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refinishing oak clear?


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I bought a pair of oak clear Forte IIs and one of them has some issues. Nothing bad, into the veneer but some staining (for lack of a better word) so I'm wondering what I can do to fix them. I did a search and came up with a few oak oil fixes but nothing for oak clear. They have a lacquer coat from the factory so I'm wondering if in the end if I strip them and re-oil them I'll end up with more of a oak oil in the end.

Any advice would be helpful!

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I've got an email to the original owner about the areas circled in red. I have not seen them in the flesh so I'm asking if the areas that are circled are more staining or if the damage is into the veneer.

I bought these pretty right, so I think I can fix them and come out OK on the deal. I was looking for something to fix up. I'm also looking at a pair of Heresy that need a little help but the drivers all are good, just the cabinets need some work. 1977s if memory serves me right. My wood working skills are pretty weak but if I don't ever start I'll never get better.

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Well I too am no expert, but here is what I did. My Chorus II, which are solid wood, no veneer, were purchased in the clear oak. When I brought them home my wife said that they did not match our decor. I got some very very fine sand paper and some steel wool. First I sanded then used then steel wooled them down to a bare finish. I got a hand rubbed stain "golden oak" and followed the directions and they turned out beautiful. I was abel to use the had rub stain right in my family room with just a big piece of cardboard to cover the rug. No big spilling or splashing problem with the hand rub because it is more like a paste. GOOD LUCK.

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Well I too am no expert, but here is what I did. My Chorus II, which are solid wood, no veneer, were purchased in the clear oak. When I brought them home my wife said that they did not match our decor. I got some very very fine sand paper and some steel wool. First I sanded then used then steel wooled them down to a bare finish. I got a hand rubbed stain "golden oak" and followed the directions and they turned out beautiful. I was abel to use the had rub stain right in my family room with just a big piece of cardboard to cover the rug. No big spilling or splashing problem with the hand rub because it is more like a paste. GOOD LUCK.

Unless you know someone at the factory your Chorus IIs are MDF with clear oak veneer!

But your advice is what I had in mind. But my question is how do I get them back to a oak clear after I sand/steel wool them?

Some sort of lacquer brushed on, or sprayed on?

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If it is oak clear that you want then after you have them stripped to bare veneer, you can just put on a high quality furniture oil on them to bring out the grain. That would be oak clear I would think.

I thing that is more of an oak oil look.

Come on you refinish experts give me some advice!

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Do some tests. Try a rub on polyurathane or a laquer. Don't put any oil or finish restrore products on them are you will have a nice pair of OOs. I have some birch LSs that I just keep naked. If I put anything other than a poly on them they start to turn golden in color. I think that is what you are trying to avoid as well.

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Just do the bad one first and run a couple of tests on the bottom. You never know, you might find a product that produces a pefect match and then you wont have to refinish the good one. If not, it doesn't take too long to sand them down. I'm sure they will look great when your done and its more fun that way, knowing you made something better.

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