AlexI

One more question. I was trying to fill some chips and dents with plastic wood (I used "natural"). Unfortunately its clor does not much the color of the wood well enough. If I oil the speakers would it make this color difference more pronounced or less? Thanks.

I'm not sure. I touched the bottom of one speaker with the sand paper and I can't feel any difference between this surface and the surface that I did not touch. Does it meant that I have just a raw wood without any finish? Thanks,

Ive got Cornwall model CII BR. Does it meant that its Cornwall II in Birch finish? Birch finish means that its raw wood. Is it correct? Can I apply BLO to it? Thanks.

Tony, Trey, Thanks. There are red dots on the squawkers. I will contact Klipsch for the schematics. Thanks again. Alex

Ray, Thanks a lot for your detailed explanation. From the electrical test I figured out that the woofers were not in phase. Looks like squawkers are in phase, otherwise they would cancel each other. Now I need to check if the squawker and the woofer in the same speaker are in phase, looks like a tough one.

Just got my Cornwalls and their sound is terrible. It looks like drivers are not connected in phase. I could not find any polarity marking on the tweeter, midrange and woofer. I know how to test it on the woofer but have no idea about midrange and tweeter. Please help. Thanks.

My speakers are RP-3( the same tweeter& midrange as in RF3), RS-3, RC-3. I was driving them with Yamaha RX-V 1000 that I recently replaced with Marantz Sr-19. I compared Yamaha with Denon-2803 and Marantz SR-7200 ( I had each in my listening room at least for a week). They were equally good. SR 18 was slightly better.

Scott, My RP-3s has a lot of bass because they have powered woofer, but the bass is a bit boomy and not accurate. Fortes II as far as I understand have sealed enclosure with passive radiator. How do they sound on the lower end? Thanks.

j-malotky, Thanks for your input. I have not heard that much about Chorus. It looks like in terms of bass management they have ported enclosure like Cornwall but passive radiator like Forte. Does it make them sound a bit better than Cornwall? Could you beamp them?

I did not find a lot of info here that allows to compare Cornwall with Forte. I actually looked at what models of Klipsch speakers folks here are using in 2 channel system and made this conclusion. May be it is not very accurate statistics.

The Hobit, Tony: Thanks for your input. I've got the same impression looking at different systems that people have here.

I was going to replace my RP-3 with Fortes, but noticed that Carnwalls are more popular in this forum than Fortes. According to spec Fortes can go slightly lower 32Hz vs 38Hz and a bit more linear. On the other hand they are 3db less sensitive and have a different buss management system. Is it why they are less regarded?

I was going to replace my RP-3 with Fortes, but notice that Carnwalls are more popular in this forum than Fortes. According to spec Fortes can go slightly lower 32Hz vs 38Hz and a bit more linear. On the other hand they are 3db less sensitive and have a different buss management system. Is it why they are less regarded?

Dave: In this case you should not hear any difference unless there is something wrong with Yamaha. The major difference between your Yamaha and Sony is the D/A circuit (digital to analog converter). When you connect your DVD player to your receiver via optical or coaxial cables you bypass the D/A circuit in the DVD player and let the D/A circuit in the receiver to do the job of converting digital signal into analog. In this case you should not hear the difference in the sound quality when you switch from Yamaha to Sony because you are using the same D/A circuit.

What output are you using? If you are using optical output then the sound quality should be identical. If you are using analog than you should here the difference.

All DVD/CD combos are dual laser machines. They use for DVD 650nm laser and 750nm laser for CD.

Craig, Dflip, As far as I understand I need to replace only two tubes. I use my Scott with CD player only. It means that only tubes in preamp section are working two other in phono stage are idle and dont draw any current. I can have different efficiency tubes in preamp and phono. Is it correct? Thanks. Alex

One GE and one British made (not Amperex). Both old stocks but in a good shape. Two unidentifiable new tubes, I presume Chinese.

Craig, Im sorry for misspelling your name. Alex

Creig, My typical listening level is 4-5. At this level the amp probably operates in ClassB 60-80% of the time anyway. Do you have any experience with Svetlana 12AX7? What tubes would you recommend? Thanks,

Im going to replace 12AX7 tubes in the preamp section of my Lk-48. According to reviews Sovtek 5751 are reasonably good (performance/price) tubes. Yet they have 30% lower gain than that of 12AX7. Anybody has experience with 5751 in LK 48, 222C or 299? Thanks for your help.

Doug:I think I will follow your advise and try to find a pair on e-bay with a seller in my area. Thanks. Alex

Doug, RP-3 has powered woofer. Its not very accurate and sometimes boomy. What about Fortes? Do they have enough basis? Is there any difference between Forte and ForteII? Thanks. Alex

Im satisfied with my HT, but Im trying to improve my stereo system. Im not satisfied with Rp-3 midrange and the transition between midrange and basis is not smooth enough.

The problem is that I have not heard Forte or any other heritage speakers.I was inspired by comments on this site and reviews .