PhilMays Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 Off the cusp, does anyone have an idea what it will cost to intsall a 21 x 16 drop ceiling? The grid work is really what I'm after as I'll most likely buy the tile myself as I want something nice if I'm doing this. Yeppers, what I wanted to do is simply too complicated and may look bad as theire are several different "elevations" in the ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 I used to use 2x2's and 3/4 plywood to build a box around the obstruction and then drywall over it. Framing around obstacles with ceiling track is even more difficult and the results frequently aren't as pretty as one would want. When remodeling a home, always consider what it will do to the selling price and what the next guy will think of the work. I'd drywall it properly or leave it alone, but that's just my opinion. I know Picky has a perfectly functional, acoustically correct, vibration free, well lit drop ceiling. But he went to a lot of pains to get it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eskimo1 Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 IMO, it can look nice. My neighbor has a drop ceiling that I REALLY had to look closely at to even tell it wasn't a regular ceiling. Each tile is made to look like several smaller tiles.. It really blew me away... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Just don't use a drop ceiling in a room with a POTENT sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMays Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 I'm still totally up in the air on this room. I guess I'll install a drop ceiling based on utilities above the tile. I'm now leaning towards taking a wall down and making a large 40 x 21 room with a bar, etc. as the original intent was going to be a 21 x 16 theater, but dang that's small. The remaining room is almost a waste in the configuration downstairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picky Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 PhilMays: Please refer to my other recent post about suspended ceilings here: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/114609.aspx It really was not difficult to acheive an outstanding ceiling in our space. I used a standard steel grid system I purchased from Lowes or Home Depot and painted it flat black to match our tiles. The grid was actually quite cheap and a lot easier to put up than I'd expected. Be sure to buy one of those cheap grid installation kits as they help a lot. Be sure to rivet the terminal ends to the bordering wall grids; this solidifies the overall system and ensures a rattle-free system. Remember: In order to have a rattle or a buzz occur requires there to exist relative movement between two similar materials. Elimination of those factors, prevent rattles a buzzes frorm happening. That's how we engineer cars and trucks now too and they are much quieter for it, for the most part. The real secret is to use the correct ceiling tile material! And I discuss what we used in the linked thread which also includes a product brochure. It is rather expensive material, but it is, after all, a high performance acoustical product. With an electric knife and some patience while cutting, you can put up the whole ceiling system in less than a day (depending on room size and complexity) on a weekend. I hope this helps you. I actually prefer the suspended ceiling to drywall. It's a real performer! Just ask Colterphoto1, IndyKlipschFan, Dr.Who, Michael Hurd, Dizrotus, NOS Valves, j-malotky, dkp and others what they thought about the sound of the room! And, by the way: We have a VERY potent RSW-15 sub in our room with RF-7s: No problem! -Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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