see another Coloradoan, especially from Ft. Collins. Anyways, Winter Park is a real fun ski resort. Like mentioned above, there are two main mountains, Winter Park and Mary Jane. Mary Jane (majority blacks and blues) leans towards the more advanced area of the two while Winter Park (majority blues and greens) is the easier. Winter Park will probably be decently full on the weekends, but not as much during the week, mostly due to it's slightly less convienent location from Denver (you have to drive over Berthoud Pass to get to it, instead of just shooting up I-70 like most of hte other big resorts). A haven for idiots... I would not say so, I am sure you will all enjoy yourselves. Winter Park: New Snow: 0" Base Depth: 66" - 69" Lifts Open: 18 of 23 Surface Snow: Packed Powder

Turns out the speaker was not blown after all. What had happened is one of the wires coming from the cone to the little tab where hte internal speaker wires are attached had come loose from its solder. The speakers had been playing fairly loud before I noticed this (but not distorting), maybe the air pressure in the cabinet had forced it loose? Anyways, at least its only a minor problem.

I was always led to believe that it made no effect on sound, as long as the dent is not so bad that it could tear under pressure. The dent itself however should not be a problem, save for cosmetically.

I currently have one of my RF3's in the shop for warranty repair on a blown (I guess) tweeter. I can't stand to be musicless so I was listening through my other single speaker and I thought it sounded a little gutless. Upon further inspection, it appears one of the woofers may be malfunctioning. The top woofer on the RF-3 does not move nearly as much as the lower one and there appears to be little to no sound coming out of it. It does move a little though, just not nearly as much as the other one. In another post, I read that if you gently pressed on each woofer (while they are not driving), the bad one should stick or not move as well as the good one. They both appear to move just fine when trying this test. Also, there is no visible damage from the outside. Does this sound like a blown woofer? If so, does anybody know how much a new one costs from Klipsch? These speakers are still under warranty, but it is going on 5 weeks now having my local SoundTrack (ULtimate Electronics) repair my other speaker and I don't know if I want to be without this one for that long. Thanks.

Wow, if I had known there was a set of those speakers in the Denver area for that cheap... I probably would have gotten another set! I got my Rx-3II system at floormodel/closeout prices at the Ft Collins SoundTrack (Ultimate Electronics). I got the mains for $300 a piece (they are actually RF-3's, I got them when the RF-3II's came out). I just this last summer purchased the rest of the package from the Ft. COllins SoundTrack at closeout prices when the new RF-35 line came out. My surrounds were about that price but my center was a little more expensive I think. The mains were floor models and the rest were new. Anyways, I have been extreamly happy with these speakers so far. I was a college student when I bought these so they pretty much maxed out my budget, but I am very happy with them. The RF-5's are way to expensive in my mind for what you get with them (the biggest difference with them is a larger horn... that is it). The woofers are the exact same model as the RF-3II and the tweeter is the same size (1"). If a person is going to pay that much more money over the RF-3's, the RF-7 would be a better price/performance value. Anyways, I think you made the right choice getting those instead of the synergy. Enjoy them! -Adam

To my knowledge, the crossover never changed... just the wire and a few cosmetic changes. Correct me if I am wrong. -Adam

very nice!!

Here is a much smaller (~250k) version of those instructions.

Well, I called Klipsch, expecting them to sell me the diaphram replacement kit but since the speaker is still under warranty, they just told me to call my dealer, SoundTrack (local Ultimate Electronics). I called SoundTrack and they said to just bring it in and they would take care of it. Only problem is that it will probably be 'out' at their service center for 2-3 weeks! UGH!! It's free, but had I known that, I probably would have opted for the kit to replace it myself. At least it is getting taken care of I guess.

Internal Monster Z-series wiring, a slightly modified grill, and stronger feet. The modification on the grill is that the bottom of the II series grill is angled, instead of flush with the bottom of the speaker... so that if the speaker is tipped slightly forward, for whatever reason, it won't rest on the grill and break the pegs off. The feet are supposedly a little bit stronger. Both of these parts are interchangeable (you can buy the stronger feet for the RF-3's). As far as the all the components in the speaker (the drivers and cross over), the specs and the housing.... they are identical (except for maybe that port, this is the first I had heard of that).

---------------- On 2/2/2004 4:53:37 PM lancestorm wrote: And lastly (whew): When I cut the strands, should I make them all of equal length? I wasn't sure how important that was because as I recall receivers set it up regarding distances from the speaker to you, not a matter of how long each cord length is. I hope it never assumes they are all equal. Regardless, what are your opinions on this? Would it be IDEAL to have same length. Or does it really not matter. Thanks a lot bunch. ---------------- I think the equal lengths thing is pretty much a moot point for most home applications. Electricity travels down a wire at well over the speed of sound. Basically, speaker placement is a far bigger issue than the length of the wire. It would probalby take hundreds and hundreds of feet in the difference of the wire to cause an audible difference... but a few feet in speaker placement probalby will cause a problem. The distance settings most recievers have are speaker distance, not wire length. Basically, if you have to put a 25-35ft run to the rear of your room, I wouldnt bother just coiling 25-35ft in the wall for the 10ft or so you might need for your mains. Think of ceiling lights in a house (if you have them). When you turn your lights on, do they all turn on at once or do they turn on in succession?

Today I noticed that there is absolutely no sound coming from one of my RF-3 Tweeters (K-105-K). I checked all the connections and everything looks good. I switched the assembly with my other main speaker and it worked fine, so I guess it is safe to assume the speaker is the problem. So what goes into repairing this. Would this be covered by warranty? How does one go about disassembling one of these speakers. I removed the entire horn assembly and removed the 3 nuts that 'appear' to hold the horn to the magnet. After these were removed, it would not seperate with minor force. I did not want to apply major force with the fear of screwing something up more. I will probably call Klipsch tomorrow but I was just wondering if anybody here had any input. I am really not sure why the speaker blew. All the others are fine and the speakers are being driven by a receiver that comes nowhere near the power capacity of the Klipsch speakers (or is it possible that the receiver was being driven beyond its capacity??). When the music was playing, everything sounded clean and un-distorted... Thanks for your input.

While that is expensive, it does sound about right. I am not up on my EuroDollar and USDollar exchange rates, but I called once about a RF-3II grill, and the price was around $50 US.

It is different, but it is hte same size (1" for the RF-3/5 and 1.75" for the RF-7). The RC-7 center with RS-35 will probably sound great. The center channel is an extreamly important piece of the HT puzzle, but since surrounds carry mostly ambient sounds, having them timbre matched is not nearly as important as the center. I hope you enjoy your new system

The RF-5 is a real 'tweener' speaker. It uses the exact same woofers as the RF-3, it uses the same size tweeter, but it has the same bigger horn used in the RF-7. Klipsch lists both the RC/S-3 as well as the RC/S-7's as matches for the speaker. The RC/S-35 is probably less than a match than the RC-3 is. The new reference speakers sound great, but have a little different sound than the older reference speakers. The RC-7 is an obviously better speaker and probably the best bet here, but I would still try and demo both speakers (with the RF-5).