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Upgrading Klipsch Sb-2 bookshelf


4tay

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Yes, I know these are budget speakers meant for budget surround. BUT....

klipschsb-2.gif

I built a 12" dayton titanic III sub with 500w plate amp some time ago and wanted to put it to use.

Stock, the speakers do have stridency in the treble, not what I would call smooth by any means. This is a bedroom system btw. Holly Cole should not be quite this "glary". The only way I'd consider these speakers "Done" by Klipsch rules, is that they meet specs for the price point. No way do they have caps that will bring out the potential.

The stock crossover has a 24uf/100v Np electrolytic, and a 6 uf 100v electrolytic NP.

Replacements: Two 6uF Sonicaps and Two 24uF NP caps. The sonicaps will be the most crucial since they are the link to the tweeter where the NP just blocks for the woofer. I figured for $2.00 I might as well install a better NP than the factory used. I have some cardas stranded OFC I may slap in there.It's one of those "While I'm in there. I might as well..." And oh yeah, I removed the asinine Bristol head screws that hold in the binding post/xover plate and installed standard Phillips.

If the tweeter diaphragm or drive can be upgraded reasonably, I am open to suggestions- especially if anyone has modded these before.

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As in another thread, I completed the sb-2 crossover mods. Listening to Holly Cole, the glare is gone from the piano, and the stridency as well. These are low end speakers, limited more so by the xover than the drivers. They are no reference speaker at this point, but the aluminum tweet is a LOT better than it was allowed to be with factory crossover parts.

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The SC-1 center channel is done. I can hear a *slightly* more open sound, but the biggest change came in removing most, if not all of the smear in the vocals and occasional sibilance. Much smoother, thanks to a $12.00 5uf sonicap.

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So I have heard...if KLIPSCH folks say the speaker is done as is and can't be improved....it must be true!

Now...did I leave my cryogenically treated M'Pingo pucks next to my Richard Grey power conditioner or was it under my Totem beak for safekeeping? Maybe I lent them to Peter Belt so that his digital wristwatch won't ruin speaker imaging.

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4tay, would you mind posting the exact parts you changed in the SC-1 and what the new parts are? I was thinking of doing what you did to my SC-1.

Save cash and effort. The most substantive change comes with swapping the 5uf tweeter cap--the only cap that is in the path of the driver. A replacement will cost $2.30 each for a Daytons, about $11 each for sonicaps.

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Before I went on a rampage and modded 7 sets of Klipsch in a row this past 2 weeks, my hakko and cardas stuff was buried in the garage for 4 years. I had done zero projects in that time. I had to sift through boxes and debris. Took a lot longer than 5 minutes....

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Note to all:

My favorite Klipsch speakers always have, and always will be those models that feature a separate tweeter and midrange horn. In my experiance, just that feature alone give the horn a presence, clarity and "bigness" that small two ways can't match. The KG4's horn aperture is bigger than the sb-2 and that alone casts a bigger soundfield.

As much as I like my hotrodded KG4's, hotrodded heresy's do everything better except bass below 60hz. HII's are my next project.

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