USparc Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 Yepie, rf3iicrazy points out what the RF3 is missing. Internal bracing!! And for that matter all the reference line including the RF-7. Dont know about the heritage. The enclosure absorbs or spread out sounds that will interfere with the sound from the drivers. That is why rf3iicrazy (and others) find the RF-3s to bright or to boomy when place near a whall to get more (boomy) bass. In this way the mids are lacking and the bass missing or to boomy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 The RF-7's use window-pane braces and are veneered on both sides of the MDF. Aren't you the guy that totally wiped out the relationship between your drivers and cabinet by adding about 3 tons of internal bracing to the inside of your RF-3's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USparc Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 ---------------- On 7/17/2003 11:54:19 AM DeanG wrote: The RF-7's use window-pane braces and are veneered on both sides of the MDF. Aren't you the guy that totally wiped out the relationship between your drivers and cabinet by adding about 3 tons of internal bracing to the inside of your RF-3's? ---------------- Open your RF-7's and check out for yourself!!! I didn't wiped out anything. The loss in internal volume is well compensated with decend damping material. Try it yourself, it will make a difference!! It is well know that an enclosure must be as rigid as possible!! Tap on the enclosure of your RF-7's and you will hear it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 18, 2003 Share Posted July 18, 2003 I know what's in an RF-7. I took most of it out. Cabinet resonances can be compensated for in the crossover. I would hardly characterize the speakers in the Reference line as sounding "woody", "tubby", "bloated", or any of the other sounds one usually associates with "weak" or improper construction. Rapping on a cabinet doesn't tell you anything about how a speaker is going to sound these days -- not with all of the computer modeling and listening that's done by the good ol boys at Klipsch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USparc Posted July 19, 2003 Share Posted July 19, 2003 ---------------- On 7/18/2003 7:15:18 AM DeanG wrote: I know what's in an RF-7. I took most of it out. ---------------- You mean the xover!! Not the window pane brace??? no, no. ---------------- On 7/18/2003 7:15:18 AM DeanG wrote: Cabinet resonances can be compensated for in the crossover. ---------------- That is not the task of a crossover and would add more components which will eat up power and compromise quality. Keep the crossover as simple as possible!! Besides it would be a difficult task to do this. ---------------- On 7/18/2003 7:15:18 AM DeanG wrote: I would hardly characterize the speakers in the Reference line as sounding "woody", "tubby", "bloated", or any of the other sounds one usually associates with "weak" or improper construction. ---------------- I didnt break down the reference line like that. I only point out that there can be done some improvements. Hey, I bought 2 pairs of the RF-3s. There is just some room left for tweaking to bring them to the real thing. ---------------- On 7/18/2003 7:15:18 AM DeanG wrote: Wrapping on a cabinet doesn't tell you anything about how a speaker is going to sound these days -- not with all of the computer modeling and listening that's done by the good ol boys at Klipsch. ---------------- Yes, indeed. But the modelling is done with a certain price tag in mind. The strategy of klipsch is imho : very good drivers and nice crossovers. The enclosure is somewhat left out and indeed modelled the best way they could to prevent enclosure coloration by using large ports to reduce the stress on the cabinet. Hey, you attached another xover. Did you change something now or used better components?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 19, 2003 Share Posted July 19, 2003 No, I didn't remove my braces (which would be idiotic). I only moved the x-overs outside of the box. This is my third set of x-overs, each version has incorporated better parts. This last set is pretty well maxed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USparc Posted July 19, 2003 Share Posted July 19, 2003 Maybe I'll do the same. First shopping arround for the finest components to calculate the total cost for this upgrade. What is your opinion on separation the xover for highs and lows?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 19, 2003 Share Posted July 19, 2003 You mean physically, like as in build seperate boards for them? You can do it if you want, but I don't think it will make any difference sound wise. If you build the boards like I did, the inductors are plenty far apart, and if you keep them off line from each other you're fine. Notice I even jumpered the HF and LF parts together -- opting for the shortest signal path. It's not until you start working on this stuff that you realize how stupid concepts like birwiring are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USparc Posted July 20, 2003 Share Posted July 20, 2003 Yes, build separate boards for them. (B&W does this in there nautilus 801) I see you are not into the biwiring and separating filters for the drivers. But the statement It's not until you start working on this stuff that you realize how stupid concepts like birwiring are. is a very strong one. So enlighten us with your experience in this to clear out the biwire /not to biwire issue. Oeps, here we go again? Maybe it is better to go to the thread < Bi-wiring -- difference worth the trouble?> on the technical forum. Tell me your thoughts on my reply that explains what biwiring does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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