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Wall Wart and 12v Trigger


Youthman

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The new Harman Kardon AVR3600 does not have a 12v trigger but it does have an outlet on the back of it.

Will any 12v plug work? How about either of these?

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I considered the Emotiva ET-3 but $5 for a wall wart vs $40 for the Emotiva ET-3 to basically do the same thing, I just don't see the value in it.

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Yes that is what I mentioned in the other thread since your amp just uses bare wires it will be very easy to use a wall wart since the end connector will just be cut off.

Either of those should work fine. You might also dig around any old unused electronics, computer accessories, etc. and you may have something which would work since the connector end won't matter. I know I probably have a few of them but since normally the end needs to be a 3.5mm and they usually have something else. But in your case the end will just be cut off for the bare wires so almost any 12v power pack becomes a working wall wart trigger. [:)]

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I believe as long as they are mono they will work

Mono? I didn't know power plugs were mono or stereo? My amp has bare wire connections so regardless of what I get, the "tip" will be cut off and stripped to bare wire.

Apparently, some wall warts are DC and others are AC. Back of HK says AC Outlet so I guess I need to make sure it is AC plug?

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The plug in is 120v AC the wires are 12v DC, it's a converter.

All wall outlet power is AC. Your switched outlet on the back of the HK is like any wall outlet AC, but the switched outlet on the back of the HK is limited in power so you definitely would not do anything like plug your amp directly into it, it isn't meant for that. But it will work very nicely with the wall wart.

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Ok, I found two 12v triggers at the office that we were not using. I've spent 30 minutes hooking everything up (most of the time was spent with cable management in awkward positions behind the false wall. I climbed out from behind the false wall, turned it on...works like a champ......well almost. When I turn the HK off, the Parasound Amp remains on. Not good. Anyone know why the wall wart isn't triggering the amp to turn off?

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First check to see that the outlet on the HK is actually switched.

Does the Parasound trigger on when the HK is turned on?

Perhaps the Parasound needs the proper polarity to work. Make sure the + and - from the brick are going into the appropriate + and - receptacles on the Parasound.

Perhaps it's because there is residual current in a transformer when the A/C power is turned off. If that is the case, then somehow draining that power would do the trick. An LED comes to mind.

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I checked your HK's manual to see if the switched outlet is always switched (sometimes there is a setting to make them switched or unswitched) from my quick look it seems that it is always switched meaning it only has power when the HK is powered ON. So this should be good.

As Mustang Guy mentioned try switching the wires maybe the polarity is wrong.

Does it always turn the amp ON everytime? try manually turning the amp OFF and see if it always comes ON with the HK.

My guess is if it still doesn't work it may be a mis-match between the amp and wall wart. Amp triggers are usually very forgiving so they will work with almost any 12v wall wart, but you may have got one wall wart which isn't compatible with your amp.

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OK I also looked at your amps manual here is what it requires for the trigger.

DC Trigger Connection
This connector provides the ability to trigger your amplifier on with an external DC voltage source
ranging from + 9 Vdc to +12 Vdc. With the main power switch in the off (down) position, the
amplifier can be turned on with voltage from any external DC source such as the +12 Vdc trigger
from the Parasound P/SP-1500 AV Processor/Preamplifier. Since it is optically coupled, the DC trigger only requires 15 mA of current to activate the circuitry and turn on the amplifier
The 15 mA is milliamps, the wall wart maybe too high or too low for milliamps output. The wall wart should have its output written on its labeling.
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OK I also looked at your amps manual here is what it requires for the trigger.

DC Trigger Connection
This connector provides the ability to trigger your amplifier on with an external DC voltage source
ranging from + 9 Vdc to +12 Vdc. With the main power switch in the off (down) position, the
amplifier can be turned on with voltage from any external DC source such as the +12 Vdc trigger
from the Parasound P/SP-1500 AV Processor/Preamplifier. Since it is optically coupled, the DC trigger only requires 15 mA of current to activate the circuitry and turn on the amplifier
The 15 mA is milliamps, the wall wart maybe too high or too low for milliamps output. The wall wart should have its output written on its labeling.

15 mA is the minimum for the trigger. They are basically telling buyers that it takes very little amperage to trigger the power on. What is important is that this is DC voltage, and many transformers are AC.

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OK I also looked at your amps manual here is what it requires for the trigger.

DC Trigger Connection
This connector provides the ability to trigger your amplifier on with an external DC voltage source
ranging from + 9 Vdc to +12 Vdc. With the main power switch in the off (down) position, the
amplifier can be turned on with voltage from any external DC source such as the +12 Vdc trigger
from the Parasound P/SP-1500 AV Processor/Preamplifier. Since it is optically coupled, the DC trigger only requires 15 mA of current to activate the circuitry and turn on the amplifier
The 15 mA is milliamps, the wall wart maybe too high or too low for milliamps output. The wall wart should have its output written on its labeling.

15 mA is the minimum for the trigger. They are basically telling buyers that it takes very little amperage to trigger the power on. What is important is that this is DC voltage, and many transformers are AC.

Yes that is the minimum and it is very low, but I have heard of people having this exact same problem because of not enough power to the trigger usually because of multiple triggers being used. I don't know what Youths wall wart is putting out, most 12v wall warts are well within the range of amp triggers which have a pretty wide range in which they work.

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Thanks guys, sorry I posted just before going to church.

Here are the wall wart specs:
Direct Plug-In Transormer Unit
Model: CL-1250
I/P: AC 120V 60Hz 12W
O/P: DC 12V 500mA

I have the Parasound in the off position (as I had with the UMC-1). When I turn the HK on, the Parasound turns on instantly (as it did with the UMC-1). I turned off the HK before I left and when I came home, the Parasound had shut off.

Quick tests:
I turned the HK on and waited 1 minute before turning back off. The Parasound stayed on for 28 seconds.
I turned the HK on and waited 5 minutes before turning back off. The Parasound stayed on for exactly 28 seconds.
I will leave it on for about 30 minutes playing some music and test again.

I can live with 28 seconds because I typically shouldn't turn the unit off, only to turn it right back on again. I did that earlier and of course, when I turned the HK on and the amp was already on, there was a thump through the speakers which I don't want to happen.

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OK there probably is a built in delay on the HK's switched outlet, sounds like it's working as it should.

Many amps have delays and soft start systems to help avoid that turn ON thump, just avoid turning the system OFF and ON again quickly and all is good. [:)]

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OK there probably is a built in delay on the HK's switched outlet, sounds like it's working as it should.

I believe you are correct. I left the HK on for about 30 minutes and shut it off and the Parasound shut off right at 28 seconds again. Either the Wall Wart takes 28 seconds to discharge (doubt it since there really isn't much of a draw from the Parasound) or the HK has a 30 sec delay. I can live with that. I was REALLY not looking forward to reversing the polarity on the wall wart. It's would have been a royal pain to undo much of everything so I could turn the amp around to get to it. I know for certain it is correct because I plugged the wall wart into the back of the HK and turned it on and used my meter to test which side was (+) positive and which wire was (-) negative.

Thanks for everyone's help. I just didn't have much time earlier to look at it as I got everything hooked up right before I had to leave.

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