formica Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Nope, no additional legs... WYSIWYG... it has the same toe-kick and front grille detail as my cornwalls. It was also finished using the same stain. I don't see any problems combining MDF and 1/4" veneer plywood... but using MDF and gluing on regular veneer may be easier and produce prettier results. I couldn't go this route because I wanted the exposed plywood edges to match my decorator Heresys and Cornwalls, and I had access to Baltic birch. It proved more difficult than appling a veneer because substrate is the finished product, therefore there is no margin for error. Are you going with sealed? The difference between 1000W and 700W isn't that big, esp if you go with a sealed unit. Just keep the amp below clipping... Later... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Rex Posted August 2, 2004 Author Share Posted August 2, 2004 ---------------- On 8/2/2004 3:28:05 PM formica wrote: Nope, no additional legs... WYSIWYG... it has the same toe-kick and front grille detail as my cornwalls. It was also finished using the same stain. I don't see any problems combining MDF and 1/4" veneer plywood... but using MDF and gluing on regular veneer may be easier and produce prettier results. I couldn't go this route because I wanted the exposed plywood edges to match my decorator Heresys and Cornwalls, and I had access to Baltic birch. It proved more difficult than appling a veneer because substrate is the finished product, therefore there is no margin for error. Are you going with sealed? The difference between 1000W and 700W isn't that big, esp if you go with a sealed unit. Just keep the amp below clipping... Later... Rob ---------------- For some reason I read your amp as a 200 watt amp instead of a 700 watt amp... whoops... I want a ported sub for the higher SPL, dspite the fact that I will need a larger box. Although I like the veneer on a store bought speaker, if I am making it I want to put my choice of stain/varnish on the finished product. Of course, I could still change my mind and go with a regular veneer since I probably won't have this finished for a few months. I don't know much about "clipping" yet but I am sure I will find out more about it when I get closer to getting started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Rob, you are just all over me today! Well, I'll stand by what I say assuming that the subwoofers in question are sitting on the floor with no walls close to them. In such a case, the floor-firing one may have the efficiency edge if all other things are equal based on the cabinet design alone. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 Has anyone done any experiments on downward-firing sub cabinets on thickly carpeted floors? I am missing the 'floor shock' I used to get in my hardwood floored LR, current home has very thick carpet and pad. I've tried upping the reflectivity by placing the sub on a 3/4" plywood scrap, which seems to increase the reflectivity of the upper ranges, but I just can't get the sub to activate the floor. Would floor 'spikes' under the sub feet help to couple the sub to the room? Or would this really be desirable? I'm useing a KSW15 with Cornwalls and it's really just not enough anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Rex Posted August 16, 2004 Author Share Posted August 16, 2004 ---------------- On 8/16/2004 2:03:27 AM colterphoto1 wrote: Has anyone done any experiments on downward-firing sub cabinets on thickly carpeted floors? I am missing the 'floor shock' I used to get in my hardwood floored LR, current home has very thick carpet and pad. I've tried upping the reflectivity by placing the sub on a 3/4" plywood scrap, which seems to increase the reflectivity of the upper ranges, but I just can't get the sub to activate the floor. Would floor 'spikes' under the sub feet help to couple the sub to the room? Or would this really be desirable? I'm useing a KSW15 with Cornwalls and it's really just not enough anymore. ---------------- I was just reading on a floorstanding speaker where they said putting it on floor spikes would enhance the bass. I would bet you put your subwoofer on spikes and you would get better feeling from your subwoofer. The spikes seems to concentrate the vibrations past the carpet and into your floor. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabez Scratch Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 ---------------- On 7/26/2004 4:35:09 PM gcoker wrote: Definitly front firing. With carpeting in the living room I do not want anything absorbing the impact of explosions. ---------------- That's interesting re: carpet absorbing sound on downward firing subs. I've always wondered if that really becomes a drawback on downward firing subs b/c my sub fires downward and rests on a carpet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 If you put a piece of plywood or equiv. underneath the down-firing woofer, you will suffer less absorbtion from carpeting due to the reflectivity provided by the wood panel. It will then be absorbed after leaving the panel about the same rate as a front-firing sub. The strong of heart may actually want to conisder building a platform-like "stand" for the down-firing sub, using a 3/4" ply platform and including floor spikes, etc. for maximum effect. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougdrake Posted August 16, 2004 Share Posted August 16, 2004 I wonder - is the "slam" you felt earlier actually vibration from the subwoofer itself being transmitted through your wood floor which is now being insulated by the carpeting, rather than the audio waves themselves causing the slam you are missing? If so, then I would guess coupling them to the floor with spikes would transfer that vibration.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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