formica
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Posts posted by formica
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Got to luv these off topic threads...
I'd say that probably the design compromises are oriented towards the potential client. Home vacuums are about obsessively filtering out the smallest particles (like hepa filters), being relatively silent, useable on many different surfaces (loads of attachments), and not to forget looking “oh, so pretty”. Shop Vacs are about sucking power and durability.
I have a central vac... it’s kinda like a permanently installed shop vac with a finer filter… works for me.
ROb -
Yup, everything is possible... but sometimes thinking outside the
box. I'd pick up some veneered hardwood
plywood (1/8" or 1/4") and simply recover them. You also have to cap the edges with a small square
moulding (which would also allow you to deepen the front edge to recieve a grill) and veneer over that front edge.But that is just me...
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Welcome to the forums... and hobby....
And I'm glad to see someone from Quebec too!
Thanks! There are a few other members from Montreal as well.
Yup, there are several of us devoted freaks on here... [
] ROb
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I'm still green to this... But files are on a 2TB iOmega NAS and I'm streaming through my Oppo...
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He can use a 1/4 headphone to dual rca cable, cheap and easy to find. I'm sure you have a spare rca input.
I too keep one of those pluged into an aux input for all those guests who must have me hear 'their' song...
Works with laptops, iPods , cel phones... -
Nice collection.
If it uses the EV T-35 tweeter, I believe it has the same diaphragm as the Klipsch K-77 which is readily available through Klipsch or Bob Crites on here. I’ve done this replacement myself and a it was a pretty basic DIY project covered on here.
ROb -
Just go in and find the most gullible looking salesman (and same shirt size) and butter him up with some BS that you love bose and looking to set up room number 3 and that you just love their shirts and would love to get one and would be proud to wear one. See where it leads?
Perhaps it'll get you dinner and a date?...[:|]
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I sure wouldn't mind stashing / working on one of those Holden Ute's in one of those sheds...Blokes have "The Shed" it's where you dismember the car, have shadow boards for your Spanners and keep the mower.
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Shooting a 118" image on a stretched sheet and it looks amazing! I can't stop grinning! It's huge and I love it!
And who ever said "size doesn't count"?... [
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It's very much like the US's black Friday... Unless you want to wait outside at 4-5am to try and pick up a loss leader, I personally don't feel it worth braving the CROWDS....
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My wife told me I had to get rid of my Klipschorns... I had no choice so I got rid of the wife, and bought a second set...
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Why not rip them in FLAC?...
http://blog.bowers-wilkins.com/speakers/definitive-guides/the-definitive-guide-to-24-bit-flac/
Rip: EAC or Exact Audio Copy : http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/
Play: Foobar 2000 : http://www.foobar2000.org/ -
I made the jump when i went to a multitude of big amps. You can never have enough capacitance.
Are there comparible others that offer up that kind of power flexibility? I'm looking to upgrade power amps eventually (no where near your amperage)... but i'm already border line on my 20amp circuit...
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Even though i have a much older Panny unit (same series)... I bought a generic "compact" model given head clearance issues... and all is sitting pretty 5yrs later...
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I personnally don't feel it's a bad idea... but rather I feel it's hard to have a single "one size fits all" solution for subwoofer placement given the location of the room modes will vary greatly according to room geometry and dimensions. As mentioned in the other thread, putting the sub in your listening position and crawling around to find the best spot is quite an effective way of placing it optimally.
I feel standards are there to facilitate placement for those who aren't overly concerned with "ideal" and tweaking it isn't their cup of tea. In that case, corner placement will be the loudest due to boundary gains... and mid wall will generally be flatter... but not necessarily so.
You should give Todd Welti white paper on subwoofer placement a read, as it gives a very detail comparison of many placement options.
http://www.harman.com/EN-US/OurCompany/Technologyleadership/Documents/White%20Papers/multsubs.pdf
Another interesting read would be this collection of placement articles :
http://forum.blu-ray.com/subwoofers/48286-guide-subwoofers-part-ii-standing-waves-room-modes.html
And with all that said, my subwoofer mouths are on either side of my centre channel since I use corner horns and wanted to have symmetrical placement of my subwoofers up front. I may not benefit as much from room gain, but I make up for it with displacement.
ROb
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I did use the SPL Meter app for iPhone (since I can never get around to buying the RS meter) but it's supposed to be "more accurate than the Radio Shack meter".
I seriously doubt that, especially in the low bass. And frankly, even the Rat Shack meter is horribly unreliable in the low bass, although there are some correction tables floating around.
Question is: is the sub level on the test signal seriously supposed to be @ 75db as well?
Yes, but your phone isn't a useful tool in measuring whether you're actually at 75dB or not.
Bonus question: does anyone actually watch movies at 'reference level' at home?
-20dB is as high as I go.
Ditto StephenM... I doubt the iphone has a very flat responce which is key when balancing mains to subwoofers... The mic is geared to to sendering clear voice phone calls. I can say from experiance that video clips recorded with my iPhone have almost no bass. ROb
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My understanding is there won't be a big difference with BD performance... It's major advantages lie I the way it handles non bluray material... Such as upscaling DVDs , or playing other files (flac, mkv, etc...). It also has analog outputs (discontinued/banned on all 2011 models) for those who are using older processors...Is there lots of video processing going on if you are not displaying legacy content like DVD? The Bluray audio bits are sent as-is to the receiver for decoding, so I assume that the 1080p video bits are being sent as-is (unless you overlay a menu by pressing a button) to the display. What makes this better than a $200 unit that can get the bits off the BD disk?
Like myself at the moment... DVDs 6 channel input and HDMI straight to the projector...ROb
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Actually the smaller 106" yiels 100" diagonal on 2.35;1, so smaller than your 104". How far back do you sit?
I'm sitting (front row) about 10' back... sometimes a bit less if I'm using the second row... the technical sweet spot of my klipschorns is at only 8'. I never really calculated out my viewing "angles" ... but my room shape and size limited me to that size in both height and width. I feel it produces an immersive experience in my HT, although in your situation, I too would be tempted to go with the bigger one.
If you were closer, I'd recommend you pass by and check it out yourself...
ROb
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He wants them spread out. As long as this is a good design, i will use it.
Djk recommend running four tapped horns as a block because their SPL will be additive. If you ran them spread apart, you run the risk of most probably having cancellations (common at those frequencies) due to room acoustics, and a lower overall spl.
The LaScala comments refer to the Klipsch Lascala box (plans are available elsewhere on here) ... a pretty simple build and is one of the speakers that used the K43... efficient, BUT it will not go very low (less than the MWM) as shown on the graphs.
As mentioned, buying a true Subwoofer or subwoofer drivers will give you better low frequency performance.
ROb -
Pros and cons of the bigger screen:
Pro:
- 64% bigger area than the 106-inch on 2.35:1 content!!
Cons:
- I would never unroll the whole screen (but only I know that, really).
- The image would always be very close to the ceiling (does it matter when it's dark?)
- The 118-inch wide projected image for 2.35:1 is a stretch for the projector (so the image contrast won't be as good).
- At the edge of being too big.
- the bottom bar of the screen is 137 inches and would block the door to the kid's room completely. They would have to push against the screen to get by it if it were lowered (The 106" screen blocks half the door, so they might be able to scoot by).
- $1450 more expensive after taxes.
Although I can't speak for being "to big" given my screen is smaller than the your smaller option (a 2.35:1 at about 104") ... but I can say I don't regret using the lens shift and having the image skimming the ceiling as this is what I did in order to maximize the size with my lower ceilings.
Two idiosyncrasies though:- I should have used flat black paint for the ceiling. Even though I used a very low sheen black, I can see that sheen because of the projector, although I wouldn't call it distracting. Next time it's going to be flat.
- I don't know if this is true for blu-ray (or others) but my DVD player's onscreen operational status symbols (like pause, play, etc) as well as subtitles are projected onto those black bars because it assumes you have a 16:9 screen. So when I'm zoomed in at 2.35 they will project either onto the ceiling or the centre channel / sub rack.
Neither are deal breakers for me...
It's unfortunate for that door placement though. Let us know what you decide on...
ROb -
I am also considering
the Oppo 93 ($500ish), and am wondering if there is a better BR machine choice
in that price area.... and it seems to garner very good reviews on the video
(especially WRT scaling).
I'm in the same boat as you... and when it comes to video, I've
been reading the exact same thing with respect to it's scaling. I've been putting it off, but it does seem to
be the facto in blu-ray players at the moment... have you been looking at any others?
And as far as I know, the difference with the 95 are the upgrades
to the analog audio side of things ...
ROb
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My sincere condolences Rick… I remember the feeling all to well...
Take care... ROb -
There is really not enough Xmax or excursion on those woofers for them to be used effectively as subwoofers. They are designed to perform optimumly in the horn loaded enclosure where the driver is loaded and does not need massive excursions to get very loud.
If you are looking to build a conventional subwoofer out of those, I unfortunately agree with Frzinvt... as they were designed more as mid bass drivers, even though they do go "relatively" low in their horn loaded cabinet. Do you have the T/S parameters handy? You can plug those into a freeware box design program like WinISD which will give you the optimal box size and expected bass extension:
I too am feeling you could sell the whole MWM as a unit, and pickup some nicer subwoofer drivers with the $...
ROb
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Ask, and one shall receive… a 3D version from Marvel (beautifully done i may add)…
http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/files/ls_k.jpg
and a thread that shows the construction as well as the plans (look on page three)…
http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/96818.aspx?PageIndex=1
What are you looking to do?ROb
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OT: Did you ever have a teddy bear?
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
I had one... a very simple baby-blue and white bear... and unsurprisingly my mum hung onto it, returning it to me a while back. He's now sleeping comfortably in one of my dresser drawers, ready to pounce... incase.
wow... what can i say... [:|] ...
ROb