Jef

Hi, I have had the same problem. The problem can be found in the connector either the male or the female. I replaced the original male connector and the problem was gone. Best regards ... Jef

Hello Alan, sorry but the analogy is correct. Music is not sinusoidal signals only, the complex waveforms can be broken down into sinus signals and inversely if you add multiple sinuses you can get any shape you want, depending on amplitude and phase of the individual atributing signals - as proven by Fourier - but this definitely not mean that all signals are sinuses. Below is an example of a real signal, allthough not really complex. Asuming it is a low frequency, the woofer must accuratly follow the outline to reproduce the sound, as you can see the signal is not symmetrical and the woofer has to manipulated heavily. It takes alot of current if you want to track the outline precisely. You can also see the woofer does not just swing back and forth but has to go out twice at places. The following link leads to a series of excellent articles on sound, signals etc http://eamusic.dartmouth.edu/~book/MATCpages/chap.4/4.9.phys.mod.html Clipping is what happens when the signal flattens at the tops and bottoms because the source cannot provide enough amplitude, this happens most frequently with amplifiers but can also happen with speakers that are pushed beyond their design limits. If the signal contains a flattening, like with a square wave signal, than this is not called 'clipping'. Best regards ... jef

Hi Darren I had written the reply below a few months ago. It is an electro-mechanical explanation to avoid all jargon associated with electronics, in this case inductive-, capacitive loads and complex impedances. ------------------- Power output of amplifiers is given in Watts and when used on a resitive load this covers 'all' as it can be interpreted as heat generation. But a loudspeaker is not a resistor at all. Imagine your 50 Watt amplifier accelerating the woofer outwards then have to stop the moving mass and bring it in again. At the moment the woofer has to be stopped and has to move inwards again a large current is needed to generate a forcefull magnetic field that counteracts the inertia. If your 50 Watt amplifier is 'just' capable of generating the currents associated with the specified resistance - lets say 4 ohm - that would be something like 3.5 Amps (on a resistor). That will bring the woofer back ... eventualy ... Compare this with the 35 Amps capacity of a H/K (or other decent amp), you can immediatly see that the H/K has 10 times more current (read magnetic force) to stop and restart the woofer. So the more current an amplifier can genenerate the more 'control' it has on the moving mass of the woofer cones = a tighter and better controlled bass. The explanation does not take the interaction with the air in the enclosure into account, but the basic idea remains. Hope this helps ... Jef

Glad we could be of assistance. Jef

Hello, the link below will lead you to a dutch site with several older reviews and interviews with P. Klipsch, most in english some dutch and german. http://www.audioimport.nl/redactie.htm Enjoy ... Jef

Hi, I have a Norh tube amp (see below) which I consider a nice entree into the tube world. If I remember correctly the price was 400$ including shipment from Taiwan. site : http://www.norh.com/ You can also check : www.decware.com this site contains lots of tubeamp info. For the tube sound I would go 1 or 2 definitly not 3 Best regards ... Jef

Hello, the link below will lead you to a dutch site with several older reviews and interviews with P. Klipsch, most in english some dutch and german. http://www.audioimport.nl/redactie.htm Enjoy ... Jef

Hi, you should check the connectors on your tweeter. That are snap-on connectors, it is posssible that they make a bad contact. Possibly the cutting in and out is caused by the vibrations of the woofers on that connection. It is an easy check, you will have to unscrew the 8 screws that hold the tweeter. You can also check the crosover for bad contact by carefuly examining the solder points. If these steps don't help then see the reply before me. Best regards ... Jef

Hello, I have never understood the capacitance argument. The capacitance is greater because the 2 wires a physicaly larger. Capacitance is also heavily influeced by the distance between the 2 wires. As far as I can see you only have to separate the wire in 2 seperate pieces, keep them some distance (inches) from each other and the capacitance argument is gone - along with it's effects on high frequencies when using long cables. BTW mr Klipsch had some Dope from Hope articles on the subject. VOL17 no 1 to be more precise. In the test he measured #18 zip cord with a lenght of 40 feet with no audible differences to larger diameter wires. the only aspect I really noticed with cables over the years is the termination. Plain copper wire of sufficient diameter performs perfectly but copper oxydates over time. If you have a solid termination (screw type) the copper on the contact place remains ok untill you have to loosen the terminal. You can avoud this problem by terminating the cable with spades - which are often coated with a thin layer or gold, which doesn't oxidate. You can also opt for cables with 'oxygen free copper' Both solutions are inexpensive. Best regards ... Jef

Hi Moon, with my amp (Denon) the +2 setting would be better than the +5 setting, because the Denon takes this into account when going to max volume - silly argument actualy because your ears would have exploded long before that not to mention the distortion - nevertheless. For the rest it doesn't matter at all. Best regards ... jef

Hi Moon, you put all the individual settings to 'zero'. Then choose the left or right mains and and adjust the Volumeknob untill desired value (lets say 85 dB SPL at your listening spot). Then adjust all the other speakers with the individual settings to the same SPL at your listening spot. execption : if you would have speakers in your setup up which are really much less sensitive (not your case anyway) you might have to start with those and then adjust the rest to them - this in case the individual setting could not be set high enough to reach equal SPL. Best regards ... jef

Hi, the only aspect I really noticed with cables over the years is the termination. Plain copper wire of sufficient diameter performs perfectly but copper oxydates over time. If you have a solid termination (screw type) the copper on the contact place remains ok untill you have to loosen the terminal. You can avoud this problem by terminating the cable with spades - which are often coated with a thin layer or gold, which doesn't oxidate. You can also opt for cables with 'oxygen free copper' Both solutions are inexpensive. Best regards ... Jef

Hello, my friends SF2's grills got ruined beyond repair whilst moving. Checking for new grills I learned that they apparantly cost 100$ pair here in Europe. I wonder what the price of a new pair of grills is in America as 100 $ seems very expensive. Thanks ... Jef

The 'Lost in Hifi' shop in Munster Germany had a pair of KSP-S6's last week for 400$ Best regards ... Jef

I have RF3 II's and after listening for months with the RC3II I chanded to the RC7. Very happy with the decision (and the deal I got from the dealer). IMO the RC3 is a good match for the RB3. The RC7 matches my RF3's perfectly and no doubt the RF5's as well. Best regards ... Jef