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RB-35 Setting


swissy

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Yamaha recommends setting mains to small if their driver is 6" or less. However, the RB-35 has an 8" driver. Which should I use, large or small setting.

Actually, I am choosing between the RF-25 and the RB-35. The price difference is enough that I am having a hard time getting justification for the RF-25. The WAF is sticking its nose in. However, if I can get good reproduction from the RB-35, I don't mind saving the cash.

This is for 90% HT.

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I would set the crossover to 80hz or so, but yeah they should be fine being set to "large" according to klipsch. I set all my speakers to large with an 80hz global crossover.

In deciding between the bookshelf and larger speakers, I would look at the efficiency rating of each. You will need more power to drive the bookshelves enough to have a room full of sound.

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I would do the exact opposite: set them all to small.

When set to large the crossover is ignored and the only thing goingto the sub is LFE (unless you specifically set in your reciever to use LFE+Main, but I'll get to that). While the Klipsch speakers ahve internal x-overs to ensure they don't recieve anything the drivers can't handle, it doesn't mean everything within that range is done effortlessly. Technically the 5 surround channels can go as low as 35hz or so, so if the speakers in question arn't true full range speakers your going to have a good "hole" in your sound range.

The sad truth is, contrary to the advertized range, most bookshelves start rolling off as high as 100hz unless they cost over $1k a pair. Heck the RB-75 start rolling off hard at 60hz. So the reality is, anytime someone sends a sound lower than 60hz and the speakers is set to large, it just comes out quieter than it should. At the lowest ends of the roll off will have an audiable strain. Why would you want boomy, straining sound if you can avoid it?

The tempting answer is to then go to LFE+Main so you "use the full range of your speaker", but I would also avoid that as at the lower ends of the bookshelves range they'll add little but sloppy boom as they strain to keep up.

Turn on the LFE without Main support, and suddenly all low hz sounds get sent to the sub before they venture too deep into the bookshelves "roll-off zone" so response stays tight and pure. It's non-localizable anyway unless your speakers/sub are unusually close. It sounds too conservative but in the end I prefer to call it effortless. Why "make your speakers drive thier full range" if at thier limits the sound is no longer pure?

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I think this thread has convinced me to buy the RF-25. I assume these can be set to large?

I do have what I would consider a nice DIY sub. It is an Adire DPL12 in a 54L box and I am making a vented 85L box to see how I like that. At any rate, it sent out a good range and dB level.

I guess what you are saying is that the room would be better served if the RC,RS-25 set to small. BTW, I already had the RS & RC planned that way. The RB and RF is all that is left to decide on.

At any rate, can the RF-25 be set to large? If not, I would probably be better served by saving a few bucks and getting the RB-35.

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I think I would leave the fronts set to large, unless you get overzealous with the volume control. In that case, then set them to small, and you won't have to worry about overtaxing them. For most movies, you won't need that much power to the mains and center for dolby reference levels. ( 105 db ) Depending on where you sit, and such, you probably need 40 - 50 watts for the maximum levels. On the average, your power levels for dialog, should be 2-3 watts. Even though they start rolling off higher, you shouldn't have too much trouble unless they try reproducing 35 hz signals at high volumes. If you find you don't like it, then set to small. It really is your preference, so try and see what you like.

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