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R-120SW vs. R-112SW (or SPL-120)

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I'm looking to purchase a 10-12" sub to match my RP Klipsch set (RP 250F, RP 250C, RP-140SA).  I am looking at the R-120SW  ($225 black Friday price) or the R-112SW ($399). 


As far as I can tell the 112SW seems to be superior despite being an older model, but is it worth an extra $175?  If so, at that price point should I also be considering the SPL-120 for $50 more ($449)?  Really was hoping to spend <$350 so I'd want the 112SW or SPL to be noticeably better for the extra money.


Context: My room is 19' x 19' and I'm not a bass "enthusiast", i.e. I don't listen to rap, not trying to shake the walls/piss my wife off even more, etc.  Just want solid, clean bass to match my peripherals.  Currently using a 10" Onkyo that came from an 10+ year old home-theater-in-a-box set so I'm assuming upgrading to any of these will be worth it. 


Any advice would be appreciated.



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Welcome to the forum.


The obvious differences below is enough to make up my mind.




  • 200-watt RMS amplifier (400 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 29-120 Hz
  • weight: 31 lbs.






  • 300-watt RMS amplifier (600 watts peak power)
  • frequency response: 24-125 Hz
  • weight: 48.75 lbs.                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

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Willand - thanks, glad to be here.  Looks like a wealth of info to tap into.  So it sounds like you believe the extra $175 is worth it based on the specs.  Thanks for the feedback.


Wondering if anyone else has firsthand experience with them - either owned both or at least listened to both enough to tell the difference.

Edited by RyanKlipschSpeakers

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6 hours ago, RyanKlipschSpeakers said:

So it sounds like you believe the extra $175 is worth it based on the specs.

The main thing that caught my eye was the weight difference, 31 pounds vs 48.75 pounds.



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I have a pair of SW 112s,  (one I am trying to get fixed for an amp issue) the other is hiding in my coat closet and is bass reinforcement for my 6 and 8 inch ceiling speakers,  which it does well for a large chunk of a 3000 square foot house.   The SW-112 has a slot loaded port,   and what looks to be a fiberglass or carbon fiber woofer cone (no dust cap,  the voice coil is vented through the center of the magnet assembly.)  Other than the amp problem that I am trying to resolve on one (and it was bought used, don't know if abused, and ran for two years without issue).  If you want to stay with Klipsch,  I think it is right there.   I have an SW-115 with my main home theater system that I bought new that has run fine for the seven years or so I have had it.  Unless you are gonna spend way more than $350 or so,  I think you are on the right track with the R-112SW which was what came out after the SW 112, with similar specs.

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Update: I ended up buying both and tried them out this weekend.  All I can say about the SW-112 is....holy smokes.  So powerful and blends really well with my RP peripherals.  I have to turn the gain down below 50% to not overpower but it still sounds great.  I didn't know what I was missing with my crappy old HTIB sub.


I liked the R-120SW as well (much better than my old one) but compared to the SW-112 it wasn't as smooth so I returned it and kept the 112.  Bonus points: the 112 looks really nice as well.  


My only question: I can't figure out the On/Auto/Standby switch (picture attached).  There are 3 options:


1. Top position (I assume this = ON) - in this position the green LED is always on regardless of if the receiver is on or off; when there is a signal from the receiver the sub makes sound

2. Bottom (I assume this = OFF) - in this position the LED never turns on, regardless of receiver being on or off; also never makes sound

3. Middle position (I assume this = AUTO) - this position depends on where the switch came from previously: 

  • If I land here from the Top/ON spot, the LED stays on (since it was already on from the Top/ON spot) and it continues to make sound (again, already making sound in the ON position)
  • If I land here from the Bottom/OFF spot, the LED stays off and continues to NOT make sound

I didn't know a 3-position switch could be this complicated.  Ideally I'd like the sub to come on when the receiver does, then go into standby/power save mode when the system is not in use.  I obviously don't want to toggle switches every time I want to hear my speaker.  Any suggestions? 


Thanks again for the input.




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