rhenneg Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 The Danley ??#10 sounds wonderful, but way too big (280 lbs) for carying around. I have Cornwalls and want only a modest amount of MUSICAL low end--not home theatre. I would need detailed plans and parts. Something coming in at 70 lbs or less. I read about lots of experimental ideas, but I need a proven kit. thanks rh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saabracer23 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 If you want music only I would probably go sealed. If you want something low cost I would look at the dayton reference series from partsexpress, probably the 12 with the 300 watt bash amp they have. Or if you want something with more umph you could look at the TC sounds epic for a little more. Unfortunately the DIY world is running a little dry on subwoofers right now. You could go way up in price and loom at some of the scan speak stuff but you're looking at over $300 for just the woofer and honestly no worth it. I would go with the Dayton HF woofer, throw it into 3 cubes and be done. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Would 90 lbs and 8' long be too big? http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/149697.aspx $400. Or build your own: http://www.volvotreter.de/th.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I built a Tuba18. The plans can be bought http://billfitzmaurice.net/ for about $15.00 (I think). It ends up being an 18 or 19 inch cube weighing maybe 50 lbs or so. It's good down to about 30Hz or so and is VERY musical. I have it paired with my Lascalas in my bedroom and it keeps up nicely. I would not recomend it for HT or for huge rooms however. There's some pics of it HERE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Holy crap that thing is a work of art! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Thanks, it came out pretty nice, sounds great also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Here's another pic as it was going together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 The Danley ??#10 sounds wonderful, but way too big (280 lbs) for carying around. I have Cornwalls and want only a modest amount of MUSICAL low end--not home theatre. I would need detailed plans and parts. Something coming in at 70 lbs or less. I read about lots of experimental ideas, but I need a proven kit. thanks rh How big you wanna go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhenneg Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 sounds like what I need, you did a nice job. One other kit I want to consider Danley I think it was. rh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhenneg Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 After reading about the tuba 18, 24, and 39 I just ordered plans for the 24. Website says $150 and under 50lbs so that sounds really good. At that price I just can't go too far wrong. thanks everyone for all the recomendations! rh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Be sure to post pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Rhenneg, where are you located? You are going to need to buy some baltic birch plywood. This is NOT the birch you get in the Home Depot and Lowes. That is China birch. I have the entire CD, and here is an exerpt from the build document of the T24: These speakers are remarkable, but do not deviate from the plans. Use the driver(s) recommended in the document, and use baltic birch. You will thank me later. Here is a picture of my folded horn sub, just before I put the side on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhenneg Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 I am in the San Francisco Bay Area and have many specialty lumberyards that stock the high quality stuff. I believe in following the plans exactly. I ordered 2 of the emminence bp 102 that he recomended (for 2 cabinents) I got the 4 ohm by mistake--don't know if I should exchange them for the 8 ohm. Was planning to wire 8 ohms, in parallel for a 4 ohm load, plus 2 for air mass totaling 6 ohm load. Sounded like a safe load for most amps. He says there may an advantage to the 4 ohm -- but I don't see what it is. Seems like it woiuld be easier to burn up the amp with the lower ohm rateing...?? rh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhenneg Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 One thing that seemsproblematic is after you lay out the pattern on one pannel then transfer it to the second panel via drilling holes. This works in theory, but it requires all the pannels too be glued in at 90 degrees. Even a couple degrees off would translate into errors on the top side. With 1/2 ply you really have no margin for error. How did this technique for you? rh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 That's exactly how I built mine. I only had one hole that was slightly off. I glued a small piece to the panel with the missed hole to make up for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Also........the first few panels you install are critical. If they're not perfectly perpindicular, it will throw every other panel off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 someof these folded wooferes are quite interesting... I think i need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 One thing that seemsproblematic is after you lay out the pattern on one pannel then transfer it to the second panel via drilling holes. This works in theory, but it requires all the panels to be glued in at 90 degrees. Even a couple degrees off would translate into errors on the top side. With 1/2 ply you really have no margin for error. How did this technique for you? rh I clamped my sides together, and used a drill with a bubble on the top to make sure my hole was plumb. Works like a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I am in the San Francisco Bay Area and have many specialty lumberyards that stock the high quality stuff. I believe in following the plans exactly. I ordered 2 of the emminence bp 102 that he recomended (for 2 cabinents) I got the 4 ohm by mistake--don't know if I should exchange them for the 8 ohm. Was planning to wire 8 ohms, in parallel for a 4 ohm load, plus 2 for air mass totaling 6 ohm load. Sounded like a safe load for most amps. He says there may an advantage to the 4 ohm -- but I don't see what it is. Seems like it woiuld be easier to burn up the amp with the lower ohm rateing...?? rh You should post this in the BF tuba forum. It is likely Bill Fitzmaurice himself will answer this question, and put your mind at ease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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