Bi amping rf 62's

[c1chris]

I'd like to hear peoples experience with bi amping? i'm questioning its worth from some of the reasearch i've done. I'm considering bi amping my rf62's i'm running them with a yamaha rx v1800.i'd love to hear people thoughts/experience on this. Thank You.

[Agent Eagle]

I have bi-amped my RF-62's off my Onkyo TX-SR608, and to me it made a difference.... The sound coming from the horns smoothed out some, wasn't so harsh. Gave it more of a warm sound....I know alot of people say it is a 'placebo effect', but I have sensitive ears, and I could definitely tell a difference. Not major or huge, but enough to notice. In my opinion, I would say it is worth it !!

[Dennie]

I have bi-amped my RF-62's off my Onkyo TX-SR608, and to me it made a difference.... The sound coming from the horns smoothed out some, wasn't so harsh. Gave it more of a warm sound....I know alot of people say it is a 'placebo effect', but I have sensitive ears, and I could definitely tell a difference. Not major or huge, but enough to notice. In my opinion, I would say it is worth it !!

What two amps are you using?

Bi amping can make a big difference, but it is usually with a lower powered tube amp on the highs and Mids and a Solid State amp for the low end. Highs and Mids don't require the wattage that it takes to reproduce bass.

Dennie

[Dennie]

Oops! Where are my manners!

Hey Chris, welcome to the Klipsch Forums, we're glad you're here!

Now, are you talking about Bi-amping or Bi-wiring?

Many have found that Bi-wiring really doesn't make much of a difference. It just gives you a twice as much copper running to each speaker. Now that is not necessarily a bad thing, but not necessarily a noticeable thing.

Dennie

[SuBXeRo]

bi-amping with a receiver should yield positive results. Receivers with all channels driven produce about 50%-70% of their rated power, so that 100wpc is actualy 50-70ish, 70 if you are lucky. Having more power available for the woofers should produce a better bass foundation. As stated above, it can help smoothe the highs. Try it out! I called klipsch about 2 weeks ago to ask them about biamping and they are designed to do what you want to without an outboard crossover network.

good luck and let us know what your results are

[c1chris]

Wow thanks everyone for the worm welcome. So i'm deffinetly going to try Bi amping my babies. lol I'll let you guys know my results. Thank You

Chris

[BluBitRates]

Bi-amping with a receiver is called bi-wiring. Like dennie said it is really just running twice as much speaker wire to your speakers. Some people have said they notice a difference but the majority of people say that they not only do not hear a difference but that it technically is not providing any more power to your speaker then just running one run of speaker wire and using the speakers jumpers. Biamping would be using two seperate amplifiers or two seperate channels on say an amp like an emotiva xpa-5. If you want better results get a bigger receiver or amplifier. FYI your 608 does not have pre-outs so you cannot add a seperate ampifier to this receiver. To put you at piece of mind the 608 should be pushing those 62s just fine and bi-wiring does increase the cool factor!

[Jay481985]

Bi-amping with a receiver is called bi-wiring. Like dennie said it is really just running twice as much speaker wire to your speakers. Some people have said they notice a difference but the majority of people say that they not only do not hear a difference but that it technically is not providing any more power to your speaker then just running one run of speaker wire and using the speakers jumpers. Biamping would be using two seperate amplifiers or two seperate channels on say an amp like an emotiva xpa-5. If you want better results get a bigger receiver or amplifier. FYI your 608 does not have pre-outs so you cannot add a seperate ampifier to this receiver. To put you at piece of mind the 608 should be pushing those 62s just fine and bi-wiring does increase the cool factor!

First to the poster who made the thread, welcome to the forums.

Second its not quite bi amping or bi wiring. In this case its fool's bi amping.

When you bi amp you need to remove the crossover of the speaker as they are sending the high and lows etc to the speakers but when you bi amp you have two different amps. sending sound to the speakers.

bi wiring means you are just sending 4 wires to the speakers. There are numerous debates if wire actually produces sound etc. Klipsch just puts the option to appease these people as the cost to fit bi wire capability is low.

fools bi amping is basically sending in double the power into the same crossover.

Also I am not making fun its just the name and people get caught in it. I did to until I researched it.

[BluBitRates]

I would never recommend runing two sets of speaker wire without removing the jumper plate between terminals.

[c1chris]

Just to clearify I will be doing a proper bi amping. My reciever will allow me to set my rear suurounds as biamp channels for my fronts. Thus using seperate amps for the woofers and tweeters. And yes i will remove the plates from my speaker terminals. haha. Thanks guys.

Chris.

[Youthman]

Just to clearify I will be doing a proper bi amping. My reciever will allow me to set my rear suurounds as biamp channels for my fronts. Thus using seperate amps for the woofers and tweeters. And yes i will remove the plates from my speaker terminals. haha. Thanks guys.

I did the same with my Yamaha and I didn't hear any difference whatsoever. Maybe your system will be different.

[peshewah]

I bi-amped my 62's with my Yamaha and could hear a slight change. But it also seemed to take away power from my surrounds. I think your reciever has more power than mine so you might not have this problem. You might as well try it to get it off your chest. I was better off getting a amp.

Welcome to the forum.

[Youthman]

I was better off getting a amp.

Agree wholeheartedly. [Y]

[Jay481985]

Just to clearify I will be doing a proper bi amping. My reciever will allow me to set my rear suurounds as biamp channels for my fronts. Thus using seperate amps for the woofers and tweeters. And yes i will remove the plates from my speaker terminals. haha. Thanks guys.

Chris.

http://music-electronics-forum.com/t3639/

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/forum/thread/130932/passive-biamping-how-much-improvement

"When you say passive biamping, you know that this can only be
accomplished by completely getting rid of the internal speaker
crossovers from the amp to speaker path? Biamping uses an external
crossover to send one section of the whole signal to each driver. The
only difference between passive and active biamping is the type of
crossover used to split the signal BEFORE it reaches the amplifier.
Once the signals are split, each piece of the signal goes to a single
amplifier channel, which then feeds the signal directly to the driver
unit. If you are unable to seperate the drivers from the internal
speaker crossover, then you cannot biamp. Just using a single amp
channel to send a signal to each set of binding posts is called Fool's
Biamping, since you are still using the speaker's internal crossover.


As for the improvement in your system, there will probably be a slight
improvement, but it will probably not be worth the price of another set
of amp channels. As always with audio, the law of diminishing returns
takes place when biamping (JMHO, though).

"

"By just removing the jumper you are not bypassing the internal
crossovers. You will only be separating the modes of power delivery for
the drivers. The whole idea of biamping is to have one amp channel use
its power to deliver one section of the full spectrum of sound. By
using the internal crossovers of the speaker, each amp channel is still
delivering a full ranges signal through each set of speaker wire, a
signal which only separates by the time it reaches the crossover network
of the speaker. To completely bypass the crossover, you would have to
take the jumpers off, then disconnect the drivers and binding posts from
the crossover and connect the binding posts to the drivers directly. "

"While this has been used as an alternative definition of "passive
biamping," I read a series of articles (I dont remember where, but
please don't flame me) that looked at the benefits of baimping in this
way, and when those benefits were minimal at best, this method of
biamping was decried as "fool's biamping." However, my reasons for
calling this type of biamplification not valid are as such:


The whole idea of using the speaker's internal crossover is totally
against the reason for biamplification. Biamplification's main benefit
is to limit the amount of bandwidth frequency each amp channel delivers
to the speaker, in effect decreasing the amount and extent of work each
channel does, and in the end decreasing the chance of distorsion,
clipping, and other harmful side-effects that occur when an amp is
worked too hard while at the same time increasing headroom and clarity
for the rnage of frequency that the amp delivers. However, when using
the speaker's internal crossover, a full-range signal is still being
sent to each set of binding posts. The internal crossover is sifting out
the unneeded range of frequency, but the FULL RANGE SIGNAL is still
being pushed out by each amp channel. Also, by using amp power to push
out the full range signal, power is wasted because of the use of the
internal crossover, which gets rid of the extra signal by soaking in the
amp power that was used to generate it.


This method of biamping is essentially the same as biwiring with a more
powerful amp, as opposed to using seperate amp channels to drive each
frequency range. The benefits of "fool's biamping" are essentially the
same as using biwire speaker cable and an amp with twice the power of
the existing amp."