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Speaker size settings?


tripod

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I have an SC-1 center, SF-2 fronts, crummy Kenwood 8" sub and Kenwood surrounds. Should I set my fronts to Normal or Large on the receiver?

Also, if someone could post a brief description about what the size settings are all about I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

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Well, just taking your description at face value about the "crummy Kenwood 8" sub," I'd set the SF-2s as large so you can get some nice bass at least down to the limits of the SF-2s. Everthing else should be set to Normal.

These settings dictate to the Kenwood where to direct bass frequencies which fall below a pre-determined point. That point is usually fixed at around 80hz on most receivers, but some have adjustable points on them.

Channels with "Normal" or "Small" settings on them will have the bass below the cutoff point directed to the subwoofer and/or the mains (if they are set to Large). Whether it goes to the sub and/or the mains depends on how your receiver is setup and if you have the sub hooked to a sub output jack on the receiver.

Doug

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I'm probably not being fair in my description of the sub. My location of it is probably working against its effectiveness as much as its size. I currently have it in a cubby hole within my entertainment center. I know that is a very bad location, but with a wife and 3 year-old (two very different issues), that's where it will stay. It is a powered sub hooked to the receiver by a sub output jack.

Let me see if I understand, please correct me if not. If I set my fronts to Large, the following is true?

- more of the lower range spectrum will be sent to my fronts, and NOT to the sub?

- the sub will ONLY be sent the signals for very low fequencies?

- it's not a matter of signal strength that is altered by this setting, but rather which frequencies are routed where?

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Setting the speaker to large more or less lowers the reciever's internal crossover point. Set to small, it may have a xover of 120 Hz, but to large, it may be 80 Hz or have none at all, or something like that. This will also lower the xover point of the sub out to match it.

So, with it set to large, it can then allow the mains to play lower and the sub will not have to go up as high. The bass from the SF-2's will not be boomy, but tight, and the extra sub adds the boominess where the SF's can't.

So, in answer to your questions:

1. more of a lower range is sent to the mains and the sub. Lows the speakers can't handle will be produced by the sub then.

2. The sub is only sent the signal for really lows anyway, basically. So... Smile.gif

3. Yes. The signal routing is what is differing here.

You should have it set to large anyway, since those SF's can dish out fairly low bass anyway. The sub just allows it to add an extra boom. Smile.gif

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SoundWise / ProMedia Tech Support / 1-888-554-5665s>

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its all done digitally w/ a digital signal processor (dsp). the small setting simulates a high pass crossover to the speakers. think high pass lets the higher freqs pass. so it begins filtering the speaker at whichever freq, either a fixed point of usually the at or around the thx standard 80hz, or an adjustable point. it filters off the bass below that point at the slope rate of the crossover.

when you set large it disengages or doesn't use the high pass filter. that speaker runs full-range to its capabilities.

whether you set large or small, the dsp still filters the sub output as above w/ what is the low pass filter.

same as the filter on your sub in its function, but usually is fixed on most receivers again at the 80hz mark. that means it begins filtering there all bass above that point at the slope rate.

LFE is a seperate channel of bass. not the same thing as low bass in your other channels. & when you have a sub hooked up & sub:yes, about every dsp will send it to the sub only, as it should. but this means if you don't disengage or turn all the way up the crossover on the sub itself, you could be cutting out some of the LFE in the upper freq ranges.

so the best overall route i've found is to have good power from the amps, and the adjustable crossover capability in the dsp, for when you're using good low bass producing towers for mains or others.

i dial down to 50hz so then my bigger speaks don't get cut higher, the power drives their woofs down low real nice and the sub comes up to meet them at a lower point where a sub belongs. no standing waves such as the problem w/ having mains large (full-range) & the sub overlapping too much in the same range. the transistion is seamless, the bass better quality, & w/o losing the overall bass output.

also, i have a switch on the sub that disengages its crossover so no LFE is cut out. also helps having a remote volume control for the sub itself. 3-5 clicks up for movies and back to flat for music. Smile.gif

hope i don't sound conceited. but i've been thru the wringer trying to get it right w/ my $ & time. if anyone is a finicky as me they may want to take notes. Wink.gif

i know many have the problem that they want to set big speaks as large as they should be, but along w/ a sub in the same broad range, the bass gets muddy when they do so (standing waves). also they don't want to cut LFE by using the sub's crossover when all LFE is going to the sub only.

the answer to the bass manager's dilemma (or trilemma) lies in a lil something that receiver makers have mostly ignored until very recently as has been found in the pre/pros for many years now. an adjustable crossover in the dsp that goes DOWN for the tower speaks. wish i would have know when i started out in digital 2 years ago.

cwm25.gif

btw, this isn't needed & doesn't apply for powered towers. only for seperate full range speakers and sub.

Wink.gif

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My Home Systems Page

This message has been edited by boa12 on 08-12-2002 at 10:54 PM

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Boa12,

Thanks a lot for the explanatory post, it really helped me figure out the dilema about how to set up the subwoofer.

Vladi

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Front: RF-3 II

Center: RC-3 II

Surround: 2 Quintets

Subwoofer: RSW-10

Receiver: Sony STR-DA5ES

TV: Sony Wega KV-36FV27

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