junaidot Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 35 minutes ago, Deang said: On no, I'm no guru, I have made a lot of mistakes though. People who don't know filter design should keep things as simple as possible. A little goes a long way, especially with these. I would leave the small coils on the high pass alone. Bigger wire isn't always better, and the high DCR of that wire is important for that part of the circuit. There is also some mutual inductance, which is measured and accounted for in the design. "Im no guru", that's what most HUMBLE people will say, when they are actually PRO. Thx so much for the contribution. I might not go into cabinet upgrade immediately but I will very much love to change the coil. I will soon start designing. using the original board is no problem, from the examples Ive seen from InVenTor, Did he use another board for the Coils and connect with wires? The point is that I could still see the 2 small coils on the board?? @InVeNtOr pls. give clue (many thx). Thx all so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 Well... looks like a first class community service for you within less than 24 hours we enabled you to start up 😉 Hope we can see some pics once your project is finished . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 1 hour ago, MicroMara said: Well... looks like a first class community service for you within less than 24 hours we enabled you to start up 😉 Hope we can see some pics once your project is finished . @Micromara The https://xtreme-24.de/ only have up to 15uf, no 16uf which I need for LF PCB. Did you experience the samething? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 31 minutes ago, junaidot said: @Micromara The https://xtreme-24.de/ only have up to 15uf, no 16uf which I need for LF PCB. Did you experience the samething? as far as i know there´re only the 16uF Jantzen Cross Caps available , should be fine for the LF PCB , used the superiorcaps for the mid-hi pass only ....you may send them a email with your full list of cap requirements , they may offer an option ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 Started sorting out Materials needed: This is my LF I know highlighted material is Caps (16uf/100v) - I can only find (15uf/400v), at least from Jantzen The White one left is Resistor -- Is that the one whereby you recommended Resistor of THIEL? That shop is closed Temporarily. I want to be sure to buy correct value, hence the intention to stick to known/tried VENDOR WHAT IS MATERIAL TO RIGHT and Value pls? Now to my "HF" The 2 white Materials are Resistors (Are those supposed to be Thiel's or Mudorf?) 2nd from Left: The Black Caps is clear, I found: "JANTZEN SUPERIOR Z-CAP" any idea max diameter? 3rd from Left: The Coils, What is exact Description because there are quite a few and what should be diameter? 4th from Left: Are 2 Capacitors as well. Are these also supposed to be: "JANTZEN SUPERIOR Z-CAP" 5uf and 12uf and any idea max diameter? Sorry, may be elementary but from all I have read correct material is extremely important Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 @junaidot I wrote you clearly at the beginning that YOU must get a RF7 X-Over diagram from the community first , before you even start with the modification, first the theory, then the practice. I understand your enthusiasm, but such a project needs preparation. Just remove the x-over and then realize that it is more difficult, I expected. that, many make the mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 4 hours ago, MicroMara said: @junaidot I wrote you clearly at the beginning that YOU must get a RF7 X-Over diagram from the community first , before you even start with the modification, first the theory, then the practice. I understand your enthusiasm, but such a project needs preparation. Just remove the x-over and then realize that it is more difficult, I expected. that, many make the mistake. I havent started the practical: Im indeed trying to understand the schematic and what each represent very well so if someone can pls answer my question I will appreciate very much Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 10 minutes ago, junaidot said: I havent started the practical: Im indeed trying to understand the schematic and what each represent very well so if someone can pls answer my question I will appreciate very much Thx Here´s the RF7 Original x-over digramm for your further assistance , should help a lot 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 All resisitor, with origin values for the LF as well as the Hi Pass LCR ..you can use the Mundorf Resistors without any problems . The Jantzen Caps with origin values won´t fit on the board , they´re much bigger ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 ...and the Jantzen wax coil´s you want to use ..they are much much bigger , won´t fit on the board as well . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 2 minutes ago, MicroMara said: All resisitor, with origin values for the LF as well as the Hi Pass LCR ..you can use the Mundorf Resistors without any problems . The Jantzen Caps with origin values won´t fit on the borad , they´re much bigger ! Talking about Jantzen Caps, I saw that the resistors are moved to under part of board, leaving more room for caps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 2 minutes ago, MicroMara said: ...and the Jantzen wax coil´s you want to use ..they are much much bigger , won´t fit on the board as well . Unless Im not going to change the coils as suggested by Deang. What will I loss/gain changing coils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 You may have to build an external x-over as well like this example ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 2 minutes ago, junaidot said: Unless Im not going to change the coils as suggested by Deang. What will I loss/gain changing coils You have to ask Deang in this matter ..I would use the Jantzen Coils ..no doubts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 (edited) Schema: Edited November 30, 2021 by junaidot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroMara Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 1 minute ago, junaidot said: Schema: there´s nothing that i can see .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 For my RF-7 I replaced the caps utilizing the Dean G mod (Auricap for the HF and Solon for the LF as well as replaced the resistor with Mills), I kept the original inductors. I was able to shoehorn the new caps in place of the old caps, unlike my RC-7 which I had to relocate the HF section (2nd photo). I can't comment on the best cap since I didn't do a comparison, but I am pleased with the combination that I used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted December 5, 2021 Author Share Posted December 5, 2021 12 minutes ago, Southern said: For my RF-7 I replaced the caps utilizing the Dean G mod (Auricap for the HF and Solon for the LF as well as replaced the resistor with Mills), I kept the original inductors. I was able to shoehorn the new caps in place of the old caps, unlike my RC-7 which I had to relocate the HF section (2nd photo). I can't comment on the best cap since I didn't do a comparison, but I am pleased with the combination that I used. @SouthernI appreciate the detailed photos (which is on its own is quite self explicit) and the description. Its indeed in a Nutshell!! How will you describe the Result in terms of Bass and tweeters performance compared to old state? Now General Question to Others experiences: How will you compare the performance achieved when much more expensive Caps like Jantzen Superior will be used. Is the extra cost worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 6 minutes ago, junaidot said: @SouthernI appreciate the detailed photos (which is on its own is quite self explicit) and the description. Its indeed in a Nutshell!! How will you describe the Result in terms of Bass and tweeters performance compared to old state? I did the mod over 10 years ago, but from what I remember is that the the mids and highs were more open and clear. Since I use my RF-7's in my home theater (RC-7 & RS-7's) I found that the imaging was also much improved. I drive my home theater with an older Pioneer Elite receiver (140W x7) and like to listen to blu-ray concerts at concert volume levels. The bass is nice and tight (chest thumping) and not distorted. The overall sound is very balanced and when watching a blu-ray concert I feel like I am in the concert hall. The more that I turn up the volume, I feel that I am moving closer to the stage. At +10 I feel like I am on stage with the performers. My thought process for this build was to get the most improvement for the price (bang for the buck). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junaidot Posted December 5, 2021 Author Share Posted December 5, 2021 30 minutes ago, Southern said: I did the mod over 10 years ago, but from what I remember is that the the mids and highs were more open and clear. Since I use my RF-7's in my home theater (RC-7 & RS-7's) I found that the imaging was also much improved. I drive my home theater with an older Pioneer Elite receiver (140W x7) and like to listen to blu-ray concerts at concert volume levels. The bass is nice and tight (chest thumping) and not distorted. The overall sound is very balanced and when watching a blu-ray concert I feel like I am in the concert hall. The more that I turn up the volume, I feel that I am moving closer to the stage. At +10 I feel like I am on stage with the performers. My thought process for this build was to get the most improvement for the price (bang for the buck). @Deang, Of course whoever has the experience I need your help please. From what I have read so far I conclude to use JANTZEN SUPERIOR for the 2 18uf Now for the 5uf and 12uf due to size and what combines best. Which caps do you suggest? I will keep all inductors for now (as earlier suggested by Deang and now confirmed by Southern) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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