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Cornwall II's - Upgrade Modifications


Cuffclean

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I currently pursing an upgrade path with my existing equipment with hopes of obtaining a sizable leap in sonic improvement. I have already sourced parts for my integrated amp, hence I am now exploring what are the best parts for my Cornwall II's. My current set-up is: Ah! Tjoeb '99 CDP, Jolida 502B converted to triode mode with fast recovery diodes installed (Will soon install: Jensen PIO caps, Tant Resistors, & DACT CT1 100k attentuator).

Relative to the Cornwalls, I've been thinking about chaning out the caps, inductors, resistors, and internal re-wiring. I am seeking recommendations on the best replacement parts (and source) to achieve a significant improvement. I welcome all saged advice.

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Not sure what is in the Cornwall II's as far as crossovers. The values posted, eg. uF, are for Cornwall i's not II's.

For the inductor, use a Solen (http://www.solen.ca/index.html) solid wire, 12 awg (don't know the value), the high end capacitor, eg 2.0 uF use Hovland musicap (speaker capacitor) (http://www.partsConneXion.com/catalog/capacitors.html) and you can use a less expensive cap for the low end, eg 4.0, maybe a Solen fastcap. For wiring use a good thicker gauge speaker wire (much better than the original, thin, Monster cable.

The difference is substantial from the old inexpensive caps and inductors. Cost for me was under $300 Cdn for the Cornwall 1's to replace the parts.

Maybe somebody else can give you the exact values. The most expensive piece is the inductors (12 gauge is expensive, but oh so good in the bottom end). The Hovlands are just burning in, 150 hours and are sounding better (they are making my SS Acurus as sweet as it can be) every day. They do take a while to burn in. They are more expensive, but my ears tell me they were worth the investment.

I know, I need to look at an integrated tube amp or at least a tube preamp, Wright or AE-3. Maybe in the new year.

I hope this helps.

Don

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Sorry to ask a dumb question ...

Are your Cornwall II's the pre-1969 version (B-series cross-over) or the post-1985 Cornwall II's (B-2, B-3 crossovers?).

If it's pre-69, then take a look at Al's design on his website. His work only with the earlier version, not the latter, due to differences in the tweeters ...

------------------

"Bullsh*t!"

-PWK-

---------------------

TWO-CHANNEL SYSTEM

Eico HF-81

Eico HFT-90

New Tube 4000 CD Player

1976 Klipschorns (KCBR's & ALK'ed)

HOME THEATER

Klipsch 1968 ALK Cornwall "II"s (LF/RF)

ALK Belle Klipsch (Center)

Klipsch Heresy (RR/LR)

Klipsch KSW-12 sub

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Cornwalls)

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Heresy's)

Denon AVR-4800

Toshiba SD-3109 DVD

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Hi Chris,

Thanks for your reply and inquiry. My Cornwall II's are the post 1985 series. They have the back that is not removable. In fact, I've never never seen the internal crossover. I haven't taken out the woofer to peer inside. Hence, I am unaware which type crossover they have. i probably need to post the serial numbers so that someone might be able to date them. I do know however that they are incompatable with the ALK XO mod in that Al's design is only applicable for earlier models.

As you suggest, possibly they contain either the B-2 or B-3 crossover. I have pictures of what this XO looks like so I will undoubtely remove the woofer and peer inside to render an identification. This still leaves me with the question as to the values & sizes for the: inductors, capacitors, and resistors as applicable. Perhaps someone can post these values for both types (B-2, B-3). I also seek recommendations for type of conductors and caps. Don't know which capacitor: Solen, Jensen, or Hovland is superior. I have read that the inductor makes the most difference, hence I would welcome insight on this as well. Then, there is the issue of internal re-wiring. thus, I am seeking answers from the experts on this forum. Help???

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Stan, I e-mailed you the schematic for the Cornwall II crossover. The crossover is a circuit board which is attached to the back binding posts. If you remove the screws from the back binding post it will come out, you may have to tilt it out carefully because there is a transformer which is a part of the crossover.

Dan

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