picky

D-Rex: I agree with the majority of solutions our fellow forum members above have suggested. Another area of possible contingency that was not really mentioned is "Bandwidth". It sounds to me as if your display is possibly not a "Smart TV", is this so? I believe it may not be because you did not mention using WiFi, nor a CAT6 cable directly top the TV. I assume this is why you are streaming via your DVD player. If this is so, that is fine. However, if I am mistaken and your TV is a smart TV, by all means, please do connect a good CAT6e cable to your TV and possibly eliminate some of your latency issues with your video feed. Since the pandemic began, Internet provides have needed to go to "Throttling" their bandwidth, so there's enough to go around. This is because over half of our workforce is now working from home and kids are schooling virtually. For example, my son has a family of 4. He and his wife are both very connected with their portable devices as well as video streaming, etc. My son is also a gamer. They have two teenaged kids who both are connected at the hip to the Internet. Plus, their son is a gamer as well. Their bandwidth draw was akin to a well going dry. If they were to get a dog, they'd probably name it "Latency". Three weeks ago, my son had the provider install Gigabit service (1,000 mbps). HUGE difference! In my situation, there are simply my bride and I, but we too are heavily connected to the web. We had 400 mbps service for quite a number of years, but lately we have been noticing the throttling and pixilation on our displays there used to never be an issue. Just this week, we upgraded to 600 mbps and there is a marked difference! Just a suggestion to consider.Best of luck! - Glenn

I agree. When I suggested a Heresey IV, my intention was that it is to be used upright. I probably should have been more precise. - Glenn

Me too! - Glenn

Perhaps, I'm way off base, but why not try a Heresey IV? It has a larger squawker, similar to the Forte and a lower profile.

DizRotus: Claude's Livingroom coffee table sub Gradation scale: Audiophile Enjoyment Level (AEL): +8 Wife Approval Factor (WAP): -7 - Glenn Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk

buddyjenkins: Welcome to the forum! I too, had to have my RSW-15's power amp repaired after about 14 years of service. It turned out to be that the 15" driver's voice coil had developed some shorts in it. It caused the capacitors on the amp's power supply section to explode, along with a power transistor or two. I purchased a NOS 15" driver from the Klipsch parts department and had a local technician repair the amp. I used to run the sub on standby all of the time. But since the repair, I have opted to turn the sub on and off each time it is used in hopes of gaining some longevity. When I reassembled the sub, I left the original fiberglass insulation inside. I am very familiar with the mineral wool-type insulation of which you speak as it is similar to the Rockwool. I am currently using mineral wool to isolate my son's new dedicated home theater we are nearly done building. The mineral wool is amazing at helping to block sound between walls. It is very dense. It never occurred to me to use it inside my sub or any other speaker enclosure. My question for you is, if you go through with using the Rockwool in your sub, what differences are you expecting to be able to notice? -Glenn

Kentucky Gentleman: Welcome to the forum! If to do not plan to add ATMOS to your room, I would suggest you consider Di-Pole side surround speakers. However, if you do plan on incorporating ATMOS speakers into the mix, then I would recommend using direct speakers as you referred to them. This is the same recommendation given by Dolby. Best of luck! - Glenn

JLB: First of all, welcome to the forum! I experience the exact same issue in my theater. I have a Samsung UHD 75" and an older Pioneer Elite Flagship receiver. Because my receiver is older, I purchased it in 2004, it does not have HDMI connections. Therefore, in order to process the return audio from my screen while using streaming services such as Netflix and Disney+, I do the same thing as you: I send the audio feed to my Pioneer over the Digital optical (Toslink) cable. When entering Netflix (or Disney+) I initially hear the sound during the Splash Screen and show titles. But when I actuate "Play" to run the movie, the sound briefly interrupts and suddenly, I hear this loud "POP"! Not great for tweeters!! To counteract this, I used to shut off the receiver and turn it back on. I stopped doing that when I discovered it is much less hard on the receiver to simply switch the receiver's input selector to another device such as CD or VCR 1 before hitting "Play" until I see the movie start and then go back to the Optical input. I immediately hear normal sound and no "POP"! I have to believe this abrupt noise is caused by a "handshake" issue between the TV and receiver because I am not using the HDMI audio directly as my return sound. Yes, it's a pain in the butt, but until I have several grand to replace my legacy receiver, I can live with it. I hope this helps you. Best of luck! - Glenn

HTXNeewbie: Welcome to the forum!! I understand that you are building a 5.1.4 In-wall system with a budget of $1500-$2000 for all speakers and subs and placing them in a 17'x14' room and you'd like to know what is the best. Please let me start by saying that your budget (no offense intended) may prove to be unrealistic. Given the compromises exhibited by most in-wall systems, and there are several, you may be hard-pressed just to purchase the 5 speakers needed for LCR and Surround duties alone. In order to try and gain the "best" performance from in-wall and in-ceiling speakers, I would recommend you consider units which have at least, 8" woofers. The least expensive Klipsch in-wall with an 8" woofer is the R-3800-W II priced at $384 each. Five of them would cost $1,920+tax and any shipping: Boom: You're over two grand. For ceiling speakers, I would recommend the CDT-2800-C II at $304 each. Four of them would set you back another $1,216 + Tax and any shipping. $1,920+$1,216=$3,136. Finally, the minimum size sub I would recommend for a room that size (17'x14') would be a 12" Sub, but it really may need a 15". There is one Klipsch in-wall sub with two 8: drivers, the RW-5802-II, however it may not be available as there is no price currently listed. Currently, Klipsch has their SPL Series subs on sale: The 12", SPL-12 is $449.00 ($3,136+$449=$3,585) and the 15", SPL-15 is $749.00. ($3,136+$749=$3,885) Naturally, there are many other smaller-sized Klipsch in-wall speakers (and subs) that have smaller drivers and prices, but they would most-likely be an additional compromise in performance, which may prove to be a deviation away your "Best" metric. I hope this information helps to get you started in your decisions. Best of luck! -Glenn

Duncan: I am definitely, not a hater of RF-7's. My own 7.1 home theater is based on RF-7 I's. My rooms dimensions are small, too (11.5'w x 19'd). In looking at veera's 12.5' x 14.5' room, I recommended that Heresey 4's be considered over the towers because of the shallow depth of the room. With your room and mine being somewhat deeper, in my humble opinion, there's a bit more time for driver convergence to occur than in veera's. My seating distance for front row is 10 feet from the motorboards with 9 feet remaining behind the seats. As I'd stated in my post, my son's room is nearly identical in size to veera's and his 3, Heresey III's coupled with two 15" SW-115 subs really rock it! I also agree with pretty much everything you mentioned in your post above regarding not being able to crank the speakers up to their full potential in a room that size, which is why I believe my son's smaller Hereseys are such a good choice for a room smaller than ours. Plus, he has the added advantage of 3 Hereseys in an L-C-R array across the front, thereby making them timbre-matched while still clearing the bottom of the video screen. My son's screen is an 82" which hangs fairly low on the wall. -Glenn

JoeJoeThe3rd: I'm happy you found my post to be of some help. Please let us know how you made out, as well as what your opinion is of the machine you chose. -Glenn

JoeJoeThe3rd: I too, was interested in getting an Oppo. However they vacated the disc player market (at the top of their game, I might add) a couple of years ago (Samsung has vacated the disc player market as well) and newer offerings from various manufactures have more advanced features and updated video codec compliances than the older Oppo's. One machine, in particular that some reviewers have claimed to have matched Oppo's playback (video and audio) quality is the Panasonic UB-9000 4K UHD Disc Player ($999). However, being on a budget, I opted for the 9000's little brother, the Panasonic UB-820 4K UHD Disc Player ($499). I bought it a few weeks ago during Prime Day from Crutchfield for $100-off ($399)! It's a wonderful machine and the primary difference between it and its big brother is that the UB-9000 has superior build-quality: The 9000 weighs17 pounds! The UB-820 weighs 5 pounds. The 9000 has an onboard DAC and HDMI, Discrete Analog, Optical and Coaxial Audio output. The 820 has HDMI, discrete Analog and optical, no coaxial. For the money, the UB-820, especially if you can find it on sale, is the best buyer's choice, in my humble opinion. For a review on my findings on the Panasonic UB-820, please refer to the link to my post in AndreG's post above. Happy shopping! Best of luck! -Glenn

veera: Welcome to the forum!! Your room dimensions are nearly identical to the room my son and I are currently building in his basement. We're actually into our second year of construction and nearly finished. The Covid-thing set us back six months due to quarantine and the year before I had two knee replacements. Elsewise, we should have been done quite a while ago. I agree that you may want to consider a different approach to your LCR (Left, Center Right) speaker choices rather than towers. In my son Bill's room, he has 3, Heresey III's for LCR separated by 2, SW-115 Subwoofers and they sound awesome! I would recommend going with the newer, Heresy 4's as they were not available yet when we started Bill's room. The sound will never be better than when you have 3, timbre-matched speakers across the front! Be sure to use the floor cradles that come with them. Bill's system is a 7.2.4 ATMOS setup. He's running the amazingly low-priced, Denon AVC-X6500H, AVR and it seems to handle the system extremely well. He has an 82" Samsung QLED 6 series, UHD screen that feels optimal in the room. We skewed the side walls a total of 8 inches on each side (narrow at the screen wall, wide along the rear wall) in order to manage the bass energy and it works great! As for surrounds, Bill went with in-wall speakers due to their placement options and the fact that they really blend into the room well. If you are considering ATMOS, then I would recommend using Klipsch R-5800-W II, or R-5650-W II speakers for side and rear surrounds. If you don't want ATMOS, then substitute the side surrounds for a dipole speaker such as the R-5650-S II and use R-5650-W II for the rears. As for ceiling speakers, Bill choose the highly-regarded, CDT-5800-C II's. We used mineral wool insulation in all walls and ceilings and an acoustic membrane over the studs and joists onto which we hung 1/2" drywall on the walls. As for the ceiling, we just hung the track ceiling's L-Channel perimeter and are awaiting delivery of the Sonex Harmoni acoustic ceiling panels, which have a 3-week wait on delivery due to setbacks caused by the virus. We will hang the ceiling grid upon their arrival. Then Bill's room will be nearly complete! Best of luck and happy shopping! -Glenn

Kababayan: Welcome to the forum!! In my humble opinion, from your description of the sound being thin, it is quite possible that when you connected your speaker wires from your amplifier/receiver to the rear terminals of your speakers, that it is possible that one or more of the wires were not connected in proper phase with all of the connectors. In other words, the (+) Red terminals must be connected to the (+) Red terminals at both ends and the (-) Black terminals must be connected to the (-) Black terminals at both ends, while observing proper polarity within the speaker wires. Your wire might be labeled with pluses and minuses, or one wire might be silver and the other gold or the insulator might be red and white or black and white, etc. But, be certain that regardless of the type of markings, the same marking is used at both ends for the same terminal color! It's also important to use the correct wire thickness as very thin wire will limit the power output from your amp to the speakers, especially in runs of 20 feet or more. Try to stick with wire sizes that are either, 16, 14 or 12 gauge, with 12 being the largest and 16 being the smallest. I do not recommend speaker wire smaller than 16 gauge, such as 18, 20 and the like. Best of luck! -Glenn

Loudio: Frist of all, welcome to the forum!! I agree with Willland: It appears to be a portion of the old Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 Ultra system, which was a complete 5.1 setup and which I have had the pleasure of owning. It looks like it may be two of the 4 satellites and the center channel speaker. The system also originally came with an 8" powered subwoofer that contained amplification for all of the satellites and center channel. It was originally released by Klipsch around 2001-2002. It worked extremely well as a computer sound system. I hope this helps. - Glenn BTW: Good one Mallette! LOL