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Help hooking up the CS Ultra and amp


mrseamus

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As I anticipated, I am having trouble connecting my receiver (Pioneer 1016) and the Gem Sound amp to the SVS CS Ultra. I pulled to subwoofer cable that was plugged into the Sub 12 and placed it into one of the RCA ports on the back of the Gem Sound Amp. I have tried this both on a single channel and bridged. I appear to be getting only a minimal signal to the amp. (Less than 5 watts). This all seemed pretty basic, however, obviously I am not doing something right. I do intend on upgrading the amp, however, I wanted to be able to hear the sub so I could measure the difference.

Any assitance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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You have the receivers subwoofer output RCA cable (which was working fine on your old sub) hooked into the external amplifiers input correct? How do you have the sub hooked to the amp? Are there any switches on the back of the amp and if so, what are they labled?

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That is correct. The RCA Cable to the amp's input. I can pull it out an put it back in the Sub 12 and all is well so I know it is not the cable. The amp is connected to the CS Ultra with 16 gauge speaker wire from the L channel binding posts to the binding posts on the bottom of the sub.

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Your amplifier needs a much higher signal than the amplifier in the Sub-12. You need to go into your receiver's menu and increase the subwoofer output level and/or raise the input levels on the amplifier itself if it has them (I looked online and couldn't tell if it does or not, I'm assuming it does).

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If there are no DIP switches on the back of the amp, I don't know what's wrong. Are you sure you have a good amp? Why don't you try using your L or R ft preamp output for a source, go from there to your amp and from your amp to one of your speakers. That would eliminate the SVS as being bad. At that point, you've eliminated all possible variables but the amp.

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Ok. The gemsound has no dip switches, but there are two knobs on the front. I am assuming gain? The range goes clockwise from 33 - 0 on each. I have tried them all the way up and all the way down. No change. There is also a bridge switch on the back. I have also tried that in both positions with no change. The subwoofer is activating but there is no umph at all. When I listened to it before I bought it everything appeared to be working properly. This is not likely a sub problem is it? What is to a passive sub other than the woofer and binding posts?

I have a Dayton subwoofer sitting in the shopping cart of my Parts Express account. I don't mind pulling the string for a new amp if I have to, but I would hate to think that the sub is bad. That thought hurts.

I am going to try adjusting the output signal to the sub to see if that makes a difference. My wife hates when I do this.......

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I would run your amp in bridged mode for sure and make sure you're connecting the speaker wires correctly on the amp. I know on my Samson amp when its in bridge mode you actually use the positive connection from one channel and the positive connection for the other channel instead of using any of the negative outputs. There should be some kind of diagram that shows how to connect the speaker wires correctly in bridge mode. Also, its a good idea to make sure the amp is switched off when you're changing between bridged and stereo modes.

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CEC

Not to sound stupid, but I have no idea what a DVOM is.....I checked my voltage meter just in the event it had an OHM setting. It does not. I am assuming I will have to buy one?

Wuzzer:

I thought about running the speaker wires from each channels positive terminals, but the manual says when running in bridged mono output to run the one speaker into either the upper left or upper right binding post. I decided not to attempt it the other way because I don't want to do damage to the sub.

Could this be a power supply problem as I have the amp, receiver and all components plugged into an APC surge protector. Perhaps I should run the amp on a different circut? I know reading this post is getting very boring, however, your continued help is greatly appreciated. I know this must be a simple fix.

Should I just go ahead and purchase the Dayton HPSA - 1000 from Parts Express? If I was certain this would fix the problem, I would do it in a minute. I would hate to think there is something wrong with the sub.

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Sorry, it's a Digital Volt Ohm Meter. You can usually pick one up for 20 bucks or so and are very handy to have. What we're trying to do is make sure that the voice coil on your SVS isn't shorted or open. When you attatch the leads and set your meter to Ohms you should see 4 Ohms resistance. I'm just guessing on the reading as I don't know for sure what the impedance is on that driver, but a reading of 2, 4 or 8 is what I would expect to see. Any of those readings will be fine, and then you'll also know what load your amp will see. If you see an open reading, which is the same as if your leads were hooked up to nothing, then the problem is in the sub, not the amp. A 2, 4, or 8 Ohm reading lets you know that your sub is OK and you need to look elsewhere for your problem.

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