whatever55 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 "5) You might think about later adding horn-loaded subwoofers to add back the octave below 32 Hz that the Jubs really won't produce. It's a big upgrade - and DIY horn subwoofer designs can be had for $500US total cost to you (assuming US prices on Tang Band drivers). You'll need access to a table saw, a hand drill, and good 18mm Baltic Birch. You'll also need about two 300-500 W SS amps to drive the horn subwoofers. The Crown XTi series amps have built-in PEQ and crossover filters (48 dB/octave L-R!) for a low price (less than $400US)." Chris, Could you provide some more information..... 2 subs or just one ? How about the Danley kit ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) Could you provide some more information...2 subs or just one? How about the Danley kit ? If your pocketbook will stand the cost, I'd recommend something like the Danley DTS-10 tapped horn kit. For the price, you're getting more subwoofer than you'll probably need. There are folks here that will disagree with this suggestion, saying things like "...that's a home theater sub--good for only LFE reproduction..." or words to that effect. I will differ from that crowd, but the reasons for recommending this sub for full-time use depend on more in-depth understanding of the sub and where it's crossed over, i.e., I cross from the Jubs to the subs at 40 Hz--so the subs' pass band is ~17 to 40 Hz). If you are doing it yourself, I'd recommend two units of the SPUD design that can be found on the DIYAudio site. Or, if you have the room, I'd recommend a conventional folded horn design. I don't have the floorspace for a conventional horn-loaded sub, so the two SPUD tapped horn subs work very well, indeed. The total cost for materials was $500US for two units, but required access to a table saw and other woodworking gear. Chris Edited July 8, 2015 by Chris A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 I will do a lot more listening over the coming week or two and report back. Any update yet? Since your last comment, I've finally gotten around to ordering a pair of TAD's. Not delivered yet....supposedly they will be here in 4-6 weeks however, from what I saw of others who bought them, there is always the chance that 4-6 weeks might turn into 4-6 months so I guess I'll be patient. Nice thing about having the DX.... I can swap the K69's for the TAD's, punch a button or two and be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrals Posted April 17, 2023 Share Posted April 17, 2023 On 6/20/2011 at 7:47 AM, sy247 said: I got everything rigged up this weekend and it sounds very good indeed. A very different presentation to the tubes and the passive crossovers. I think the Jubilees really seem to like some solid state grip on the LF. I am very impressed. The sound also seem a lot more together, if that makes sense? Maybe the time alignment of the drivers? Sometimes I used to find the there was a bit of harshness with electric guitar or brass but the sound seems to be a lot smoother and more even. But still with a lot of detail. The biggest surprise is my turntable. I have never heard it sound so good. I would say that the sounds may have lost a little delicacy and transparency compared to the valves but it has gained so much in other areas and as we know hi-fi is about compromise and I think the plus points outweigh anything lost. I will do a lot more listening over the coming week or two and report back. Hi @sy247, I just came across this thread and was wondering if you still have this system whether you have made any changes/improvements since? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrals Posted April 17, 2023 Share Posted April 17, 2023 Oh, and did you stick with the EVDx38 in the end, over your passive crossover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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