ryansupak Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Got new rear panels built tonight (3/4" Birch Plywood from my favorite lumber store in Houston: Stahlman Lumber), and I didn't have the heart not to at least use 2 coats of Duratex on the bottom of the boxes where there was actually some bare wood. Between that and 2 coats on the front, back and sides of the new panels, I went through about a pint (one little plastic bag) of Duratex. I applied it with a brush despite the instructions, going for kind of a "linen finish" which works nicely with the "weathered" look of the speakers. New adhesive stencils will be ready tomorrow. I sent a local sign place a PDF at actual size (downloaded from Klipsch) and they're generating them for $5 a pop. (I tried some reproduction badges but basically they clash with the rest of the project since they look new and everything else looks old.) I'm treating the boxes to brand-new Penn Elcom jumbo rubber feet, and all-new marine-grade screws. In the end they will still look well-loved (that's my style), but mechanically and electronically they'll be better than new (also my style). rs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 I'm glad they're getting the care they deserve. Will the woofer grill come off? I was planning on sand blasting and painting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryansupak Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 To take the grill out you'd have to dismantle most of the front baffle and then rebuild it. I plan on sanding it and coating it with some light machine oil instead. rs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Great job so far on the refurbish. If your grilles are like the two pair I've had, there is a funky caulk-like good between the motor board and secondary motor board that seals the holes in the expanded metal grille. Prevents vibration and whilstling noises I suppose, actually sealing a ported cabinet seems a bit odd at first glance. i've never attempted to remove the grilles, just take the woofies out, dust em off with detail brush (bar gunk sometimes 1/4" thick) and paint woofers and grille with SEM satin black (automotive vinyl top paint) but anything would do on the grille material itself. I'd put the suggested corners on, the 1 1/4" dia 3/4 thick mini-puck feet go on all my pro stuff and is very similar to what Klispch used on LSI split top cabinets and MCM top horns. Hope you took a good listen/measurements with the original crossovers, would like to know definitively how much difference new network parts makes. For myself I just compared AL to AL3 LSI and the AL3 had more slam and brighter high end by quite a margin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryansupak Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Hi, thanks! There is no sealer on my grills at all. I actually ended up sealing one of them with Momentive Silicon Sealant (one of my go-to materials). About the old vs new crossover: there is a *massive* increase in the top end. It actually hurts me to listen at "pre-crossover" power levels. My wife (a musician also) walked in and the expression on her face confirmed what I suspected. To get the sound I'm going for, for DJing (an extremely mellow, bass-heavy sound with sweet and gentle highs), I'm going to use 2 stages of treble attenuation: a White 4700 EQ in the amp rack in addition to the vintage passive mastering EQ that accompanies my UREI mixer. rs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 To get the sound I'm going for, for DJing (an extremely mellow, bass-heavy sound with sweet and gentle highs), I'm going to use 2 stages of treble attenuation: a White 4700 EQ in the amp rack in addition to the vintage passive mastering EQ that accompanies my UREI mixer. Before you go to the trouble of doing the eq, look at this thread detailing a mod to the crossovers. It will balance the drivers out a lot. It's a great mod.Bruce http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/21971/178893.aspx#178893 (link opens in new window) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryansupak Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Thanks, I'll check it out. (I have to carry a room EQ in my rig regardless but of course the less you have to use it the better.) I was also considering some kind of felt in front of the horns but will try this 1st... rs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryansupak Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 I tried a few different combinations. I think I prefer squawker at (-12) and tweeter at (-3). A few small peaks remain to clean up with the Room EQ but all in all an improvement. rs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 That was quick! When I made new crossovers for my LaScalas, I dropped my mids down quite a bit (don't remember exactly how much), and it changed the balance a lot. Makes the bass seem a lot more full, with the mids not so 'in your face'. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryansupak Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Yeah, about 1.5kHz "blows my head off" in the default setting. This is a good compromise. rs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryansupak Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 After more listening, "difficult" tracks sound good and well-mastered ones sound great. Think this is a winner. Thanks again for pointing that out. rs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Ryan, glad you were able to play around with it and found it good. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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