Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community
Sign in to follow this  
Brac

La Scala Split wiring

Recommended Posts

A good long time ago I picked up a set of split Industrials, and I am finally getting back to them. Looking at the back plate, I'm not 100% sure what wires go where.

Hoping someone has a diagram.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I recall, the main in wires go to the top connector and the jumper goes from the lower connector on the top hat to the bass bin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That should help, Thanks.   Are those parts available, mine aren't the cleanest I've ever seen.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Brac said:

That should help, Thanks.   Are those parts available, mine aren't the cleanest I've ever seen.

 

 

Which parts?  The caps are available.   Those were a couple pair I cleaned up and rebuilt for my brother and son in law.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Which parts?  The caps are available.   Those were a couple pair I cleaned up and rebuilt for my brother and son in law.

The connection parts that go through the backplate.  

 

Those look much bigger than mine,  I guess the networks go inside the HFsection only on the Industrials?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They're probably the same size and yes, the networks go inside the top hat on 2 piece LSI's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could wire around the fuse holders if you don't listen at amp clipping levels and the speaker connectors can probably be found at parts express.  They look like what I just used when I added 5 way binding posts to my KP2500s.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a plan,  I'll leave one together and what the parts are will be more clear when they are in hand, I'm sure.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, just got back into messing with these, and I'm at a total loss.  The pics of the split cups CECAA850 posted have 2 pairs of wires coming off the cup/backplate. These that I have (could certainly be messed up) have 4 pairs of wires coming off.  Anyone have a full schematic for LS splits?  

  

A couple other things I've noticed which may be a clue. The networks I have are "AA" there is no "s" stamp so could the extra wires be solving something? 

 

In this pic, I was trying to place wires where they go,  and things are obviously not right.  I feel like the tweet and squak should attach direct to the XO, which would then leave bass and input from the cup. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_1425.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've reworked several sets of split LSI and recall it being somewhat complicated. Not only getting inside the box, as the order of disassembly is a bit tricky at first, but that network and wiring. I did a couple messed up at one time as I recall. Take your time and approach it with a clear head is my best advice. I got new fuse holders and 5-way posts from Parts Express and rebuilt them to identical to factory. Never seen any speaker manufacturer than Klipsch rely on fuses for speaker protection but feel strongly about keeping things original as I never used mine for pro live sound, just back yard stuff like most of us. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Brac said:

So, just got back into messing with these, and I'm at a total loss.  The pics of the split cups CECAA850 posted have 2 pairs of wires coming off the cup/backplate. These that I have (could certainly be messed up) have 4 pairs of wires coming off.  Anyone have a full schematic for LS splits?  

  

A couple other things I've noticed which may be a clue. The networks I have are "AA" there is no "s" stamp so could the extra wires be solving something? 

 

In this pic, I was trying to place wires where they go,  and things are obviously not right.  I feel like the tweet and squak should attach direct to the XO, which would then leave bass and input from the cup. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_1425.JPG

I don't think so, because both networks would have an output to Woofer, only on the splits you send it back to the second set of 5-way posts instead of directly to the woofer itself.  Where it gets tricky is the separate fuse for the woofer section. Follow the signal path grasshopper. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I found some ZEN by following the signal path (like a good grass hopper). One question that will tell me if I have it right. Does the HF fuse go only to the squaker?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have a stack of parts on the workbench all playing music.   HOORAY!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, colterphoto1 said:

I don't think so, because both networks would have an output to Woofer, only on the splits you send it back to the second set of 5-way posts instead of directly to the woofer itself.  Where it gets tricky is the separate fuse for the woofer section. Follow the signal path grasshopper. 

 

So now that I have working parts on the bench, I gotta ask.  I used a single 1/4 mono to drive one speaker, but it has 2 1/4" mono inputs that are parallel.  when would you want to parallel

your inputs?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Brac said:

 

So now that I have working parts on the bench, I gotta ask.  I used a single 1/4 mono to drive one speaker, but it has 2 1/4" mono inputs that are parallel.  when would you want to parallel

your inputs?

If you bi-amped.  You'd cut the jumper wire on the back of the terminal when you did.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Brac said:

 

So now that I have working parts on the bench, I gotta ask.  I used a single 1/4 mono to drive one speaker, but it has 2 1/4" mono inputs that are parallel.  when would you want to parallel

your inputs?

Used for jumpering to another speaker generally. Lots of guys changed the input connector type because the dual banana, although a great deal of contact surface area, is the most brittle, breakable connector for pro use. Others I've seen are XLR, Cannon, but the most modern of all to utilize ( and I've changed most of my pro stuff to this) is the Neutrik NL4 or Speakon connector. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...