t-man Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Both front/rear baffles loose on these otherwise mint KLF 20s. I'm surprised by the lack of reinforcement/internal bracing. Pretty much the same as a KG 2.5 when it comes to baffle/cabinet contact area - even the little KGs are at least secured with screws. My KLF 30s had an internal bridge bracing the sides and rear - these are simply a hollow structure. The only thing holding onto the baffles are the top and bottom 1x1s in the corner. I see the glue line on the side piece and it totally missed the small little brace by the upper woofer.. I doubt these were ever secure right from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-man Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 I've seen other KLF 20 cabinets where there have been factory internal bracing. I've also heard other had 30s without it (mine had them). I suppose there must have been some running changes along the way. These 20s are on the early side of production, I think. I suppose it would be a good idea to put in some bracing. I was hoping this was going to be easy ): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 here is a link to a thread with some pictures of a pair of KLF20 I rebuilt this summer for my daughter. I would suggest you use a mallet and a block of wood and remove all the baffles and re install them properly rather than attempt a patch which may or may not be successful. I realize this sounds like more work but experience tells me otherwise. Scrape off all the hot melt adhesive used down to bare clean wood on the baffles and the cabinet . I used a dremel with a small drum sander to abrade the melamine surface on the inside of the baffles so you can bond to them. Not what you wanted to hear but it`s not really difficult nor all that time consuming and hey the speakers are worth it. Do it right do it once and enjoy. Best regards Moray James. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=372783&highlight=klf20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-man Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 I found these photos of RF7s in the process of assembly. If I can make 2 inner boxes with 3/4" ply like these have, it should work well to stiffen up the cabinet and minimize flexing of the side panels. Then glue it all together and seal up all the seams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 This type of bracing will work if you are removing the baffles. It is easier however to install some3/4 inch cleats one on each opposing wall and then install a cross brase onthe cleats as if they were shelf brackets. The cross brace is intentionally a little short so that it is easy to install and it glues to the cleat not the wall. You want to install braces between the woofers and between the woofer and the mid norn. Don`t forget to brace the back and the top. Good luck and best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-man Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 I think I follow your thinking on this Moray. This RF7 pictured bracing was inside my factory KLF30s. I find it strange that it does not appear in my KLF 20s. As mentioned before, they might have had a running change on these back in the day due to failures of the early cabinets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I have two sets of KLF 20 one set had one brace the otherset had three. The reason why I suggested to install side cleats then cross braces is that with this method the cross piece is cut a little shorter than the actual internal width of the cabinet. The cross piece can be any width you want, because it is a little narrower than the cabinet but still wide enough to rest on the cleats it does not place any stress on the cabinet walls. Trying to fit a brace to fit the cabinet makes it very difficult to install and get a good wet glue line and the cabinet wall do warp a little so fitting them is difficult. With the side cleats mounted first you simply apply some white glue to the cross brace and set it onto the cleats and let it set up done like dinner. Hope this makes sense. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-man Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 YEP, and you can see that what you describe is the same method the RF7s appear to have. You can see from the black bottom-up photo, that the "shelf" is sitting on cleats, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Yes good picture. If you use this method use some 3/4 inch strapping to tie to the front and back baffles but it is best if you place a solid brace across the front baffle between the two woofers and above the top woofer and the mid horn as this is where you will have the greatest flex. Best regards Moray James. PS: the link I provided shows pictures of exactly this in a Quartet cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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