Loudisbeautiful Posted November 10, 2002 Share Posted November 10, 2002 Hello out there in Klipsch Land! I just picked up a pair of LaScalas on ebay. The are from 1989 and have the original Brich Lacquer on them.....The finish has turn yellow with oxidation.....So Im going to sand them down. My Question: After I sand them down....I want to have the unfinished birch look....Do I need to put anything on them after sanding? That is, any tung oil, lemon oil...ect. Or can I just leave them unfinished? Please leave detail instructions...as this will be my first Klipsch refinishing project.... Keep Listening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted November 11, 2002 Share Posted November 11, 2002 Dear Jeff, I don't see anyone else picking up on this, so I'll jump in. My initial thought is that there is more to the project than is obvious. I have not refinished LS's and thus please take everything with a grain of salt. I understand you want a pale finish. Also, your request for detailed instructions is a bit like the young fellow demanding total wisdom while he stands on one foot. Make it quick. Looking at the picture, the wood looks fairly warm. Somewhat toward tan. There are several reasons it might get that way. I point this out because you may do a lot of work only to return to that same situation. To some extent, most woodworking finishing projects are directed to a warm finish, and you're looking for something the other way. 1) Finishes have their own color. Lacquer is typically said to be "water white." This means "clear". It looks clear in the can. Shellac and varnish usually are somewhat amber in the can. Therefore, the layer which is put on will give a tint, accordingly. 2) Just about any finish will affect the color of fresh wood. For example, if you put a petroleum product on any wood, it will darken the wood. E.g. if you put something like lighter fluid or kerosene on wood, the wood darkens until the liquid evaporates. This is a way of testing how a wood will darken from any finish. It is my understanding that lacquer is the least likely to darken wood, but it may, to some extent. This is not a matter that the finish has a tint, just that it effects the optics. One exception to this seems to be modern water borne clear finishes. From what I read, the users don't like it because it doesn't warm the color of wood. But it may be what you want. 3) Unprotected wood will oxidize, and darken. But a finish, particularly a thin one, allows the penetration of oxygen. So a thin finish will allow darkening of the wood over time. But if the finish is amber to begin with, more coats will darken it too. 4) I don't know that there is a way of keeping freshly sanded wood looking freshly sanded. When designers want white wood, long term, they "pickle" it with a thin wash of white paint. Then put on a cover coat. Sanding is risky business. The top veneer is thin and you might, might have a problem with getting deep enough to remove the lacquer and not much more. I'd suggest a sanding block with 400 grit wet or dry, and use paint thinner as a lubricant. Doing the inside surfaces will be a problem. Let me suggest you PM Mr. HDBRbuilder on the forum. He might be able to give some sage advice from experience. My gut feeling is that you're better off living with what you have. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Man Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 You won't be able to sand the lacquer off. It will just gum up on the sand paper, and you can't sand inside the mouth. Use a striper first, then sand them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale W Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 JEFF: I've refinished more pairs of lascalas than i can remember. I use to buy every pair that came around in the local paper then customize them and re-sell them. The factory finish is difficult to remove and i dont sugest you try and sand it off. You may make a mess of the wood by makeing depresions in it by sanding wrong.Paint striper made for wood not automotive is the best. It's a very messy job and hard to get into the lower bin area.But if you take your time you can do a decent job of it. Unless you have access to a spay booth i wouldnt go with laquer or you may end up with a very dirty finish.There are lots of good tung oils on the market that will warm up the wood a bit and give you back the protection you need. This you can do at home and hand rub the finished product. As far as staining, birch is not a easy wood to stain as it likes to go blotchy. I spray stain mine with a alcohol base stain, but this takes some skill and the proper equipment. Let me know if you want to take on this project and i'll give you all the info you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted November 13, 2002 Share Posted November 13, 2002 Maybe you should start by refinishing the hatch on the bottom. That way you'll be able to see what you get and develop some experience before tackling the big job. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loudisbeautiful Posted November 25, 2002 Author Share Posted November 25, 2002 Thank you for all your advice! I ended up going with a profesional woodworking co. The did a fantastic job on them....way better than new....They came out just beautiful.....I will try to get a picture up....If anyone is in the Miami, Ft, lauderdale area....let me know I will post the no. Keep listening, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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