Olaf Posted June 30, 2001 Share Posted June 30, 2001 I listened to an Onkyo TX-8511 yesterday and I would like to buy it but it has a problem. How can I fit bi-wire 12 Gauge cables into those stupid little push terminals? There is not enough space in the terminal to hook two cables. Is there a way I can bi-wire it? Is there such a thing as a Y shaped pin-connector? I've always figured out ways to solve these types of problems,but this one has me stumped!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BobG Posted June 30, 2001 Share Posted June 30, 2001 If the Onkyo has spring loaded connectors for the speaker wire it's going to be a bit difficult. You will have to fabricate some kind of Y splitter to accept the heavy dual 12 g. and then reduce it to whatever the largest wire the speaker connectors will accept. You may want to use banana connectors to accept the heavy wire then stack a second banana with the lighter wire leading from it into the receiver. Probably negate the benefit of bi-wire in the first place. I suggest avoiding the hard pins as they provide minimal contact surface with the metal connectors in the receiver. Kind of like the edge of a knife against a hard surface. No give in either so the contact is at best a line and at worst a single point. Better to use bare wire which the spring loaded connectors can deform, offering more surface area for signal flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted June 30, 2001 Share Posted June 30, 2001 Does your Onkyo have "A" and "B" speaker outs for the speakers you want to bi-wire? If so, put one wire in each and set the selector to "A+B" John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted June 30, 2001 Share Posted June 30, 2001 u may wanna check out monster www.monstercable.com w/ their monsterlock flextips - part of their screw-on connector line. though the tips were still too big for the holes in my old kenwood's spring clips & the monsterlock hard pins wouldn't make a connection. newer amp's holes should be big enough though for the flextips. also went w/ 2 10ft mcx biwire cables for around $70 @ www.jandr.com ------------------ Klipsch KLF 30 (front), KLF C-7, Cornwall I (rear) Velodyne HGS-18 sub woofer Monsterbass 400 sub interconnect & Monster CX-2 biwire & Z-12 cable Marantz SR-8000 receiver Sony DVP-C650D 5-disk cd/dvd player Sony Trinitron 27" stereo tv Toshiba hi-fi stereo vcr Technics dual cassette deck Scientific Atlanta Explorer 2000 digital cable box Boa's Listenin Lounge: Klipsch RF-3 (front), RC-3, cheap little Technics (rear) Monster MCX Biwires Sony STR-DE935 a/v receiver Kenwood KR-9600 AM/FM stereo receiver (vintage 1975) Russound AB-2 receiver switch to RF-3 Teac PD-D1200 5-disk cd changer Technics SL-1950 turntable/AT LS500 cartridge Sega Genesis game player Sub: None yet rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olaf Posted July 1, 2001 Author Share Posted July 1, 2001 Thanks for advice folks. BobG Here's and idea I came up with,but I don't know if it will work. I have a Pioneer A/V reciever that I use for my HT. It has the same type of terminals so I was able to experiment. The 12 gauge wire fits into the hole but with some difficulty but it can be done. Do you think it would be feasible to perhaps splice the other cable onto the main one going to the terminal and then solder it for a secure connection? John, I thought of that option too,but it's my understanding that using both A and B causes extra stress on the amp and may cause overheating and thermal breakdown. I think it also reduces the power of the amp. I don't know if that applies if you do it in a bi-wire fashion on one set of speakers though Boa I'm going to check out the flextips. I looked on the site but couldn't find them. I'll look again because I'm sure they're on there somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 1, 2001 Share Posted July 1, 2001 Olaf, A+B powering 2 pair of speakers MIGHT cause problems for SOME amps. Bi-wiring using A+B will be exactly like bi-wiring with A alone. Properly done (no shorts), bi-wiring will not change the power the amp produces, the impedance it sees, or cause any harm at all. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boa12 Posted July 1, 2001 Share Posted July 1, 2001 olaf, i couldn't find those flextips on their site either. just the banana & hard pins(which may be ok too-work fine on my russound box with screw down holes but not on the old ken's spring clips). but circuit city did have the flex though they only come in one size about no thicker than a single 12ga. strand. may wanna call around 1st. & you'll need the monster cables w/ monsterlocks to screw 'em. for my main sys, the (monster) dealer custom made my cx-2 biwire cables (about $70 for 2-15ft. cables) & they could also put on any connection i needed though they don't work w/ those monsterlocks/flextips. john's suggestion should work fine. each connection would be above 8ohms impedance & shouldn't put anymore load on the amp than running 4 8ohm speaks on a+b. in fact it should be far less of a load to each connection than doing that. ------------------ Klipsch KLF 30 (front), KLF C-7, Cornwall I (rear) Velodyne HGS-18 sub woofer Monsterbass 400 sub interconnect & Monster CX-2 biwire & Z-12 cable Marantz SR-8000 receiver Sony DVP-C650D 5-disk cd/dvd player Sony Trinitron 27" stereo tv Toshiba hi-fi stereo vcr Technics dual cassette deck Scientific Atlanta Explorer 2000 digital cable box Boa's Listenin Lounge: Klipsch RF-3 (front), RC-3, cheap little Technics (rear) Monster MCX Biwires Sony STR-DE935 a/v receiver Kenwood KR-9600 AM/FM stereo receiver (vintage 1975) Russound AB-2 receiver switch to RF-3 Teac PD-D1200 5-disk cd changer Technics SL-1950 turntable/AT LS500 cartridge Sega Genesis game player Sub: None yet rock on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacKlipsch Posted July 1, 2001 Share Posted July 1, 2001 Ok....Here's the deal....Take your 12 ga speaker wire....bear off about 1 inch from the insulation...get a vise or a large hammer and smash the crap out of it....voila....12 ga wire in a 14 ga size.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweet Spot Posted July 1, 2001 Share Posted July 1, 2001 Mac, This is solid advice. The fancy, shamnsy, "high end" trinket pedelers would prefer you buy their $100+ connectors. You however left out the final 2 steps. (Guess you figured folks would figure out for themselves) For those who didn't, once you have smashed the wire flat you will need to trim the newly flattened wire to the proper width. Use a good sharp pair of wire cutters for this. Lastly, use a dab of super glue to attach to your connector. Solder is a hassle, and makes that carcinogenic smoke. ------------------ Get your butt out of my chair!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacKlipsch Posted July 1, 2001 Share Posted July 1, 2001 Yeah....and if you want to take the time, you can run the whole length of the stranded wire thru the vise and upgrade your old stranded cable to solid core....save yourself a boatload of money too..... This message has been edited by MacKlipsch on 07-01-2001 at 05:02 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted July 1, 2001 Share Posted July 1, 2001 >> Lastly, use a dab of super glue to attach to your connector. Solder is a hassle << Gee, I didn't think super glue conducted electriciy.Just add a 16ga pigtail. http://www.tnt-audio.com/gif/star.jpg http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/triple_t_e.html these should give you some ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacKlipsch Posted July 1, 2001 Share Posted July 1, 2001 This is true, but....what you lose in connectivity, you gain in convenience....Locktite works better than Super Glue and sets up faster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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