subw00fer Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 I just received the RC-35 and it plays sound but the voices or dialog seems to be really quiet and muddled. I also just received RB-35s and they sound perfect so I changed the center speaker to the Left wiring and it was still muddled. I have a Yamaha 2400 receiver and I ran the auto setup for my speakers and double checked the wiring and the couplings on the back of the speaker. What could be wrong? I really hope its not an issue with the speaker itself. Luckily I did get it insured with USPS when it was shipping by another seller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 5, 2010 Moderators Share Posted April 5, 2010 Since you swapped speaker inputs and the center still sounds muffled as a "left" main speaker, it eliminates the receiver as being the problem. Does anyone know of a test CD that has some frequency swoops that he can download? I wonder if that would help determine if a component might be bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 5, 2010 Moderators Share Posted April 5, 2010 I also just received RB-35s and they sound perfect That is music to my ears. [8] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samson Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Are the jumpers connected on the rear binding posts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 It sure sounds like the voice coil on the horn tweeter is bad. I also sounds like you have checked the jumpers at the input cup. From your comments I trust these are not new units. Some, some, sellers get rid of speakers when there is a problem. The only way to be sure is to open it up. Then check connections. There are rare cases where the drive structure has been torn off the horn in the course I believe there are automotive type push on connections to the driver. Make note of those. If you want to, you should check the resistance across the terminals with an ohm meter. If you're not familiar this process we can help you. You should call 1-800-Klipsch and ask about availability of a replacement diaphragm assembly. Probably about $40. It can be changed out with ordinary tools, if they are anything like the Quartets I have. Before you start make sure you mark things so you get the proper wire back on the proper terminal. Wm McD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montigue231 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 It sure sounds like the voice coil on the horn tweeter is bad. I need to jump in here and ask a question about this. I just bought a pair of RF 35's and my first impression was the sound was very muddled. Not clear and high like my RF 3's. I took out the crossover s and hooked up the tweeter and tested it seems to work. Could the diafram still be damaged even thought the tweeter seems to be working. My previous experience tells me if the diafram is damaged tehre is NO sound from the tweeter at all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subw00fer Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 Are the jumpers connected on the rear binding posts? Are the jumpers the brackets that connect the two inputs on the back? If so, then they are connected from the black-to-black and red-to-red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subw00fer Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 It sure sounds like the voice coil on the horn tweeter is bad. I also sounds like you have checked the jumpers at the input cup. Those are the gold brackets on the back of the speaker box? From your comments I trust these are not new units. Some, some, sellers get rid of speakers when there is a problem. These are used speakers bought from Audiogon. The seller told me today that he didn't notice any problems and he had a good rating on there. I did get the package insured with USPS so maybe I can get refunded or something. The only way to be sure is to open it up. Then check connections. There are rare cases where the drive structure has been torn off the horn in the course I believe there are automotive type push on connections to the driver. Make note of those. If you want to, you should check the resistance across the terminals with an ohm meter. If you're not familiar this process we can help you. You should call 1-800-Klipsch and ask about availability of a replacement diaphragm assembly. Probably about $40. It can be changed out with ordinary tools, if they are anything like the Quartets I have. Before you start make sure you mark things so you get the proper wire back on the proper terminal. Wm McD I have a multimeter but I'm not sure which connections that I need to check exactly. I can do this tonight and let you know what it looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted April 5, 2010 Moderators Share Posted April 5, 2010 Yes, the jumpers they are referring to are the metal brackets that link the positive terminals together and the negative terminals together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 I haven't worked on these. It may be that the metal terminals are toward the side of the driver. Generally speaking, all voice coils which are good will show a restance of 4 to 12 ohms. And as you may know, you have to disconnect at least one of the wires from the crossover filter. Probably just as good to disconnect both. Make notes, take pictures, mark with masking tape. I just say that because sometimes people report that they've taken things apart and can't figure out how to get things back together the right way, even though they thought they'll remember. Not that it has ever happened to me, too often. Smile. Bad voice coils measure "infinity" or whatever the meter show without touching the probes together. Use the lowest "Ohms" setting. R x 1. The fact is that the tweeter is the most easily damaged voice coil. This is because it has the thinest of wires. As you do this, will you please take photos and post them. You'll be our new expert. Wm McD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montigue231 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Subw00fer, When you put your ear up to the horn are u hearing anything at all ? William, The new connections are different sizes now making it impossible to reverse the pularity unlike b4 where it was very easy to do so. One size does not fit all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subw00fer Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 Alright here I go...... I opened up the front and back of the speaker and it seemed that the wires going from the tweeter to the circuit card in the back had solid connections. I only have 1 good picture to post cause my camera sucks. Two things I've noticed: All of the sound seems to be only coming out of the woofers on the center. Also the bottom of the speaker only has 1 adjustable foot. Is this normal for Klipsch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montigue231 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 I dont recall having an adjustable foot on mine..just four rubber feet Although im not 100 percent on that.. If you dont have any sound at all coming from the horn then most defenitly your tweeter diafram needs to be replaced. On the reference I think its the whole assembly that klipsch sends you..not just the titanium diafram insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subw00fer Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 I dont recall having an adjustable foot on mine..just four rubber feet Although im not 100 percent on that.. If you dont have any sound at all coming from the horn then most defenitly your tweeter diafram needs to be replaced. On the reference I think its the whole assembly that klipsch sends you..not just the titanium diafram insert. It seemed that the black wire going to the titanium diafram was a little loose but that still didn't fix the issue at hand. What do you mean by the whole assembly? Is that the circuit board connected to the back of the speaker box? How much will this cost? I don't mind working out this issue since its interesting but I'm also trying to figure out the best way to go with this. I could see if the seller wants to buy it back from me. Or I could buy the replacement parts. Or I could sell it as a broken item and buy another center. Or I could see if USPS will pay for something since its broken but I doubt they will. Thanks for all this help and keep it coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montigue231 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 On the older models you could unscrew the magnet assembly from the horn. There would be a two peice magnet assembly and in between them would be the diafram. With the reference models the diarfram is secure. It cant be removed from the magnet assembly. Unscrew the magnet assembly from the horn/woofer baffle and disconnect the wiring to remove. That peice will be your replacement part. K-137 is your part # for Klipsch It might be a hastle but at least it is repairable..Less than $30 I think... Let us know how its going Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subw00fer Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 On the older models you could unscrew the magnet assembly from the horn. There would be a two peice magnet assembly and in between them would be the diafram. With the reference models the diarfram is secure. It cant be removed from the magnet assembly. Unscrew the magnet assembly from the horn/woofer baffle and disconnect the wiring to remove. That peice will be your replacement part. K-137 is your part # for Klipsch It might be a hastle but at least it is repairable..Less than $30 I think... Let us know how its going You need to change the lingo cause I'm losing you here. So what exact part will I need to replace? Is it the heat sink looking thing from the picture above? This totally sucks and I should just have the seller buy it back from me. I guess I could call up Klipsch and have them send me a new part since $30 isn't that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subw00fer Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 Just talked to Klipsch and they suggested to remove the black/green wires to the tweeter and connect my speaker cables directly to that. The part is $28 or so to replace if it doesn't produce any sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subw00fer Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 So the problem is the the tweeter on the center. I removed it from the case and wired it directly with my speaker wire and it didn't work. I then removed the tweeter from the left speaker and tested it the same way to see (or hear) that it worked. I noticed that both are parts are K-137 so I put the working one in my center channel. Time to call up Klispch and get that part sent to me. Thanks for everyones help. This place is amazing and I'm now hooked on Klipsch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.