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Everything posted by USparc

  1. Hi imperfectcircle25, Received your message. It is however long time since I logged in to the klipsch forum. DeanG already gave you the answer. Here is a link how I rebuild it with intertechnik components: http://users.telenet.be/gerritht/Projects/XoverRF-3/XoverRF3.html For the bracing: http://users.telenet.be/gerritht/Projects/BracingRF-3/BracingRF3.html Happy tweaking.
  2. ---------------- On 4/10/2005 6:42:25 PM PYRO wrote: USparc nice setup, I had the opportunity to visit "The Grand Place" a few months ago and consume some good Belgium beers. Rob ---------------- Aha, the good belgium beers!! Saw also the atomium? They are renovating it and putting it in a new jacket. ---------------- On 4/10/2005 9:37:55 PM tkdamerica wrote: You have a nice setup. Very clean looking. I particularly like your slanted wood ceiling with your RF-3's/RC-3-- Extremely attractive and I bet it sounds killer. I run 4 towers in my HT (2 RF-7's& 2 RF-3's) as well. What do you mean by "full reloaded," RF-3's? ---------------- tkdamerica, Thks for the comments. It sounds good, although currently in upgrading fase with the new acurus amp. Hope to replace the pioneer with a good pre/pro. The acurus amp was already a big difference! Yes, indeed 4 towers. If I could the center was also a RF-3. Don't like bipoles,WDST. full reloaded is to indicate my modifications. I added internal bracing like a kind of a matrix structure inside the RF-3's and RC-3 and upgraded the complete cross-over with much better components.
  3. Cool to see so many home theaters. There are some cool setups. Very nice. Not only the ears, but also the eyes want something! Here some pics from Belgium.
  4. I have a chance to buy an Acurus A125x5 at a very good price here in Belgium. Still looking fore some more info/specs: Size/power of the transfo? Is it 1000-1200 kVa?? Elco's uF? Is it 46,000uF?? Is there a trigger at the back or not? There seems to be a label "power control input" at the back above a head screw?? Does anyone have a picture of the internal? Just like to see the layout. I have already seen one of the A200. Looks nice.
  5. ---------------- On 8/21/2003 10:10:07 AM STL wrote: --- On 8/20/2003 3:31:56 PM USparc wrote: --- On 8/20/2003 3:31:56 PM USparc wrote: Man, it will be even better then most subs. It is hard to integrate a subwoofer. I find most subwoofer to slow and boomy. For HT it is ok, but for music it is totaly different. I beg to differ! It is not hard to integrate a good subwoofer! I think you if listened to music with a true, well-designed subwoofer you would "see the light" and change your stance. you said it. A well designed subwoofer that matches your other speakers. But that aren't most subs. --- On 8/20/2003 3:31:56 PM USparc wrote: --- A crossover update and internal bracing will improve the bass on any klipsch reference speaker. You would be surprised how much sound the original crossover eats up. This comes at a prise off course. The components alone will cost you $50/speaker. Then hours of work to get it done. I don't argue that your mod would likely improve bass response, but mostly it would be tightening up the mid-bass and not adding the true low frequency impact that only a good subwoofer can supply. Aha, a good subwoofer. --- On 8/20/2003 3:31:56 PM USparc wrote: --- Besides music doesn't contain much lower frequencies then 40Hz. That generalized statement is really not true. It does depends on what kind of music you listen to, but there is a lot of music out there that truly does go down to 20Hz. --- On 8/20/2003 3:31:56 PM USparc wrote: --- However 30Hz is barely hearable, only feelable. Again that is not true. Maybe with your setup 30Hz is not audible, but with a good subwoofer most people can indeed hear 30Hz. In fact, many people can hear down to the 20Hz range -- it's down at 10Hz where things are truly no longer audible for humans. Very few people can hear down to 20Hz. It is the same with the higher freq. Can you hear 20k. Don't think so. I tested it. 28Hz tone spl measuring 80db. Start to hear something but more vibrations. 34 Hz is to my ears the lowest tone. No probs for my RF3-s. --- On 8/20/2003 3:31:56 PM USparc wrote: --- It is just an illusion that subs go lower. In most cases they will add some (a lot) db's in the 30-80Hz range to believe that they go lower or have "good" bass. I don't say that there are no good subs for music but they are at a price. Why the hasle if two floorstanders have the potential to reproduce the sound. Not it is not an illusion -- it's a fact! It can easily be shown with scientific measurements that a good subwoofer will indeed extended the frequency response of a system -- even yours. You appear to be so caught up in your mod (which might very well be a very positive one) that you refuse to accept adding a true subwoofer might even be better. And yes subwoofers do have a price, but if you are a DIYer then you can build a VERY nice for a VERY reasonible price -- if you know what you're doing (or someone who does helps you out). Believe what you want, but a subwoofer (done right) will nicely complement any set of floorstanders and make them sound even more impressive for both movies and music! You are repeating yourself. A GOOD subwoofer!!! Then there is something like a subwoofer for music and a subwoofer for HT. Some have already a switch for this. For music the sub needs to be fast and controlled to extend the speaker (then it is in fact no subwoofer anymore). For HT it has to move a lot of air to get the feeling of the impact. My KSW-12 does a nice job at this. For music no way. So a subwoofer from an HT point of view is a vibrating machine to let you FEEL the impact. Using a HT sub for music is very annoying and distracting. The bass is not controlled. But if you like boomy bass..., then turn the level some more. For music it has to be tight and controlled not vibrating your *** off. And yes I am caught up in my mods, even you would if you heard the difference. I am very satisfied with the RF-3's now. Adding a sub for just 20-28Hz range that gives just more vibrations and just occures in a few records. How can this justify the price and the hasle with subwoofers (for music)?? ----------------
  6. ---------------- On 8/20/2003 4:25:34 PM tankhokie wrote: The SVS has a phase knob that I can toy with, but will turning it effect the whole sub-spectrum of freqs? IOW, will I have to re-run the freqs for the sub again each time I move the phase? ---------------- The phase only matters when other speakers are producing the same frequency. So in your case it will only change around the cut-off frequency of 80Hz. Remeasure from 60 to 120 Hz.
  7. ---------------- On 8/20/2003 4:26:28 PM Vladi wrote: USparc, I don't agree completely with the "poor" transition of RS-3. The horns are 90° x 60° and they are at 45° to the listening position (if placed to the side), which means the listening position is covered by the horns. One would still here direct sound coming from the horns, but in addition there will be dispersed sound that creates the ambience effect. Just my opinion though... Also, from your signature I read "RF-3 fully reloaded". Have you modded the speakers? I will be very interested to know what and how. ---------------- Strange?? dispersed sound that is direct?? My point of view of surround speakers is that they are just speakers. Any ambient sound or whatever there needs to be behind or somewhat left,... is in the recording material. The movie makers are mixing the movie not the speakers. WDST speakers can enforce this but ... . Then what about SACD. There is also ambient sound in the recordings just as in movies. What is the difference?? None, it is all in the mastered recording. If you know what effects and 3d depth a 2 channel system can bring with just a CD ... . Yea, my RF-3's fully reloaded. reloaded -> adding matrix bracing structure. fully -> updating crossover to high quality components. check in odds and mods for the topics: Unleash the power of the RF-3 RF-3 crossover
  8. Looks better now. I see directly that the sub is way to high. For music anyway. That is almost 20 db difference with the calibrated 1k at 75 db. For HT it can be desirable but for music it can be to boomy. The dip at just over the 80 Hz may indicate that the RF3's are canceling out the sub at that frequency. You should try switching the polarity of the sub. For the other frequencies it is more difficult. That is just how the room sounds. You can change things and measure it over and over again till the peaks are somewhat flaten out.
  9. ---------------- On 8/20/2003 2:47:08 PM damonrpayne wrote: Isn't the transition between channels almost entirely a function of the sound processor? I don't think the wide dispertion technology in the RS-X series speakers accomplishes the effect you speak of. But that's just my opinion. ---------------- That is just a very good opinion!! IMHO WDST speakers try to create an array of speakers. Wide dispersion ... Transition will be even lost. The position of sounds and transistion is in the recording. You even notice this in just 2 channel music recordings.
  10. ---------------- On 8/19/2003 4:41:18 PM falko wrote: yes i read your mods for the rf3. Sounds great, how did you figured out the specs of the parts for the crossover ? Are your 2 woofers connected parallel or in series ? Can you mail me your schematic? Perhaps i try to add another woofer. A vintage Philips fullrange speaker in TQWT enclosure made much more deeper and more precise bass than the RB-5, but not so efficient mid bass. Perhaps you are right and the bracing can improve precision, i will try it. ---------------- The original value of each component is on the circuit board. I didn't take exactly the same but stayed close. Moved the crossover point a little higher. Yes, the woofers are in parallel. The schematics are easy. For the LF it is a 2nd order For the HF it is a 4th order. Your RB-5 will certainly benefit from this just as my RF-3's Maybe not as much in the bass but still. It is just a major improvement. This is speaking of the overal sound quality. Not even to compare. Don't change the woofer. The klipsch woofers are very good. It's the crossover that holds them back. ---------------- On 8/20/2003 12:30:56 PM STL wrote: I'm not quite understand what you are trying to say? I admit your mods might make the RF-3 sound better, but it won't even come close to being as good as a separate active subwoofer. And since this guy builds his own amps, all he needs to do is build a crossover ($25 in parts), build a good enclsoure ($25 in parts), and buy a good driver like a 12" ACI SV-12 ($110). So for a fairly modest invest, he can get much deeper and cleaner bass by using a true subwoofer. ---------------- Man, it will be even better then most subs. It is hard to integrate a subwoofer. I find most subwoofer to slow and boomy. For HT it is ok, but for music it is totaly different. A crossover update and internal bracing will improve the bass on any klipsch reference speaker. You would be surprised how much sound the original crossover eats up. This comes at a prise off course. The components alone will cost you $50/speaker. Then hours of work to get it done. If then the bass is not what he wants, he can add a dedicated sub to each speaker. But then he is building a full-range speaker. Besides music doesn't contain much lower frequencies then 40Hz. My RF-3's go as low as 28Hz measured in my room. However 30Hz is barely hearable, only feelable. It is just an illusion that subs go lower. In most cases they will add some (a lot) db's in the 30-80Hz range to believe that they go lower or have "good" bass. I don't say that there are no good subs for music but they are at a price. Why the hasle if two floorstanders have the potential to reproduce the sound. A subwoofer is for HT/sacd as a discrete channel not for music.(IMHO) ---------------- On 8/20/2003 1:01:23 PM formica wrote: 2) Another way of getting more bass from your Klipsch is trading up to a set of floor-standing models like the RF7... but this removes the fun associated with tweaking. There is also the floor-standing vs bookshelf imaging argument... but I think this may be a factor even if you tweak your existing units. --------------- The RF7 can be tweaked also.
  11. USparc

    RB-35 vs. RB-5

    Thanks BobG to clear this out. You changed my view on the new Ref series. Although I have to give them a listen first.
  12. Nice graph. Looks normal. You can't do much about the peaks. Maybe some room treatment. But man you must be deaf if you did the full frequency at that level. The normal procedure is to set the 1k at 75 db. Now you have 1k Hz at 100 db. Waaw. I see 2 majure dips starting 60-400 Hz and 2500-20000. Did you measure it with all 6 speaks operating!! You should measuring just two speakers (+sub), not all of them. They will cancel each other out or add up at some frequencies.
  13. Don't try to target the 5min. Take your time as up to 30 min. It is very easy to make another dent on the woofers with a thoughtless brutal move and a screwdrive in your hand. As BobG says you have to notice the polarity of the woofer. This is not necessary as the connectors for the - are smaller then the one for +. So no mistake can happen.
  14. Update the crossover with good quality components and add some internal bracing. Check out my posts in odds and mods. I did it with my RF-3's. No sub can be placed to that for music. Except some very $$$ subs.
  15. Ok, MCACC can help in some worse situation. It is still better to treat the room and not the sound to flatten out those peaks. Besides the pioneer has only 5 frequencies to manipulate. That is way to few to correct all the peaks in the room response. Did you measure your room response?? You will be surprised, specially in the lower frequency range 20-500Hz. I have to admit that I don't have any experience with MCACC in those receivers. Maybe they can do a pretty good job but it still is manipulating sound.
  16. Yea, the RF-3's. Tweak the hell out of them and you don't even think about subwoofers for music. For HT a sub is always wellcome because of the discrete .1 channel.
  17. Those B&W Nautili are going to need it. Nice speakers (expensive too) but difficult to drive!!
  18. Those receivers are already overkill for your speakers. Going to the integra won't solve your problem. Playing with the MCACC won't solve either. You should measure the room response. Then you can change some frequencies with peaks based on the measured room response. But this all means manipulation of the original source which always get to less sound quality. (I don't know why they throw it in. It is the same with the bass/trebble. Don't use them) You can always try to connect one of your RB-25 as center channel and see if it is better. Then you know it isn't your receiver. Maybe buy an extra RB-25 as center channel. Perfect match.
  19. Check out my topic RF-3 crossover: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=38029&sessionID={FE7C66B6-D775-477E-91E1-B5B8CDF33F6F}
  20. ---------------- On 8/17/2003 11:26:31 PM pHEnomIC69 wrote: ---------------- On 8/17/2003 11:26:31 PM pHEnomIC69 wrote: Is there any real advantage in upgrading the receiver for dolby digital and all the new sound technologies I don't know anything about receivers? ---------------- Yes. dolby digital is far better then prologic watching dvd's. ---------------- On 8/17/2003 11:26:31 PM pHEnomIC69 wrote: This may be a little bit of a stupid question but what exactly is the crossover, I've seen the word many many times and never was sure. Is it just the circuitry inside? ---------------- A crossover consist of filters that let through certain frequency range. This is necessary as a speakers has more then one driver to cover the full ear frequency range (20-20000Hz). Each driver has its working frequency range. Other frequencies might damage the driver. For a tweeter (2000-20000Hz) you need a high pass filter that bloks every frequency under the crossover point. For a woofer you need a low pass filter that bloks every frequency above the crossover point.
  21. If you really want to replace ( I wouldn't stand a dent either) just unscrew the 4 screws. Leave the speaker standing. Unscrew 3 screws and leave one at the bottom of the driver you want to replace. When you unscrew this last one hold the driver at the bottom so it won't come out. When the screw is out you can gently release the woofer. The bottom of the woofer will come out first because of the weigth of the magnet. That is why you need to leave one screw at the bottom. A more complex way but maybe better. (Less risky) Lay down the speaker on its back. Unscrew the woofer. Unscrew the horn. Take out the horn by grabbing it inside. Now through the holl of the horn you can push the woofer up with one hand so it will come out.
  22. Once unscrewed you need to disconnect the woofer cables and the led cable, so the connection pannel is totaly free. Here is a picture of the transfo. I circled the bolts to tighten. You will see that the transfo is on rubber feeds just under the bolts. Don't screw them totaly flat.
  23. ---------------- On 8/17/2003 9:44:59 AM Egil wrote: It's from the port. Do you think it would be easy for me to fix the problem myself? (I have no more warranty if I do?) ---------------- No, it is very easy. Just unscrew the connection pannel. Tighten the screws holding the transformer. It depends on the net your on like bobg says. If the net has a lot of harmonics due to reductant polution then the transformer will still make noise. You can buy a filter for this that cleans up the incomming ac power.
  24. ---------------- On 8/15/2003 7:52:35 PM MrMcGoo wrote: It has taken me 2 years to realize that 80 Hz is better than 50 Hz for a crossover, and that the RF-7s should be set to small just like some of the "experts" have recommended all along. For me, this gives the tightest bass. ---------------- If you get tighter bass by setting RF-7's to small and probably using a sub then this is an indication that your receiver isn't able to drive the RF-7 at lower frequencies!!!! If this is the case then indeed a crossover of 80 Hz will be better as the amp will be more relieved. Don't be fooled by this small/large thing. If a speaker is a full range speaker then set it to large. small = when speaker can't handle lower freq. not full range large = full range Moreover if you set speakers to small the receiver has to do signal processing which will result in less soundquality.
  25. I agree with marksdad. Still if all speakers set to large the receiver has to do a lot more work. Sometimes (I don't know in this case) setting to small will result in better sound at higher volumes. Just check with all 5 speakers driven how the receiver behaves when raising the volume up till your highest listening volume. If it sounds good (not stressy, distorted) and the lower freq are still there you are ok.
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