Grand11

No offense, but that doesn't make sense. A DVI cable is a digital transmition meaning no signal degrading; you simply get either a perfect picture or none. A component cable, on the otherhand, is analog and _can_ degrade over a distance. It would seem to me that DVI would be the sure choice over longer distances, not Component. But then the real advantage to digital interfaces is the future compatiblity. Next gen HD-DVD players are planning to send HD content over digital feeds only for encryption and anti-piracy reasons. If you want this setup to last I'd definately suggest putting some kind of digital feed in the run as a must.

In addition to the above, you should also note that the LFE channels is designated to cover a range from 20hz-120hz. So even if the crossover on the reciever/pre-amp is set to 40hz you're still going to get information well above that being sent to the subwoofer, depending on how it was mixed on the DVD. VERY few DVD tracks have no LFE recorded. So if you use a highpass setting on your sub, even though it does technically rolloff, by tuning it down you risk cutting out some of the sound information (assuming you don't set LFE+Main). Technically you should only ever be using the crossover on one of the devices, not both, otherwise that risk will always exist. Use the reciever's if you plan on feeding the sub via LFE, or feed the mains through your sub and use it's highpass. Don't set both.

One of the key differences between using any setup disc vs. the tone in the receiver is the type of tone you're getting. When you do a test tone on your reciever you're essentially getting white noise; all the drivers are pumping out noise. Basically the loudest tone of you speaker is going to be what's measured by the SPL meter. When you use the DVD test tones, they actually use tones at specific hertz. Anyone who's seen speaker measurements in a review knows that the db output of a speaker is different at various hz and not perfectly flat. While some people won't ever care or find any value in this point, it can be very important to those who use equalizers, because it allows them to fine tune the volume across the entire audiable spectrum, instead of jsut matching the loudest hz of each speaker in a white noise test. Of course, alot of that is going the way of the dinosaurs anyway. Recievers are starting to have auto-calibration mics with built in eq adjustment, so it's just a matter of time before this whole notion of sitting in a room with an SPL meter and tuning your EQ will simply be done with.

-------- I've lost the link at the moment, but I still defer to the chief designer for McIntosh, who did several very well controlled blind tests regarding wiring. Their results showed that in blind A/B tests, no difference was found between adequatly sized "zip cord" and high end speaker cables. -------- For those currious http://home.earthlink.net/~rogerr7/wire.htm

---------------- See, that's what I get for listening to the rumourmill. Sony doesn't have a standalone Blu-Ray yet - only PC-based burners. Samsung is the only company that I can definitely say has an HD DVD player out. ---------------- Only Samsung player I'm aware of upconverts. THere are no HD-DVD players on the market yet as far as I know ... otherwise I think we'd be hearing about new HD-DVD tiltles ....

You're still ignoring the physics. I can get more electrons down 350 fine strands of copper with less resistance than you can with 5 thick ones. I have more total surface area. That's the reality of electron flow. Actually you're making a big assumption when you say that strandard wire will supply more surface area: that the wire is bare with no connectors and being fit into cheep contact clips. Remember the only point where more surface area matters is the point of contact between the wire and the component. Electrons flow quite easily through solid copper as quantum physics states it's 90% empty space anyway. Spend a couple dollars and put some banana plugs or spade lugs on the end and now your advantage is gone. A Banana plug will contact across a large surface area, and when crimped down also applies pressure to a large surface area of the cable. Heck, with interconnect cable this is strictly required. So back to the lamp cable analogy: If I drop 50 cents into some spade lugs to increase the surface area, where's the advantage?

^Vast majority of the "percieved difference" when switching to new cable is that the ends of your old cable have oxidized or worn. This is especially true with bare wire. That build up will effect current transfer, and when you switch to new wire: BAM! Clean connections and a sudden improvement. The sad truth is that you could have gotten the sound improvment for free with a little work. On bare wire, just trim the end then strip out some fresh copper. On a more elaborate cable with a gold-tip connector, grab the wife's jewlery polish and give it a good shine. A quick clean-up will make any old cable sound like new all over again.

Flase claim. I saw all three movies in IMax. Keep in mind that these are not IMax films; they are not using the I-Max screen ratio nor optimized for it's sound setup (which is unique ot those lines of theaters), it's merely the standard movie being played on a really, REALLY big screen, usually the best speakers in the theater. I've been watching big movies in I-Max for years now (The owner ofthe Irvine Spectrum constantly shows movies on the IMAX if it's popular enough), but it must just be recently catching on. I say this because RotK was the first time the movie started with a disclaimer saying "this is not an IMAX film".

I noticed you said you were considering RB-35 for the surround back when you got 7.1 later, I'd suggest you match your sides and get two more RS-35. First reason: when watching 5.1 movies the surround channel will be matrixed into both surround and surround/back speakers; having a perfect match will get you a better imaing effect which will be important sense the speakerswill always run this way. Second reason: According to blind tests done by Home THeater Magazine, the resulting sound and imaging was _better_ than directs according to everyone involved in the tests. Here's the link: http://www.hometheatermag.com/loudspeakers/25/index.html

No store carries SVS, that's the catch. They're a direct only company, meaning you'll only be able to buy online or over the phone. Only way to audition one is to to find someone in your area who has one. Now SVS does have a 45 day money back guarantee as well. Only thing they dont refund is shipping, so you'd be out $50 or so. So if you got one on a blind buy and decided you couldn't stand it, you could return it without too much hassle. I went ahead with the "blind buy" on my sub, and don't regret it for a moment. Just make sure you have a good line conditioner; The SV subs use two prong AC plugs to avoid ground-loop hum but in turn it makes them very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. Considering you likely have a reciever, DVD player, etc. all plugged into the same outlet, this will really effect sound quality.

Yeah, but shelling out another $1000 just for video conversion? Why not get a decent video switcher for less than half the price and accomplish the same thing? It's your money so it's your decision ultimately, but personally I find buying a revision of your existing product for one or two little features when the majority of it will preform identically to be a wasted investment. Save and step up to a processor instead; Use the 5.1 audio input and "direct mode" on the reciver to make it work as an amp then get all your new video inputs _plus_ better audio processing in one buy. THen you can phase your Denon out completely later with a stand alone amp.

You guys are forgetting the real issue: it has nothing to do with if the image is better; it has to do with settings up HT's so they can encrypt video feeds to stem piracy further. The reason all TVs are getting DVI connectors dispite the lack of DVI based DVD players is because it is currently planned that the next generation of DVDs (HD-DVDs) will _require_ DVI output in order to display. DVI specifications include HDCP encryption by Intel to make recording/taping impossible. OK, maybe not impossible, but the same level of security that we use with PGP encryption and Credit Card verification online: Very difficult to break. You don't need to look any further than current DVD players with DVI connectors: none of them will scale the DVD image over the component connector; you have to use the DVI connector for the scaling to work. Otherwise, just as current generation DVD players all have progressive scan, we should be seeing all DVD players scaling standard 480p to 1080i by now ... yet we don't. Oh well, the few ruining things for the many, it seems.

^Yup, he (Ithink it's one guy's personal buisness) offers full warranty to combat the fact that he can't get authorized. I personally had zero problems with the company, they even allowed me to make a last minute change to my order and didn't charge a re-stock fee.

That Parasound A52 looks rather nice as well. Very good suggestion. How do you feel it compares to what's listed above (Lexicon and Sunfire)?

Appreciate the suggestion, but I'm generally not into tube amps. They tend to sound different after they warm up, and arn't nearly as tight as solid state. I should have clarified that preference as well, sorry.