lancestorm Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 YO! Well I know that Ive seen a thread of this type before, but I am having no luck with the search. I am wondering if you guys can tell me what type of audio wire is okay to put through a wall that has insulation. Basically Im not going to be going through the insulation per say, but I will be near/touching it. I will be running wire through the wall, down to the basement alongside the insulation, across the basement ceiling, and then back up through another wall (with no insulation) in order to avoid wires in my Great Room stretching along the floor. I was thinking of picking up a audio connector plate much like that of an electrical outlet so that it blends with the room well and the wall doesnt look all hacked to pieces. I am not a big wire guy and I am not messing with expensive wires until far after I get the rest of my home theater completed. In fact, the wires I am using now are just standard audio wire (w/copper) from Home Depot and the speaks sound great to me. I was thinking of stopping there again to pick up the electrical outlet-looking audio thingamagig. Any suggestions on these plates? Also, is standard copper wire SAFE to run through the walls? I was using their 12 guage variety. If it is not okay, then I will replace the wires I currently have. I want to use the same wires throughout. Two more things. Firstly: Is there a degradation in the signal quality with using these plates? I would assume the plates would be 18-24k gold for purity, but I have not even ventured to Home Depot for this type of item. Secondly: I am on a very restricted budget. Just closed on a house yesterday and have about zero monies to spend on audio Thanks in advance guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damonrpayne Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Well, I don't know if you're looking for better than Monster Cable, but I think they make a wire that is supposedly meant for in-wall applications. I couldn't find it on their site but I swear I've seen it at local retailers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancestorm Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 Well I guess my question is whether or not regular audio wire from Home Depot would be a fire hazard. Am I looking for a particular type of wire that is different than the standard you can buy anywhere? If so, what is it in the wire that makes the standard copper wire unsafe and this other wire safe for in-wall use. Also any comments on the audio outlet things. Does Home Depot even carry such things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 For code and safety reasons, you need in-wall suitable wiring. It's not the wire, per se, that is different. It is the insulation, I believe, and it has to do with fire and all that jazz. Just check some of the home automation web sites (like www.smarthome.com) and see if they talk about or list wire for in-wall use. That'll give you the nomenclature you are looking for. Home Depot has the wall plate connectors for speakers - basically binding posts stuck through a wall plate. Also check www.partsexpress.com. DD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callmeishmael Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I think it is the CL rating that determines suitablility for in-wall installs. Look for CL3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Copper wire is not the issue. Insulation is. The idea is to minimize the spread of fire. The insulation on most speaker wires burns easily. But there is insulation rated for in-wall use that does not support combustion as well. In most locations in the U.S.A., the local electrical code requires wire used in-wall to be appropriately rated. Speaker wire is considered low voltage wiring and requires a CL2 or CL3 rating. You can find architectural speaker wire online at places like Parts Express for around $.18/ft. in 100 ft. lengths. Besides being fire resistant, the jacket is also more resistant to the kind of damaged it can incur being pulled through walls. It is also twisted pair, giving it a modicum of noise rejection that standard parallel speaker wire does not have. This is what I have in my walls. As far as wall plates go, there are several manufacturers of keystone style plates. They take snap-in connectors of various types. For speaker wiring, you have two basic choices: RCA jacks and 5-way binding posts. I used Leviton Quickport 5-way binding posts. You can also get CAT-5, BNC, S-video, optical and other connectors. Note that keystone systems from different manufacturers are not always compatible. Plan on staying with one manufacturer. The gold on audio connectors is there for show. It is too thin and too soft too last long in the contact areas. You should notice no degradation in signal if you use the same connectors I did and a bit of care. The wires in the wall screw down into the connectors for a firm fit. Tinning the ends of the wires first will ensure that the fit stays firm. I would also recommend using tinned, bare wires inserted into the binding post, or spade lugs, for the wire that connects to your speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancestorm Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 Schwooo. Thank you so much for the information! That is extremely helpful. Currently I have gold-plated dual banana plugs that feed into the back of the speaks. They are from Rat Shack. Is that bad? Oh, and another thing comes to mind. Does it matter on the back of an RF-3II which of the sets of pos/neg the wires go on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I was going to say what Malcolm said. "Does it matter on the back of an RF-3II which of the sets of pos/neg the wires go on?" Not if you are not bi-wiring and you have the jumper straps/wires in place. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffinator Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 ---------------- On 7/1/2003 9:19:47 AM damonrpayne wrote: Well, I don't know if you're looking for better than Monster Cable, but I think they make a wire that is supposedly meant for in-wall applications. I couldn't find it on their site but I swear I've seen it at local retailers. ---------------- That would be Monster XP-CI and XPHP-CI - the CL3 rated versions of their popular entry-level wire. XP is stock fine-braid 15 gauge, XPHP has the Time-Correct multiple gauge windings. Both have fire-resistant outer sleeves that also help dramatically with RFI and EMI interference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 RadioShack parts are not bad per se. The problem with banana plugs is that there is a relatively small contact area, just a small point on each leg of the plug. And the only thing holding it in contact with the jack is the spring force of the plug. The locking banana plugs may work a bit better. Spade lugs are the better because they have a larger contact area and are held by a greatest force. Bare wires, tinned or untinned, often work as well as any other method, depending on the jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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